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talonXracer
04-20-2008, 02:07 AM
The rotor in the IAC can sieze and cause a wide range of issues. If it siezes in a open position, it will act like a vacuum leak. If it siezes in a closed position, the engine will want to die at idle and will require the TB butterfly be slightly open to run.

The rotor can sieze-up rather easily, especially when you have a aftermarket intake and/or disable the TB heater, due to condensation forming in the IAC's internal passageway.

So take a Dremel and cut slots in the 5pointed tamperproof screws retaining the IAC to the bottom of the TB and remove them with a straightslot screwdriver. Now take that same Dremel and slot the screws retaining the electrical portion to the rotor and passageway and seperate the two parts like this,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_0612.jpg

You can see the carbon and dirt deposits in the passageway in this pic.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_0613.jpg

Now clean the passageway with a brake cleaner and toothbrush. Drain all the cleaner and put the IAC passageway submerged in penetrating oil for a few hours.

Now take a drill and some spare vacuum/fuel tubing, a piece of a bic pen and spin that rotor. Try to leave some oil in the passageway for lubrication, but watch out the oil will be thrown around everywheres if you are not carefull.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_0654.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_0655.jpg


IF AT THIS POINT the rotor does not spin fairly freely, the IAC will need to be replaced. Eventually the rotor will sieze again, but adding a little light oil into the IAC port in the bottom of the TB at your oil change time and before storage will stave this off for awhile.

william
04-20-2008, 10:45 AM
awesome! great pics

az-epdrvr
04-20-2008, 10:46 AM
good fyi

Chazwick05
04-20-2008, 10:57 AM
:thumbu: great info.

oneglory
06-01-2008, 09:33 PM
am I correct in assuming you need to take the TB off to do this?

MR.Pizza
06-01-2008, 10:17 PM
Great post, the drill and vac tube method is genius.

Ep3 No.2
06-17-2008, 12:05 AM
im bumping this up cause im going to do this tomorrow.

xanderc
06-21-2008, 09:55 AM
bump for this. just finished doing this and now she's back to normal...i had no problems what so ever:mbiggrin:

dragon208
06-21-2008, 10:00 AM
great FYI!!!

platano25
07-12-2008, 02:23 PM
Did u have to replace the TB gasket or was it fine?

03Si757
08-28-2008, 01:22 PM
Ima bump this back up, Should be a sticky, was a bytch to find with that half azz search thingy :gheywa:

I just did this and it was a lot easier then I thought, and make sure you got a dremel handy because you may need it for the philips head screws that hold the IACV onto the throttle body. But man it idles so much better and when i let off the gas my RPM's don't drop to 200 rpm's and then slowly raise back up to 600 rpm's at a stop.

Ba82Ep3
08-30-2008, 07:43 AM
Yeah the search feature sucked for this DIY. I see you have some allen bolts in the pic Doug. Looks like you replaced the slotted OEM bolts im assuming? Any info on what size/pitch they are?

I just installed the PRC and now my IAC is acting up. Idle is up to 1100 at times... and rarely dropping to normal after the car warms up. I DIDNT install a new TB gasket (it wasnt torn or damaged in any way, the TB just popped off the PRB with gasket intact)... so im thinking i probably have a slight vacuum leak there. It didnt do it at first, so its probably just popped up because of a few heating cycles.

03Si757
08-30-2008, 09:11 AM
Yeah the search feature sucked for this DIY. I see you have some allen bolts in the pic Doug. Looks like you replaced the slotted OEM bolts im assuming? Any info on what size/pitch they are?

I just installed the PRC and now my IAC is acting up. Idle is up to 1100 at times... and rarely dropping to normal after the car warms up. I DIDNT install a new TB gasket (it wasnt torn or damaged in any way, the TB just popped off the PRB with gasket intact)... so im thinking i probably have a slight vacuum leak there. It didnt do it at first, so its probably just popped up because of a few heating cycles.

So did you get that little issue worked out?

