You're right, Heitzke, I was looking at hondapartsnow.com and they list 2x of the number 5 and 10 parts, one is $36 and the other is $33, the only noticeable differences being one part number ends in E01 and the other in E11.
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You're right, Heitzke, I was looking at hondapartsnow.com and they list 2x of the number 5 and 10 parts, one is $36 and the other is $33, the only noticeable differences being one part number ends in E01 and the other in E11.
i finally did both my drivers and passengerside today after having the channels for months and months
its great:biggrin1: so quiet now inside
and both of my P/n ended in 01
fit perfectly on both sides o.O
i picked it up from someone on this forum for $37 shipped for both
i did it along with installing new front speakers and sound dampening the area around the speakers also :happy:
the speakers was a bioootccc to install because the stock hole is so small
but the channel themselves is easy to install
as well as taking out and putting back the glass
everything was cake
took me 2.5 hrs to do everything(speakers, sound dampening the mount area, removing the glass, putting on new channels, putting everything back)
and i usually take at least 3 times as long as the expected time a normal person would
where can I order one new channel for the drivers side?
i need to change mine ASAP, nice diy :D
Just for those who may be confused, I ordered 72235-S5S-E02 and 72275-S5S-E02 from http://www.g1parts.com out of Houston for my '05 Si. Installed both in about an hour without removing the door panel or anything else. Pretty easy and silicone lube helps. Start by installing the end near the door handle first by pinching the runner in half, inserting the end into the channel and slowly push it down making sure the window stays in the center of the runner. You can gently pull the window in with your fingernail to line them up. Work up the door toward the other end until you get to the vertical channel behind the mirror. Insert the end of the runner into the run channel and slightly down into the door (the runner should be arced out now), then roll the window up until it contacts the runner. As long as the window aligns inside the runner, roll the window back down and insert the rest of the runner and smooth it out. Lube inside both vertical ends of the runner with silicone lube so the window glides up and down and you're done. If it is difficult to push the runner down into the door, lightly lube the outside of it and try again. Great write up, btw. It helped a lot.
which is the part that runs up the back side(towards the back of the car) #5 or #10? thanks
I just bought the parts to have this done at the dealer because I didn't want to eff up my windows, lol. May have to give this a shot. I'm bitter about the prices though, they charged me $180 for the parts... :eek:
Thanks for the great diy, you saved me $150 :)
this happened to my driver side already. the first time i got it replaced by a professional window installer. i watched him put it on but he didn't remove the plastic door panel. but he did use a lot of lubricant to slide it in.
i think something is warped in my passenger window because it slides a little bit off when it's being closed to a point where the rubber on the top left corner (facing the passenger window from the outside) is bent inwards like its being crushed by the actual window when closed. its ok for now since its closes tight. but i find it annoying to look at. because the rubber is bent in.
i already bought the rubber channel for replacement, but im not going to put in the work to install it yet. not until it starts leaving a gap. as long as it seals tight ~ then its alright.
but when i do decide to put it on... im prolly not going to remove the plastic door panel anymore.
This is my third door channel set for both sides and what you describe is what happened to my last 2. It looks like it's installed incorrectly, but it's actually just a defect in the channel and will eventually begin to split and break down. I've never seen any car with such a consistent defect in manufacturing for such a simple part.
The samething was happening to me, everytime I would roll up my window it used to be off and it would roll up on top of the rubber, well I took off my door panel and I found out the problem, the windows have 2 little tabs (in the middle of the door) that hold the window in place which also helps it go up and down in a straight line, well one of the my tabs was broken causing the window to go up unevenly, the way i fixed mine was by placing a zip tie where the broken tab was (in other words I made a new tab with the zip tie) and that fixed my problem, If I would have known people were also having problems with this I would have made a DIY. Oh and did you have this problem before you had the guy install the rubber seal? because they have to remove the door panel because if they dont the rubber seal will not fall into place correctly which may cause future problems like braking your tabs, damaging the window motor, etc....
To be honest I try fix all my car problems myself because some people (not all) care only about the money, they dont care if they do the job right or not in your case it may have been that the person that installed the rubber did not know much about installing rubber seals or just was too lazy to remove the door panel.
Hey! I just did my drivers today along with the actuator. Quick question. Hidden behind the door pannel dropped out 2 styrofoam yellow blocks. Do these have a use and should I put them back?