Did this today. Awesome DIY writeup and not too hard at all. Took about 2 hours to take it all apart and clean it.... bout 20 min to put it all back together. Idle is back to normal and car runs super sweet now. Thanks!!!
Printable View
Did this today. Awesome DIY writeup and not too hard at all. Took about 2 hours to take it all apart and clean it.... bout 20 min to put it all back together. Idle is back to normal and car runs super sweet now. Thanks!!!
bump.. just cleaned it again and runs good again... this time it only took me an hour total!... last time was like 3 hours to take off, clean and put back together...
yeah man.. i can help... it's pretty ez.. the only other tool that you really need is the dremel to take off the screw or u can just get that tool from ebay.. we'll worth the mod bro..
sidenote: I almost bought a new IAC but good thing I didnt....haha
do i need to get a new gasket or just use the old one...??
As long as the rubber gasket is intact it should be re-useable.
thanx....i need to get this clean.....i too have the idle problem jumpin up and down 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm
a local dealer have one in stock....only for a few bucks....gonna pick one up...!
If they have one in stock then it certainly will not hurt to replace it.
I'm thinking about buy a new one and replace the 5point bolts to allen just to make it easier to clean
Hey Talon, when pulling the throttle body assembly, how far do you go as far as removing sensors and brackets?
I know you have to disconnect all the sensors (obviously) but the service manual write-up isn't very helpful, LOL. It's pretty much just "Here's the throttle body; take it out".
Is it easier/recommended to disconnect any particular sensor attachments and/or brackets, like the throttle cable bracket? Or simpler just to leave as much attached as possible?
Pulling the TB tomorrow so's I can give her a good scrubbing, figured I'd ask for any last-minute tips and tricks. :thumbu:
There is no need to remove ANY sensor or bracket other than the IACV. Just disconnect the sensors and throttle/cruise cables and the heater lines(they will leak/drip coolant)
Good deal. Thanks! :thumbu:
I just cleaned a spare IACV from an old throttle body of mine couple minutes ago using this technique and now she spins like a top. I'm stealing the sensors off for a new TB. Only thing I'd like to add to this is if you're going to use a Dremel and slot out the screws holding on the IACV, you might as well slot out the tamper-proof screws on the TPS couple inches away. My $.02
First snag:
How do you get the throttle cables to release? Once again the service manual is...less than descriptive. Where, exactly, are they hooked in? LOL, love these learning experiences!
EDIT:
Nevermind, had some road tar or something on the end of the pedal cable, was obscuring the link.
Figured it out LOL.
I loosen the locknuts and remove the cables from the cable stay. Then rotate the TB wheel by hand and slide the cable barrels out of the wheel.
Yeah, got it figured out LOL. Just trying to remove some stubborn coolant lines now, and the TPS which seems to have a rubber cover over it, so's I can't find the clip. Ugh, and the temperature here is dropping rapidly, so fingers are getting numb! :D
Jeeeebus! I just don't know how you Northerners do that shit LOL!!!
Anyone got ideas on stuck coolant lines? Don't want to rip the hose, but the two that run to the bottom of the TB are being...stubborn. :D
Use a larger set of channel lock pliers to grip around the hose and twist carefully. Use a small flat head screwdriver to gently lift up the edges of the hose to break that surface tension.
LOL yeah, pretty much exactly what I wound up doing.
FYI, you can probably ignore 90% of my "shit I'm stuck!" posts when I'm actually working on something...they're generally just me taking a break to let things sit for a minute, and I pretty much always walk back out to the garage and go "OH, derp! That's easy!"
:mbiggrin:
Random note, the IACV was held on with normal Phillips hardware, no funky 5-point drives. Extra bit, though, is the star drives. Gonna go cut me some hardware in a minute.
Yeah I gotcha...guess I'd always just read it wrong, like there were 5-pointers just to remove the whole assembly. :shrug:
At any rate, everything's apart and after an initial scrubbing, soaking while I get some lunch.
Daaaaamn that thing is dirty! No wonder my idle's been sloppy! Feel bad for having neglected this thing so long!
No harm in cleaning out the throttle body itself is there? Also not as clean as it probably should be...
OK, last legitimate question of the day, I'm pretty sure;
how in the hell did you guys get that TB gasket material off? That stuff does not want to come off LOL!
razor blade. you can use any number of fluids to loosten up that shit, personally i like to coat things in PBblaster just cause it's penetrating power. let it soak on the surface for a hot minute and scrape away. really any flat edge would work, screw driver, ruler, knife, etc.
yuh, wound up getting it with a razor and friggin goo-gone! :D
That rubber gasket for the IACV need a drop of oil, or just a dry seal?
I used a tiny amount of oil. It means a vacuum leak if that gasket cracks so I figured a little lubrication wouldn't hurt!
:thumbu: That's about what I figured. Time to put it all back together.
UPDATE:
Well, get her all back together, no leaks I can discern, and idle seems a bit more stable.
Another learning experience under the belt. :mbiggrin:
Am I the only one who thinks this should be a sticky since it's such a common problem?
Does anyone happen to know the specs on the screws? Mine we rusted/corroded in their slots so the dremel just took the heads of and about a can of WD-40 and channel locks and vise grips later they came out. Is calling the dealer the best way to know for sure?
Dear Talon,
I <3 you.....That is all.
My car had a weird idle today when I was leaving work almost felt like it was going to turn off, From what I have been reading it could be fixed by cleaning the IAC, could you do me a favor if you still have them but re-post the images photo bucket says image has been moved or deleted. Thanks
Bump for the thread!
So did this about a year ago, got a newer unit that I cleaned up really well and am going to swap in.
WTF?! How much coolant is supposed to come out of the upper nipple when you pull that hose?! I had a little bit last time around, but this time the stuff just keeps flowing out! Not just dripping, either. We're talking steady stream. :meek:
I finally popped the hose back on and left it just now to see what you guys thought. Is everything just under too much pressure? Pulled th radiator cap hoping that would defuse the situation a bit, but no dice.
Ideas? I can't have coolant steadily flowing from whatever opening the whole time I'm working, that's just a giant mess!
HALP!
Problem is the coolant is currently flowing from the throttle body. Like, I pull the upper of the two coolant lines running to the TB, and fluid just keeps flowing from that nipple on the TB.
Guess, what, I'll have to clamp off the lower hose first? Damn, this was way simpler last time around for some reason! :mbiggrin:
FFFUUUUU
Maybe due to the temperature difference? Is it colder now than then?
Sounds like that may be your only option, or do a coolant flush too.
Man. Wound up just using the two bolts from the TB to plug the two coolant lines and then zip tying them so they were raised a bit...I can't believe how much coolant came out of that TB though!
Like...it was a lot! Damn Honda!