Ba82Ep3
08-30-2008, 09:15 AM
Nope havent been outside yet. LOL I heard it start raining last night so i didnt even try to get started on it. Once the wife gets back with the FG ill be able to run and pickup some new fasteners. I HATE flathead screws as much as asparagus coated in castor oil. Call me anal but IDK. haha :tehehe:

SpAdZ
08-30-2008, 09:49 AM
one step that i would add to this (since you do need to take off your tb to do this) is once you get everything back together and the coolant lines on dont forget to run the car for a little with the rad cap off so that you can get the bubbles out from when you took the lines off the iac

03Si757
08-30-2008, 10:52 AM
Nope havent been outside yet. LOL I heard it start raining last night so i didnt even try to get started on it. Once the wife gets back with the FG ill be able to run and pickup some new fasteners. I HATE flathead screws as much as asparagus coated in castor oil. Call me anal but IDK. haha :tehehe:

Did you just say you like Anal.... LOL.... Get that shyt fixed man. And my bad for Jinxing you! Lemme know if anything is goin on tonight.

talonXracer
08-30-2008, 10:55 AM
I HATE flathead screws as much as asparagus coated in castor oil. Call me anal but IDK. haha :tehehe:


:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Usually for these smaller size screws and bolts I buy a bunch of long screws at a time. I then use a cutter and grinder to "fab" shorter ones, that way I always have the right length for the job. I go to a actual fastner wharehouse and there is a far wider choice. I prefer a SS allen screws for the TB area, cleans it up and wont corrode down the road.

Ba82Ep3
09-02-2008, 05:47 PM
:rofl::rofl::rofl:

heh :mwink:

Yeah i have a ton of 3mm and smaller from all of my R/C crap. Unfortunately the screws the IACV needs are m4 and m5... so nothing i had fit!! I found some at Lowes using a 7 and 8 mm socket for refitting. It will have to do for now. Im sure i will have to take it off sometime in the future, and hopefully i can source me some nice anoe'd Ti fasteners. Id eventually like to do them throughout the engine bay on all unstressed applications.

:mcool:

talonXracer
09-02-2008, 06:08 PM
mcmaster-carr for your hardware

Ba82Ep3
09-03-2008, 09:19 PM
mcmaster-carr for your hardware

Ill look into them for sure!

Also... there is something to be said of Honda's over engineering of the TB gasket. I have never, in my life, cussed as much while working on something so inconsequential as i did while removing that damned gasket. I ended up taking the TB all apart except the TPS sensor (if i knew how to set it i would have drilled them damn rivets out in a heartbeat). I ended up wet sanding the gasket area of the TB after gasket removal to clean up any marks i made during the intrusive event.

Halfway through this debacle i seriously considered ordering a new TB just to call it a day. I finally got mine fixed, the IACV cleaned and spinnin like Marylin Monroe over a hot street vent. Even though i removed the cable bracket w/o changing the cables adjustments... i still needed to adjust the throttle and cruise cables once everything was put back together.

With that said... THIS IS WORTH THE WORK! My EP now idles smooth as hell... watching the RPM's on KPro they stay hella stable within +/-50rpm of 800.

Anyone have a spare TB so i can send mine off to Maxbore? :mangel:

03Si757
09-03-2008, 09:25 PM
Ill look into them for sure!

Also... there is something to be said of Honda's over engineering of the TB gasket. I have never, in my life, cussed as much while working on something so inconsequential as i did while removing that damned gasket. I ended up taking the TB all apart except the TPS sensor (if i knew how to set it i would have drilled them damn rivets out in a heartbeat). I ended up wet sanding the gasket area of the TB after gasket removal to clean up any marks i made during the intrusive event.

Halfway through this debacle i seriously considered ordering a new TB just to call it a day. I finally got mine fixed, the IACV cleaned and spinnin like Marylin Monroe over a hot street vent. Even though i removed the cable bracket w/o changing the cables adjustments... i still needed to adjust the throttle and cruise cables once everything was put back together.

With that said... THIS IS WORTH THE WORK! My EP now idles smooth as hell... watching the RPM's on KPro they stay hella stable within +/-50rpm of 800.

Anyone have a spare TB so i can send mine off to Maxbore? :mangel:

Yuck man, ya i was playin with the gasket a little the day i did mine and that thing looks like its built into the TB. Glad you got it fixed though. And sorry i played like shyt in COD4 earlyer, i suk like marylin monroe over a hot street vent :gheyw:

hondacur
09-08-2008, 11:05 AM
I am not trying to thread jack but my question is related....

