Rough noise at start up

[nightrider2002]

My car has been making a rough noise at start up right as the engine is turning over. Lasts just a second long enough until the car starts. It usually does it when the engine is cold after sitting overnight or during the winter when the weather is colder. It sounds very similar to the grinding sound when someone tries to turn the key to start a car when it is already running. My guess is the starter is going bad. Just wanted to get some other opinions. It still starts and runs ok but the noise does not sound good. I have not replaced my timing chain tensioner yet, but it does not seem to be caused by that. Any input is appreciated.

[ep3_]

Starter most likely. The clutch inside is sticking. Happens more often with cold starts in cold weather.

[Mechanic]

IMHO, it's not the starter, it's the vtec actuator. Discussed here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/4-problems-solutions/348233-vtc-actuator-grinding-noise-cold-start.html

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Starter most likely. The clutch inside is sticking. Happens more often with cold starts in cold weather.

100% sure its this.

[EP3driver]

I have the same issue, it sounded like coming from the serpentine belt, I replaced the belt and no fix, I replaced the idle pulley, no fix, I replaced the pulley tensioner, no fix, so maybe it is the VTC actutator since it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine and the starter is in the front...I guess I will try to wait a couple of seconds before starting the car with the key in the ON position and see if it goes away, if so then it is the actuator, it not, then maybe the starter, car has 170K miles.

[EP3driver]

I have the same issue, it sounded like coming from the serpentine belt, I replaced the belt and no fix, I replaced the idle pulley, no fix, I replaced the pulley tensioner, no fix, so maybe it is the VTC actutator since it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine and the starter is in the front...I guess I will try to wait a couple of seconds before starting the car with the key in the ON position and see if it goes away, if so then it is the actuator, it not, then maybe the starter, car has 170K miles.

Update: Went outside and tried it, the noise happens AFTER the car starts so it is not starter or actuator...it is definitely coming from the belt area so I am totally befuddled with the root cause for it as I have replaced everything related to the belt and it still makes the noise. almost as if something makes the belt skip for a second when the car starts cold.

[soquel1]

Have you tried the AC compressor clutch pulley ? It's on the bottom, you can even see it if you take the wheel off. This was one of the first problems with my 02 ages ago.

[EP3driver]

That sounds plausible, did you have to replace the compressor? With the engine off, I spun the clutch freely by hand...the compressor pulley itself does not move by hand of course

[EP3driver]

Have you tried the AC compressor clutch pulley ? It's on the bottom, you can even see it if you take the wheel off. This was one of the first problems with my 02 ages ago.

BTW I looked for a Honda compressor pulley replacement but they seem not to sell just the pulley...

[soquel1]

No, I did not have to replace the compressor. The formal name for it is a "Compressor Clutch". Part number is: 38900-PND--006. It is pricey. I would just order from Majestic Honda or HondaPartsCheap for the best price. When mine went out it was making an incessant grinding noise and there was a scent of burnt rubber (it was not turning and was causing friction) I do recall grinding upon start up prior to the replacement. I would suggest starting the car up while somebody is near the wheel well with the wheel off to be certain it is indeed the culprit.

[EP3driver]

No, I did not have to replace the compressor. The formal name for it is a "Compressor Clutch". Part number is: 38900-PND--006. It is pricey. I would just order from Majestic Honda or HondaPartsCheap for the best price. When mine went out it was making an incessant grinding noise and there was a scent of burnt rubber (it was not turning and was causing friction) I do recall grinding upon start up prior to the replacement. I would suggest starting the car up while somebody is near the wheel well with the wheel off to be certain it is indeed the culprit.

Its possible the compressor clutch is bad but I was also thinking it might just be the pulley bearing getting stuck. I am not sure there is enough clearance there to take the pulley off without having to remove the compressor. I will remove the belt and see if I can feel any issues when spinning the pulley by hand.

[soquel1]

When mine went out in 2007 I took it to a mechanic my family goes to. I simply didn't have the knowledge and confidence with cars that I have now to try and tackle it myself. BUT..... Depending on how you feel about about tearing into the car a bit, you won't have to discharge the compressor to remove that pulley/clutch set. When performing my engine swap a few years back I had to unbolt the compressor from the block as I planned to keep my AC. With that said, I set the compressor aside and rested it atop the sub frame. You will HAVE to remove your bumper/crash beam/coolant reservoir in order to access it. I'm also pretty certain you will have to remove the radiator/condenser as well. If i recall correctly they are two 12 or 14mm bolts, one is easy to remove while the other is a pest as it will require a box/combination wrench because there is no room for a socket due to the sub-frame being too close. As you can see from post #44 last picture in this thread: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?70945-Soquel1-s-quot-Back-from-the-dead-quot-2002-NHBP/page3 after that it will be relatively easy to remove that pulley. If you take your time, you can do this yourself. It will save you lots of money compared to going to a shop. It's a "day" job if you take your time and do things right. Other than that, I simply don't see any other way to access that part.

[EP3driver]

When mine went out in 2007 I took it to a mechanic my family goes to. I simply didn't have the knowledge and confidence with cars that I have now to try and tackle it myself. BUT..... Depending on how you feel about about tearing into the car a bit, you won't have to discharge the compressor to remove that pulley/clutch set. When performing my engine swap a few years back I had to unbolt the compressor from the block as I planned to keep my AC. With that said, I set the compressor aside and rested it atop the sub frame. You will HAVE to remove your bumper/crash beam/coolant reservoir in order to access it. I'm also pretty certain you will have to remove the radiator/condenser as well. If i recall correctly they are two 12 or 14mm bolts, one is easy to remove while the other is a pest as it will require a box/combination wrench because there is no room for a socket due to the sub-frame being too close. As you can see from post #44 last picture in this thread: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?70945-Soquel1-s-quot-Back-from-the-dead-quot-2002-NHBP/page3 after that it will be relatively easy to remove that pulley. If you take your time, you can do this yourself. It will save you lots of money compared to going to a shop. It's a "day" job if you take your time and do things right. Other than that, I simply don't see any other way to access that part.

After replacing the compressor on my own and in the Texas heat a couple of years ago, I am trying not to have to remove that compressor again. I was thinking maybe if I take the passenger side mount off and lower the engine a bit I might have enough clearance by removing the passenger wheel to access the compressor pulley and take it off while leaving the compressor mounted, that is if there is enough room between it and the sub frame to lower it enough...I wonder if anyone has done this

[Her-Name's-Ally]

idler pulley went 1st for me.

[EP3driver]

I hear you, I replaced idler pulley and tensioner and the belt when this first started a while back