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Changing out Catalytic Converter
This is a DIY on how to change out your catalytic converter on your EP3 with a generic catalytic converter from Ebay for ~$160. It's a direct fit and all the gaskets & fasteners are included. An OEM catalytic converter by itself is about $1000. You can use this DIY for reference only. Always use safety precaution when doing any jobs. Do at your own risk.
Ebay Item#: 311462210954
Note 1: The OEM catalytic converter includes a heat shield but the Ebay catalytic converter does not.
Note 2: The upstream gasket (donut gasket) that was included in the Ebay CAT assembly did not fit. I had to go to Autozone to purchase a new one that fit.
Note 3: The flange connections are slightly different. See attached photo. Although they are different, it works.
Note 4: The Ebay CAT does not "swallow" the upstream gasket (donut gasket) like the OEM CAT does. Some of the gasket is exposed. Although there is this difference, it still seals and works fine.
My catalytic converter went out around 150,000 miles. It was confirmed by an OBII reader and also a Honda technician. Make sure your catalytic converter is no longer functional before replacing. It could just be an O2 sensor that needs replacing.
Tools Needed:
-Metric Socket Set (3/8" Drive)
-Ratchet (3/8" Drive)
-Breaker Bar for Ratchet (optional)
-Socket Extension Drives
-High Temperature Anti-Seize (Small amount for O2 sensor threads)
-O2 sensor installation/removal tool. (Note that the downstream O2 sensor requires a socket with a small OD [Outer Diameter] due to the heat shield ID [Inner Diameter]. Autozone loans two versions for free. I suggest getting the one that comes with sockets because it fits).
-Wrench Set (Forgot the size)
-Car Jack and Jack Stands
-Fastener Penetrant (PB Blaster or WD-40) spray
Step 1:
Lift the front end of the car to it's highest and safest allowable setting using your car jack. Set the car on top of two car jack stands where specified on car owner's manual.
Step 2:
Ensure that the car has not been driven because the components will be HOT. Only work on car when at ambient temperature.
-Start by spraying WD-40 or PB Blaster to the fasteners and allow to soak. They might be very difficult to remove.
-Remove O2 Sensors using O2 Sensor Tool. If you have a hard time unplugging the O2 sensor from the harness, you can just leave them plugged in as you untorque but it'll add some torsion on the wire and may lead to damage. I couldn't unplug my O2 from the harness so I left mine plugged in.
-Be careful not to damage the O2 sensor by dropping it.
Step 3:
-Loosen all flange fasteners equally, however do not remove all the way. Some of the bolts are hard to reach, but it's possible. Try combination with socket extensions. Sometimes you can barely fit the ratchet in a clearance and barely get a turn in.
-Find something to support the cat back exhaust so it doesn't just hang there after you remove the fasteners. You can use the car jack if you want.
-Remove fasteners and remove defective CAT.
Step 4:
-Make up the new CAT to the downstream flange, however do not tighten bolts. Make sure you replace the gasket.
-Make up the new CAT to the upstream flange, however do not tighten bolts. Make sure you replace the gasket.
-Tighten the assembly.
Step 5:
-Apply high temperature anti-seize to the threads of the O2 sensor.
-Re-install O2 sensors. If you didn't initially unplug the wire harness, make sure you pre-twist your wire counter clockwise before tightening the O2 sensors (clockwise) to prevent torsion.
Step 6:
-Safely place the car back on the ground.
-Turn on your car and listen for any exhaust leaks.
Step 7:
-Drive your car for a while. My CEL went away after two days of driving (about 100 miles).
Good luck! I would have added more photos but this forum limits file size up to about 100 Kb.