How do you remove the damn screws that hold the iacv to the throttle body? I can't get them out and am afraid of stripping the heads. Any help from anyone who has removed them would be appreciated.

thanks

03Si757
09-08-2008, 11:22 AM
I am not trying to thread jack but my question is related....

How do you remove the damn screws that hold the iacv to the throttle body? I can't get them out and am afraid of stripping the heads. Any help from anyone who has removed them would be appreciated.

thanks

I removed one of them the same was as removing the IACV screws, just use a dremel and cut a flat head slot into it. Id plan on replacing them later on if you plan to do this in the futur. If not, it wont hurt.

hondacur
09-08-2008, 12:14 PM
Alright I will give that a try.

Thanks

japarossa
03-31-2010, 08:12 PM
Great DIY worked for me

SUSHI_NE1
06-04-2010, 08:59 PM
I've been told this is the problem with my Engine.... so I baught a dremmel and will be trying this tomorrow.

talonXracer
06-05-2010, 05:29 AM
Now remember that eventually cleaning will no longer be able to overcome the corrosion damage to the bearings and it will need to be replaced.

oneglory
06-05-2010, 06:32 AM
Yes, mine was too far gone to clean and just needed to be replaced.

skoo74
06-20-2010, 10:19 PM
My engine's starting to shut off again.. i think it's about time to get a new one as well...

talonXracer
06-21-2010, 09:59 AM
I have started to add a drop or two of light oil into the IAC port of the TB if the car will sit for a week or more during humid weather.

02_epdriver
06-21-2010, 11:45 PM
cleaning didnt work for me so I bought a new one and received it yesterday and will install this weekend when I do my coolant flush.

talonXracer
06-22-2010, 06:24 AM
I have had the heater section disconnected for years now, never had an issue all the way down to -10 degrees F as a DD.

SUSHI_NE1
06-22-2010, 04:15 PM
I Just got mines today... CANT WAIT to get it in after work and reset the idle. $258 was a lot for this little part though. :-(

02_epdriver
06-23-2010, 09:41 AM
I Just got mines today... CANT WAIT to get it in after work and reset the idle. $258 was a lot for this little part though. :-(

$258.00 that is way too much. Are you going to your local stealer? Online they go for about 160.00

SUSHI_NE1
06-23-2010, 10:22 AM
HAHA!... Yeah... I've seen that, but I needed one ASAP before something worse happened to my car. Honda had it in QUICK... Car is running excellent now. But Im still haveing an Idle problem where it stays up at 1,500 and wont go down. I think I need another idle reset. I did it twice yestarday and both times it got better and better, "Third times a charm" as they say. AND WHO ARE "THEY".... ???? LOL

02_epdriver
06-23-2010, 12:32 PM
HAHA!... Yeah... I've seen that, but I needed one ASAP before something worse happened to my car. Honda had it in QUICK... Car is running excellent now. But Im still haveing an Idle problem where it stays up at 1,500 and wont go down. I think I need another idle reset. I did it twice yestarday and both times it got better and better, "Third times a charm" as they say. AND WHO ARE "THEY".... ???? LOL

Really I want to meet these people, if they are people. I'm putting mine in this weekend, cant wait to see if it helps the idle.

oneglory
06-23-2010, 12:42 PM
did you do the proper idle relearn procedure?

SUSHI_NE1
06-23-2010, 03:21 PM
did you do the proper idle relearn procedure?


i did.... Held the gas down at 3k untill fans come on, then let it sit for 5 minutes.

