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Thanks man, ya I was sitting there thinking of doing a female and realized there was no point since it was a custom one off piece for a caged car, there was no repeatability. So I said screw it, ill just save myself time and make a male mold...Quote:
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
I proceeded to curb stomping the mold after I got the part off because it sucked so much getting the part off haha.
Haha I bet, the mold probably got a little screwed taking the part off Im assuming anyway. Those contours around the bezel must have been a pita to break loose
actually, that wasnt too bad. since it was open and i could get to the backside. Though, around the upper part that acts as a glare shield to to the gauges, was a bit tricky because of the blind radius. In the end what was the trickiest was the switch/auxiliary panel in the center...once I was able to peel the side towards the bezel and get under it and pop it, I was able to pull the rest off.Quote:
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
I made a mistake, which I learned from, and I made the mold from the oem dash, by cutting and sectioning and filling. I figured why not save time and work with what I have. Well after molesting the hell out of the top section of an already gutted dash, I felt I would reinforce it, so i put a layer of glass on it just to had strength during the molding process. THE MISTAKE was that I used a normal amount of mold release for a SEALED surface, but glass is pourous. So id guess about half the mold release was on the dash UNDER the layer glass used to strengthen it up. So the dash stuck to those spots, thus making it difficult to release.
So lesson to be learned, make sure you have enough mold release, especially if your surface is pourous...
That said, I made the door handle block offs from a single folded sheet of carbon/kevlar (made it 2 layers) in a mold released teflon cookie sheet, and it released SUPER easy, and I was able to squeegie it in that situation which gave me a smooth resined outter surface. Sooo I learned to do flat layup, so my next composite project will be a spitter for the ek and my ep...which means, I lay up a big enough sheet of flat material, of proper thickness and materials and trim to a template...next step, win :mbiggrin:
Nice thats my plan for my under tray (in the position of a splitter but tucked up and behind my volvo lip) because my lip eats shit every now and then, and a splitter would just get destroyed. Main reason for it is to mount naca ducts up front to shoot air between the condenser and radiator aswell as one for an intake tube up to the box.
Anyways I plan on using a sheet of plexiglass as a "mold" with mold release, gelcoat, carbon, and build it up with some glass mat for cheap easy strength.
Nice, that's excellent thinking, you're giving me an idea. I definitely like the idea of running naca ducts on the under tray for brake/intake/cooling. I myself am also planning on making a splitter to diffuser undertray for that ek myself. I may also put a naca duct on the underside of my splitter and run it to my mugen box.Quote:
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
As for using plexi, id suggest against it. Plexi is brittle, and if you twist it to get the part off, it may shatter. My plan was to use a piece of sheet metal, thin enough to twist, but thick enough not to bend or deform. Then again, plexi may be just fine if thick enough, smooth as glass, and no chance of deformation, so I may just eat my words on that.
As for laying up glass as filler. That can work, but id suggest getting resin dye so that it doesn't show through the carbon if you have fiber shift. The dye is cheap and goes a long way, no reason not to use it. Also, they make structural foam for adding thickness and strength to composite parts, id suggest using that for strength and thickness. Id also use chop underneath for even more strength.
Check out fibreglast.com that's who I use for all my composite products. Doesn't hurt they are literally 20minutes up the road so I get my stuff the next day.
Nice man, glad I could serve up some food for thought :) and thanks for the suggestions for the splitter aswell.
Since you mentioned the plexiglass possibly cracking when Im trying to release the part, maybe I could glue the plexi down to some plywood or particle boar or something. Plexi just seems like the cheapest easiest way to get a large smooth as glass surface.
This makes me really want to start getting to work, but Ive been putting off this wire harness Im building for someone, then I need to start work on the DC5 race car Im building for my girlfriend and her father. Will hopefully be the first step in starting a base for SoHonda Garage as a business :)
/threadjack lol
Updates...?
:yeahthat:Quote:
Originally Posted by StockTexasEP3
sorry guys, works been kicking my ass, ill be working on a prototype on the shift gate in the coming months as well as this winter doing splitters, side skirt diffusers and an adjustable rear diffuser.
In for all of it :mbiggrin:
I hope work has been good for you!
too lazy to read through the thread, but were double-X and double-V braces mentioned?
I'm interested in that shifter gate, cage, template thing.
Actually scratch that.
I want that shifter gate, cage, template thing.
Here's something I've been looking at recently, just trying to figure out how I'd DIY it. Might be something you look into as well, though;
relocatable battery trays/brackets. You know, along the lines of the PWJDM units, but not so small and restrictive that you can only fit the little bitty mini-Odyssey batteries in there.
Like for me, I'm running an Odyssey PC925. It's a bit smaller than stock, but not that half-sized 680 that PWJDM is overstocked on. :mbiggrin:
I'd like to see a tray that could be set lower in the bay, or like some of the RSX guys do, stashed under a bumper.
Just a random thought. :thumbu:
Here is a prototype battery tray I made recently. SoHonda Garage will be offering them as seen or also with a catch can integrated in the next few months. Its small to fit the mini batteries, so not along the lines of what you need but just an idea of what can be done for battery mounting :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaterEP
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/P1090765.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/P1090782.jpg
Cleeean!Quote:
Originally Posted by shg_easye