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Pinoy84
02-14-2003, 03:09 PM
I recently just bought two alpine 10 inch type r's with 2+2 impedence. They are rated at 300 watts rms each and I want to achieve this output but the amp I am looking at (mrd m500 alpine V12 series amp) says I need 14.4 volts and 2 impedence to get 500X1 watts. I can achieve the 2 impedence by connecting the two subs to that one amp but I am sure our battery's are only 12 volts. I have read all 12 volts are rated lower then when the car is off and it really is close to 14.4 when the car is on. My question is how can i achieve this amps 500x1 for my two subs seeing as that my car battery or alternator could be holding me back even thus damaging my system if run with not enough power? Do you guys think this is a good combo for durability and performance?

Jpax
02-14-2003, 05:02 PM
What are you going for SPL? or sound quality? Reason for asking is im going for sound quality, so Power #'s are Irrelevant in some cases were Volume is moderate.

your subs you say are 2+2 subs , They are Duel Voice coil. 2ohm's

http://pix.crutchfield.com/products/2002/500/x500swr1021-b.jpeg

With That amp you should wire EACH sub in SERIES then wire the SUBS in Parallel to the amp.... then you will have your 2ohm load with 500 watts in each sub. yes it that simple..... :)

02sicivic
02-14-2003, 08:32 PM
You will be fine with that setup. When a car is running it will put out anywhere from 13.8-14.4 volts. since the alpine amps are a little under rated by an average of about 20-30 watts you will acheive 500 watts if not a little more.

Pinoy84
02-15-2003, 03:51 AM
Thanx for the reply, so I should get around 14.4 while car is running. The sub is rated at 500x1 at 14.4 and 2 ohms. When I wire the way you said which I already saw in the alpine owner's manual I was thinking that 500x1 was going to be split in two since its two subs ranging around 250 each plus more since they are underrated which is good enough for me since its rms is very close to the rms of the subs. But from what I got from your response is I will get 500 each. Also I am going for quality and loudness. I want the speakers to bump adequetly but as well as not distort at the volumes I am intending to play at. Money was an issue as well so a full alpine system seemed appropriate.

One other question, should I wire the power cable from the amp striaght to the battery or to the ignition coil? I hear mixed responses from friends saying that coil is better so that the system wont turn on unless car is on or is this wrong. I am trying to put my system together as smart as possible so my money invested is not wasted. Capacitors necessary?

Proposed system:
type r 10 inch subs 2+2 ohms
type r 6.5 components and coaxials
v12 series mrd 500 amp running two subs
alpine head
alpine 4 way amp
Monster cable

Jpax
02-15-2003, 08:29 AM
I Would run the power wire (4guage) from the battery to the amp, the Remote wire turns on/off the amp then you turn your system on/off ......so if you are sitting in car with the ignition OFF you can turn on your system, and the remote wire will turn on your amps. Yes you are doing greate for System set up.....

..and oh and volume 's over 120 db for long periods of time Will dammage your hearing. not to mention you can;t hear EMS, or police , firetrucks, when your thumping john denver in traffic. ;)

I would change out the battery if you want more power for your system, the factory battery sucks. its great for factory systems, and small Amplified systems, but it won't hold with your system.

Check out interstate batterys you can get a RED cap battery and be VERY impressed with it will do for your system, or Lighting Audio has one that fits OEM size, and has alot more performance OEM.

Pinoy84
02-15-2003, 02:01 PM
thank you, most of my problems answered thanx to you.

Pinoy84
02-15-2003, 02:17 PM
dammit, more questions. Ok now I'll be running around trying to find that lightning audio battery and probably use a capacitor with it, the 1 farrid lightning audio one. Ok, so the system is on(head and 4 speakers) whenever and just drains battery but could you explain when the remote wire activates or sends signals to the amp? Can you give some places that would sell that exact LA battery, the oem one, I just want ot buy it online or at a store but dont want to get the wrong thing. Does that product have an exact serial # for oem hondas and such.

Jpax
02-15-2003, 11:50 PM
http://www.lightningaudio.com/2003/products/

Click under power, then Cell batterys,then purpple top. its for hondas, they should have a dealer locator on there web site for your area.

The Remote wire is a wire From the Head unit that Turns on when the head unit is turned on. It sends the turn on lead to the amp. so when you press power on the headunit it turns on the amp too. its a small wire no bigger then a single 16 gauge.

C1V1C
04-24-2003, 05:47 PM
ok, what if I have 2 amps ? or more ?

Do I have to route the second amp turn on wire into the head unit also ?

just confused :confused:

chunky
04-24-2003, 10:24 PM
1) always run the power cable for your amps from the battery. your battery acts as a buffer for the entire electrical system of the car. that is why all electrical connections pass through the battery. If you wanna get really anal, run a new cable from the alternator to the battery.

2) remote turn-on wires just send out a 12v signal, the amp turns on when it sees the 12v signal. You can daisy chain the remote wires. For instance, I have two amps in my car, a sub amp and a 2 channel. The remote goes from my head unit to my 2 channel, then from my two channel to my sub amp.


3) I personally would wire the two voice coils in parallel, and then wire the two subs together in series.

I have 400watts + 160 watts running in my car right now with stock alternator, stock battery. no capacitor. I have no problems with lights dimming with the headlights & wipers on. The two amps are fused at 50 & 15amps respectively. so at most it's a 65amp draw.