That sound about right?

talonXracer
06-23-2010, 05:34 PM
The proper procedure is to get the engine to operating temp, reset the ECU and keep the RPM's to 3K for 3 Minutes time, adding any time the fans are on to the three minutes.

bchaney
07-27-2010, 10:07 AM
I might pick up a set of these if I'm gonna have to be cleaning this out as often as you say.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Point-Tamper-Proof-Piece/dp/B002P4YCGM

evanr821
12-01-2010, 07:35 PM
Did this today. Awesome DIY writeup and not too hard at all. Took about 2 hours to take it all apart and clean it.... bout 20 min to put it all back together. Idle is back to normal and car runs super sweet now. Thanks!!!

evanr821
12-01-2010, 07:37 PM
I might pick up a set of these if I'm gonna have to be cleaning this out as often as you say.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Point-Tamper-Proof-Piece/dp/B002P4YCGM

Forget that...i took out those screws and replaced em with the same ones but they have a 7mm hex head. Cost about $3 at autozone.

skoo74
12-14-2010, 08:59 PM
bump.. just cleaned it again and runs good again... this time it only took me an hour total!... last time was like 3 hours to take off, clean and put back together...

T_Virus
12-16-2010, 01:38 PM
bump.. just cleaned it again and runs good again... this time it only took me an hour total!... last time was like 3 hours to take off, clean and put back together...

Help clean mine...I don't have tools...lol...

skoo74
12-16-2010, 01:45 PM
yeah man.. i can help... it's pretty ez.. the only other tool that you really need is the dremel to take off the screw or u can just get that tool from ebay.. we'll worth the mod bro..

sidenote: I almost bought a new IAC but good thing I didnt....haha

udontknowjack
01-15-2011, 10:31 AM
do i need to get a new gasket or just use the old one...??

talonXracer
01-15-2011, 10:33 AM
As long as the rubber gasket is intact it should be re-useable.

udontknowjack
01-15-2011, 10:59 AM
thanx....i need to get this clean.....i too have the idle problem jumpin up and down 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm

udontknowjack
01-15-2011, 11:26 AM
a local dealer have one in stock....only for a few bucks....gonna pick one up...!

talonXracer
01-15-2011, 12:01 PM
If they have one in stock then it certainly will not hurt to replace it.

LOVIN MY EP3
01-15-2011, 08:12 PM
I'm thinking about buy a new one and replace the 5point bolts to allen just to make it easier to clean

BeaterEP
01-19-2011, 07:48 AM
Hey Talon, when pulling the throttle body assembly, how far do you go as far as removing sensors and brackets?
I know you have to disconnect all the sensors (obviously) but the service manual write-up isn't very helpful, LOL. It's pretty much just "Here's the throttle body; take it out".
Is it easier/recommended to disconnect any particular sensor attachments and/or brackets, like the throttle cable bracket? Or simpler just to leave as much attached as possible?

Pulling the TB tomorrow so's I can give her a good scrubbing, figured I'd ask for any last-minute tips and tricks. :thumbu:

talonXracer
01-19-2011, 07:59 AM
There is no need to remove ANY sensor or bracket other than the IACV. Just disconnect the sensors and throttle/cruise cables and the heater lines(they will leak/drip coolant)

BeaterEP
01-19-2011, 11:44 AM
Good deal. Thanks! :thumbu:

TXEP3
01-19-2011, 11:58 AM
I just cleaned a spare IACV from an old throttle body of mine couple minutes ago using this technique and now she spins like a top. I'm stealing the sensors off for a new TB. Only thing I'd like to add to this is if you're going to use a Dremel and slot out the screws holding on the IACV, you might as well slot out the tamper-proof screws on the TPS couple inches away. My $.02

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 07:42 AM
First snag:
How do you get the throttle cables to release? Once again the service manual is...less than descriptive. Where, exactly, are they hooked in? LOL, love these learning experiences!

EDIT:
Nevermind, had some road tar or something on the end of the pedal cable, was obscuring the link.
Figured it out LOL.

talonXracer
01-20-2011, 08:23 AM
I loosen the locknuts and remove the cables from the cable stay. Then rotate the TB wheel by hand and slide the cable barrels out of the wheel.

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 08:38 AM
Yeah, got it figured out LOL. Just trying to remove some stubborn coolant lines now, and the TPS which seems to have a rubber cover over it, so's I can't find the clip. Ugh, and the temperature here is dropping rapidly, so fingers are getting numb! :D

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 08:47 AM
the temperature here is dropping rapidly, so fingers are getting numb! :D

LOL! I don't wanna hear it! weather.com says I'm supposed to see -29 tonight =[

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 08:53 AM
Jeeeebus! I just don't know how you Northerners do that shit LOL!!!
Anyone got ideas on stuck coolant lines? Don't want to rip the hose, but the two that run to the bottom of the TB are being...stubborn. :D

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 08:59 AM
Use a larger set of channel lock pliers to grip around the hose and twist carefully. Use a small flat head screwdriver to gently lift up the edges of the hose to break that surface tension.

