This will shut you up.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...5/IMAG0283.jpg
Yeah, that is your intake manifold getting spoiled.
Printable View
This will shut you up.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...5/IMAG0283.jpg
Yeah, that is your intake manifold getting spoiled.
You pecker!! You got the TB on there too!! Shit is BAWSE!
:thumbu:
Poor guy. Really? I have a child which I needed to feed, bathe, and put to sleep. Sorry I left the page open and kept you waiting, but I've said what I have to say to you.
Sorry.
:popcorn:
I'll see how long it takes him to bang that keyboard :tehe: then I'll clean this shizzy up...... Maybe we'll make him his own section so he has plenty of room for that ego :mrolleyes:
NOW you apologize? THATS IT?!Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrow21
For real tho. I wasnt being an ass asking the question. PLEASE share your info. This isnt Honda Tech and we dont ball bust people (unless they ask for it). There are lots of members here that would love to see what does what, even if they dont post up about it. Thats why i DO ask questions... so the info IS there.
Brucie will clean the thread up for ya and i wont post a peep... cross my heart. :mangel:
Right, it is helping keep that torque up, but it is hurting his top end HP. I had a similar setup in 2005 on my old 04-05 k24a2 except I was on an 05 Type S midpipe and on the stock k24a2 cams. I trapped 95.5-96.5 pretty consistently until I got rid of the shorty header and oem cat. Once I swapped in the DCRH I trapped 96.5-97.5. Never got to run that motor with better cams and a less restrictive exhaust before I sold it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3
As I said, I'm done. Declare yourselves king of this anthill. Have fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Civic5lug
I'd like to hear mooaaar! I started with a PRB, switched to an RBB and now an RRC... I'd like to try my RBB after porting.
I'll dyno/tune the car again after I put a header on it. I'll post a graph on here to show where the gains are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slip_Angle
Here is a graph of the torque overlay.
http://i39.tinypic.com/25kpf1w.jpg
Run 3 is 45 degrees
Run 4 is 40 degrees
Run 6 is 30 degrees
Run 7 is 20 degrees
Run 9 is 25 degrees
-________- damn it! This is good fresh info!
ebrow: you did kinda pull the trigger on ba82, it was a simple question on procedure. but we can't tell how credible you are off ~11 posts. Now that you've cleared that up we're here to listen and take notes. The attitude on this forum is pretty chill (if you haven't noticed lol) - I hope that you can come back with more info on your findings, as I'm also interested in what you got going on. Post up your other builds too please!
Ba82: this guy...
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKEP
That is why I said anything about other cars, so anyone who read the thread would have an idea where the info is coming from. Not to brag.
Exactly. So much better than the normal "can i run this with that" type threads (which i know they have their purpose too but). Im excited to see some in depth discussion/info... :mcool:Quote:
Originally Posted by AKEP
Ba82ep3, after I finish my k24a1 k20z3 hybrid like we discussed (I really did write that in my notepad for a parts list too) can you tune it for me? Im being serious too not trying to offend anyone or make a joke. You seem like you really know what your doing with these k-series motors and I'd love to soak up some information from you during the tuning process.....but give me a little bit on sourcing and picking up the parts for this build :mwink:
Well... im not the only one around here with KPro knowledge, but i dont mind helping peeps out at all. Just lemme know when the time comes. :mwink:
I wish we had a thread that went indepth into how to build a basemap for your specific setup, how to take parts from different basemaps and make them work for hybrid setups, and finally how to street tune your own setup. When i built my EJ and started street tuning it i kept logs, pix, and tons of data for a thread just like this... but without admin ability it becomes a nightmare to try and put it together. I found that out trying to put together my 6 speed trans rebuild thread.
95% of my tuning knowledge is street based. Street based tuning can be just as effective IF tuning parameters are strictly repeated each pull. If your setup has enough power to create wheelspin, then IMO that entire street pull is worthless. I cant begin to tell you how many 100+mph passes i have made on I-64, or how many hours of part throttle KDL time i have put on my personal engines over the years.
Dyno tuning advantages are ease of parameter consistency, faster tune time, accurate pictoral/numerical display (which also makes tuning ignition timing so much better), safety, and avoiding cop issues. This is also why it isnt "FREE". lol
The question i posed earlier in this thread (tuning each cam angle prior to an overlay) can be difficult to accurately do on the street. This is one reason Hondata provides "tuned" basemaps... but anyone that tunes KPro and has a fair amount of knowledge with it can tell you that a majority of those basemaps are not tuned per the detailed parameters laid out in the KManager instructions. If they were, there wouldnt be drastic amounts of fuel missing in certain areas, and ignition maps wouldnt have spikes. IE: the original HiOc map Hondata used to provide for the k20a3 had a HUGE ignition spike in it.
Its understandable that they are going to provide a "free" basemap with minimal work, because a true tune would be very time consuming (time is $), and likely work less for your bolt on setup than the basemap already provided. The more specific the map is tuned to a certain setup... the less ideal it becomes for another assumed identical setup. There are too many vairables in mass produced cars/engines/parts and atmospheric/fuel variations to assume an awesome map on one car would be perfect for yours. Its ALWAYS gonna need work.
:pop2: Keep going very informative!:smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3
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