Quote:
Originally posted by DeadMonkey
You need to make sure that everything is indexed properly. The damper mounting base and the upper spring seat are designed to fit correctly only in one configuration. The main noises that I've had to diagnose are as follows:
Metal on metal clanking noise: Spring coil isolators are either absent or not placed properly. You can take the stock isolators off of the stock springs and place them on the new springs in the same placement. Also, adjust the tubing that comes on the H&R sport springs to the place where the dead coils open up into the active coils. These do not necessarily come from the factory in the correct place, so adjustment may be necessary. The dead coils are the coils on the spring that are closer together and are designed to collapse at load. They essentially act like a spacer when the suspension is uncompressed and keep everything in place. When the springs are installed, these coils touch each other and the last set of dead coils can hit on the first set of active coils if the isolator isn't placed properly, making the metal on metal noise.
Loud popping noises when turning: I've posted on this one a number of times. This is caused when the bolt at the top of the strut is overtorqued, causing the strut bearing to bind. (This is most typical when the installer uses airtools. You NEVER want to use airtools when installing the suspension. Always use a torque wrench and hand torque the bolts to the factory specs.) The strut bearing is what allows the spring and strut assembly to turn as one unit when you move the steering wheel of the car. If that strut bearing is bound, it will not allow the spring to turn with the strut and put a tremendous amout of twisting force on the spring. The popping noise that you hear is the spring releasing and popping back into place. Many people have said to use lube to fix this issue, but that is strictly a band aid to cover up the problem. You'll get rid of the noise temporarily, but the undelying problem is still there until everything is loosened and then retorqued to factory specs.
Finally, while not necessarily as much of a noise related issue, You have to note that you absolutely DO NOT TRIM YOUR BUMPSTOPS with these springs. A lot of people do this out of habit. A lot of people believe that the bumpstop is just a slug that prevents the shock body from contacting the chassis when the suspension bottoms out. This is absolutely not the case. The bumpstop is a foamy progressive spring and is a working part of the suspension. Believe it or not, on the Hondas and Acuras, the bumpstop is engaged even at normal ride height. It adds rate to the suspension of the vehicle and WILL affect ride height if altered. Having an active bumpstop allows the designers of the car to use a softer spring and give a more complient ride, and also the bumpstop is the source of some of the progressiveness of the suspension.
I hope that helps clear up some of the questions that people have been having. Have a good one. :D
*Moderators - is it possible to get a sticky on this post? I've seen a lot of people asking these same questions and I think this will help with a lot of the confusion. Thanks.