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 10:14 AM
LOL yeah, pretty much exactly what I wound up doing.
FYI, you can probably ignore 90% of my "shit I'm stuck!" posts when I'm actually working on something...they're generally just me taking a break to let things sit for a minute, and I pretty much always walk back out to the garage and go "OH, derp! That's easy!"
:mbiggrin:

Random note, the IACV was held on with normal Phillips hardware, no funky 5-point drives. Extra bit, though, is the star drives. Gonna go cut me some hardware in a minute.

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 10:21 AM
Random note, the IACV was held on with normal Phillips hardware, no funky 5-point drives. Extra bit, though, is the star drives. Gonna go cut me some hardware in a minute.

Yeah, the whole assembly can be taken off (say to just replace the gasket) via those phillips screws but if you wanna actually take off the actuator(?) ...the black thing... to clean the actual valve in the grey housing, you need to slot them 5-pointers.

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 11:00 AM
Yeah I gotcha...guess I'd always just read it wrong, like there were 5-pointers just to remove the whole assembly. :shrug:
At any rate, everything's apart and after an initial scrubbing, soaking while I get some lunch.
Daaaaamn that thing is dirty! No wonder my idle's been sloppy! Feel bad for having neglected this thing so long!

No harm in cleaning out the throttle body itself is there? Also not as clean as it probably should be...

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 11:13 AM
No harm in cleaning out the throttle body itself is there? Also not as clean as it probably should be...

Absolutely no harm in having cleaner parts! =P
If you're taking off the throttle body to clean it, be careful not to mangle the gasket. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the little o-ring between the actuator and IACV.

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 12:11 PM
OK, last legitimate question of the day, I'm pretty sure;
how in the hell did you guys get that TB gasket material off? That stuff does not want to come off LOL!

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 12:54 PM
razor blade. you can use any number of fluids to loosten up that shit, personally i like to coat things in PBblaster just cause it's penetrating power. let it soak on the surface for a hot minute and scrape away. really any flat edge would work, screw driver, ruler, knife, etc.

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 12:58 PM
yuh, wound up getting it with a razor and friggin goo-gone! :D
That rubber gasket for the IACV need a drop of oil, or just a dry seal?

TXEP3
01-20-2011, 01:01 PM
I used a tiny amount of oil. It means a vacuum leak if that gasket cracks so I figured a little lubrication wouldn't hurt!

BeaterEP
01-20-2011, 01:06 PM
:thumbu: That's about what I figured. Time to put it all back together.

UPDATE:
Well, get her all back together, no leaks I can discern, and idle seems a bit more stable.
Another learning experience under the belt. :mbiggrin:

02ES1
02-17-2011, 01:50 PM
Am I the only one who thinks this should be a sticky since it's such a common problem?

White02_hatch
03-30-2011, 05:26 PM
Does anyone happen to know the specs on the screws? Mine we rusted/corroded in their slots so the dremel just took the heads of and about a can of WD-40 and channel locks and vise grips later they came out. Is calling the dealer the best way to know for sure?

talonXracer
03-30-2011, 08:52 PM
They are a 5mm screw I believe, not sure of the pitch, the best thing to do is take the TB into an AutoParts store and get the correct size, not neccesary to even talk to a stealership!



Am I the only one who thinks this should be a sticky since it's such a common problem?

It is stickied, and has been for a long time now.

White02_hatch
03-31-2011, 12:33 PM
Dear Talon,

I <3 you.....That is all.

chew
10-13-2011, 04:56 PM
My car had a weird idle today when I was leaving work almost felt like it was going to turn off, From what I have been reading it could be fixed by cleaning the IAC, could you do me a favor if you still have them but re-post the images photo bucket says image has been moved or deleted. Thanks

Bump for the thread!

