how would you make it so that it beeps on the first lock? I would love something like that
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how would you make it so that it beeps on the first lock? I would love something like that
I bet. I sure hope I don't go years without it.
Now that my driver's side is going out, I figure it'll just be an excuse to replace them both...
Honda should have an effin' recall on these bishes! :mmad:
Sorry mang.. I don't. Honda installed mine a week after I bought my egg new.
I've tried to understand what they did, by looking at everything under the dash, but it's a rat's nest under there.
Try Googling it. I bet you can find a DIY on it.
so Honda installed something else after you already bought it? Dang. I thought it was an out-of-box option to turn on.
I noticed it right after installing the actuator. On the second lock press the horn didnt honk. But i was so relived to get it fixed that I left it alone. Could it be the wrong actuator? Bc my neighbor bought it for me. He is a honda mechanic, maybe he got an em2 one?
IDK if it was for all their new vehicles at the time, but they had to make an appointment for me to have an out-of-house installer come to the dealership and install it- even though the alarm was already on the sticker price. It was SO long ago, I can't remember exactly, but I think that was the case for all their new vehicles. :shrug:
After they installed it, they made another appointment for me because I told them that I couldn't stand hearing the horn EVERY single time I locked and unlocked my car.
I don't think he installed anything. I think he just made an adjustment with the wiring or something...
Fuuu... mine is pooped as well, so I have to enter the passenger side to open the driver side because the keyhole doesnt work either... i think the bracket inside came off.
Damn. That sucks.
My driver's side is only acting up at this point and the few times it has, I've had to enter through the passenger's side too. :tehe:
I replaced my driver's side door in the past cuz I had a super deep gash on it and got a phat deal on a complete door with inner panels, glass, side mirror and all.. I pretty much swapped out everything but the outer handle and lock... SURE wish I would've now. :tehe:
Finally have my keyless entry working, thanks to this thread. :thumbu:
awesome thread! might need to do this soon :(
used this video today. I have needed to do this for 4 friggen years and even had the replacement. I just got around to it today.
Anyone know if the part numbers quoted in this thread differ from LHD and RHD model EP3's???
Trying to find a replacement for a JDM RHD model and I'm unsure if they're different?
FUCK....i have 1 screw left on my actuator that i cant get off DAMN LOCTITE!
im pretty sure i stripped it trying to get it off by now (i have replacement honda screws with the orange loctite on them)
sry for my language...can anyone give me any advice -_-
EDIT:nvm i figured a way around it...
i got out my mini saw and sawed through my old actuator to get it off...it took like 20 mins...but i got it done
installed new actuator and everything works perfectly again =]
my keyless entry is back! =D
FINALLY DID MINE TODAY! well the passenger side lol the stupid bolt was getting stripped so it took me two days lol i might do the driver side tomorrow though.. i have so much free time with my car since the clutch is fried and i wont be driving anywhere till i get some more money :( lol
I need to sell some parts that are laying around lol
I don't what I'm doing wrong, but I've done the stupid drivers side twice. Both times, I pull it all apart, try the new actuator just hanging on the loom and it works. Put the new actuator in, try it, it works. Put *everything* back together, and it stops working, and the actuator doesn't do anything. The passenger and hatch will lock/unlock with both the fob and door switch, but the drivers side does not click or even attempt to open/close. Plus you can't lock it now, the rod will not go up or down. So I take it all apart again, pull everything out, and now the actuator is locked in one position and won't move. I can't understand why *both* actuators do the same thing? As soon as it's buttoned up, it locks up and will not ever work again. I'm about ready to throw in the towel here.
If the new actuator is locked to one side, it is defective. It should always spring return to center. I recently replaced both actuators with ones I bought off the internet for about $25 each, brand unknown. Within several weeks both of them failed in the same manner i.e. locking to one side or the other. A telltale of this type of failure is that the linkage jams either locked or unlocked and cannot be moved with the manual popup in the door panel i.e. the popup stays up or down and cannot be moved by hand. My next move was to buy the actuators from NAPA for about $40 each. The NAPA actuators were Ecklin brand and they have now operated flawlessly for months.
One thing I noticed about the Ecklin brand actuators vs. the crappy ones was that the crappy actuators had the two halves screwed together with a small cross section o-ring seal much like the OEM ones and the Ecklin brand had the two halves glued together.
One of the failures was a real pain in the #$% for me because it happened on a trip across the states to visit my brother. The drivers door jammed in in the unlocked position so I couldn't lock the car. That forced me to drive nonstop for over 1500 miles because I didn't want to leave my car in a motel or resturant parking lot unlocked. After I got to my brother's and slept for over 12 hours, I went to the local NAPA and got a new actuator and installed it in my brothers shop. My trip home took three days and was much more relaxed.
When you install, be sure to completely test and then retest the actuator before reassembling the door panel. I found it somewhat difficult to get the linkage into the hole in the actuator arm and there is no way to know until you test it both directions (lock and unlock). I had to screw around for over an hour on the drivers side to get the linkage working by removing and reinstalling. Don't forget that the door closed switch must be depressed when testing, I taped mine down temporarily.
Hope this helps,
AceEngineer