BeaterEP
01-21-2012, 02:47 PM
So did this about a year ago, got a newer unit that I cleaned up really well and am going to swap in.

WTF?! How much coolant is supposed to come out of the upper nipple when you pull that hose?! I had a little bit last time around, but this time the stuff just keeps flowing out! Not just dripping, either. We're talking steady stream. :meek:
I finally popped the hose back on and left it just now to see what you guys thought. Is everything just under too much pressure? Pulled th radiator cap hoping that would defuse the situation a bit, but no dice.

Ideas? I can't have coolant steadily flowing from whatever opening the whole time I'm working, that's just a giant mess!
HALP!

whatsvtec
01-21-2012, 03:02 PM
So did this about a year ago, got a newer unit that I cleaned up really well and am going to swap in.

WTF?! How much coolant is supposed to come out of the upper nipple when you pull that hose?! I had a little bit last time around, but this time the stuff just keeps flowing out! Not just dripping, either. We're talking steady stream. :meek:
I finally popped the hose back on and left it just now to see what you guys thought. Is everything just under too much pressure? Pulled th radiator cap hoping that would defuse the situation a bit, but no dice.

Ideas? I can't have coolant steadily flowing from whatever opening the whole time I'm working, that's just a giant mess!
HALP!
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/images/fuel-hose-stopper-pinch-pliers.jpg
:thumbu:

BeaterEP
01-21-2012, 03:11 PM
Problem is the coolant is currently flowing from the throttle body. Like, I pull the upper of the two coolant lines running to the TB, and fluid just keeps flowing from that nipple on the TB.

Guess, what, I'll have to clamp off the lower hose first? Damn, this was way simpler last time around for some reason! :mbiggrin:
FFFUUUUU

whatsvtec
01-21-2012, 03:17 PM
Maybe due to the temperature difference? Is it colder now than then?

Sounds like that may be your only option, or do a coolant flush too.

BeaterEP
01-21-2012, 08:41 PM
Man. Wound up just using the two bolts from the TB to plug the two coolant lines and then zip tying them so they were raised a bit...I can't believe how much coolant came out of that TB though!
Like...it was a lot! Damn Honda!

jf ep3qc
02-09-2016, 12:14 AM
Thks nice diy im a do it tomorow :)

Envoyé de mon HTC Desire 510 en utilisant Tapatalk

WMX
06-18-2016, 07:53 PM
Guys... New to the forum but long time Honda owner (14)... My IACV went out only AFTER I cleaned it. This is the first Honda I can not permanently trouble shoot. Reinstalled it 5 times. No vaccum leaks, even a new IACV, TPS, still the idle issue is there. Did the relearn 6 times after each removal and reinstall and checked every possible avenue (yes even the coolant), except the actual connector to the IACV. I've determined THAT to be the issue since it's getting NO voltage. Without attacking the engine bay to trace wires I fixed this POS issue with a can of beer. Yes... A can of beer. While beating my head in frustration I had a Fosters premium. I looked at my throttle body and remember plugging the hole to check if the idle would become normal and it did while troubleshooting. So... I cut up the can of beer into a 4x2" strip and added a liberal amount of blue gasket maker (smooth and flat) to the strip of aluminum (has to be a large piece so the mod doesn't get sucked into the intake manifold EVER). Yes the gasket maker makes an almost permanent bond so the risk of intake suction is less then 1% IMHO. I applied and then removed a test piece and had to use pliers to remove the strip once it cured. So the bond is definitely safe (yet do it at your own risk). The end result... Check engine light went out, idle is at 850 and no bouncing rpms. The ONLY draw back is that you have to warm the car up manually. Otherwise when you start the car it will go straight to 850 then dip to around 500 then back to 850. So the car won't get warm as it should on its own. Since this is my commuter and toy, I can live with it. My primary ride is a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara loaded to the tits.

Anyhow I hope this will help anyone who is having the same problem that Ive been having.

IACV from Honda = $189
TPS = $59
Spark Plugs = $48
3 felpro TB gaskets = $21
2 IACV gaskets = $6
DC air intake (just because) = $100
3 weekends troubleshooting over and over = $?

Cost to actually fix this issue? A can of Fosters Premium beer $3