A Beginners Guide to Kpro
Copied from CRSX (OP is abcfreak, Original Page HERE!):
K-Pro A Beginners Guide
I thought I would write up a quick guide/faq on the Hondata K-pro and Hondata K-Manager engine management software. This is in no way a tuning guide but rather will address some of the things I encountered when first getting to know and use my K-Pro. While still fairly new I have learned a great deal from other members on here and this would not be possible without their help, thoughts, and personal experiences using the software.
What is it?
The Hondata K-Pro is a daughterboard that has been attached to a factory RSX-S PRB ECU. It allows you to manipulate a number of different variables including ignition timing, fuel, cam angles, Vtec point, and idle just to name a few, through their free downloadable K-Manager software.
How Do I get it?
The first step in obtaining a K-pro’d ECU is to order it through a Hondata authorized dealer. For EP3 owners you are able to use your stock ECU.
Since you will have your ECU out you will not be able to drive the car until you receive it back from Hondata. You do have to pay for shipping to Hondata unless you have negotiated that into the price with your dealer. Hondata does send your ECU back to you overnight OR 2-day fedex (included in price.)
*NOTE* While it is possible to run a used K-pro’d ECU, until you have it re-flashed to match your key and immobilizer you will be unable to disable the flashing green key light and will not be able to set the immoblizer. You do not need to send your keys/immobilizer receiver in with the ecu, and Hondata can not match them to a used ECU.
Once you get the ECU back from Hondata, it will be loaded with a test K20A2 calibration with the immobilizer disabled. You will need to connect the ECU to your computer first thing to register it before you can load a base map to it. You can only load the basemap when the ECU is powered by the car. Once you have it installed you can easily pick a base map and load it and you're on your way.
I have K-Pro, what now?
One of the first things a lot of people want to do is plug it in and start adjusting and changing things. This is where I was and then after taking a closer look I decided I should read up on what everything does. The first thing I would recommend to newcomers of K-Pro is to datalog and just get a feeling for everything that is possible in the software. I liked messing around with the Hondata “Kal’s” and seeing what each one was for and how they differed. Get to know the six buttons at the top labeled Tables, Parameters, Sensors, Display, Graph, and Error Codes respectfully. Each one displays a different amount of data and each one can be changed to display different information. To select a Kalibration “New Calibration” on the left side under the menu buttons and load up a Kal you’re interested in. There are various ones for many different applications that range from USDM Type S Stock to full on Greddy turbo’s.
*NOTE* It also has other Kal’s for EURO, JDM, S2000 and other applications. I simply stuck with these as this is an RSX forum.
Tables, Parameters, Sensors, Display, Graph, Error Codes
Tables – Displays a table of values in a 10 x 20 manner. The columns represent MAP (Manifold Pressure) and the Rows represent RPM values.
Parameters – This list of tabs each represents a set of what I call “Master Files” which the ECU will always obide by. The tabs get into a lot more tuning than I currently know. The few that you should know and check are the “Closed Loop”, “Lean Protection”, and “Knock/TPS.” Closed Loop allows the ECU to read the Primary o2 sensor and adjust A/F to ensure the car isn’t running to lean or rich up to an extent. Lean Protection picks up where Closed Loop fails. It sets a limit to how lean the car can run before hitting this protection. When the car hits this protection the car will “jump” or bog down and it will seem as though it can’t or won’t move. To disengage this release the throttle or press in the clutch. The Knock/TPS tab allows you to set different knock and throttle position settings. In here make sure the second box “Flash MIL when knock detected” is checked. This will light up the check engine light whenever a knock occurs.
Sensors – This displays almost all of the different things that are going on at any one time in the car. For the most part I won’t really look at this as a lot of the basic information you can find in the Display
Display – Does exactly what it’s named. Displays a variety of information relating to what’s going on with the car. In my opinion it has the most important information when you’re trying to see what’s going on.
Graph – This displays a timeline of events of sorts and you can create different templates to display different values.
Error Codes – I have never gotten this to work for me but from my understanding it reads all sensors and displays any CEL codes.
Datalogging
To datalog you will need to have the 6’ cord that came with your K-Pro purchase plugged into the laptop and the ECU. In order for the K-Manager software to detect the ECU the key must either be in the “On” position or in the “Accessory II” position. A note saying “ECU Detected” will display near the top middle portion of the screen. You will then load the Kalibration that you are currently running (for most first timers it will be the stock one) and begin datalogging. There are two different options available when datalogging. The first is just straight datalogging which will display the results in the different tables, graphs, and displays within K-Manager. The second option is record, the red dot near datalog, which is a combination of datalogging while recording the information for you to save and analyze at your convenience. If you click on the datalog button (you can also click on the record button as doing so will automatically initiate datalogging) (Indicated at the top of the screen near the menu buttons by a lightning bolt) then the car will begin datalogging. What this does is record information straight from your ECU into your computer and displays it accordingly in whatever windows you have open within the software. Some of the most common information to be found and read is/are; Air to Fuel Ratio (A/F Ratio), K. Count (Knock Count), TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor), MAP (Manifold Pressure), and IAT
*NOTE* I personally keep my ECU plugged into the USB cord at all times. It can be extremely difficult to remove and insert so I have routed mine up into my glove box where I can easily store it and use it when needed.
Big help and thanks to the following: Josolanes and Wessiah for allowing me to rack their brains over the past week with questions, no matter how stupid or ridiculous they were.
Sik LiL pLaYa for his write up on tuning using lamba overlay
and last but not least Conrad...This dude really took the time to learn the software and what it is capable of. I HIGHLY recommend anyone who is serious about getting into tuning to read his tutorials as they contain a wealth of information.
There were many others involved and information taken from many different people and sources and I would like to thank them. Unfortunately there are just to many names and sites to list and even try to remember.
I’m also going to include a few links and advice down below.
Wessiah’s beginners guide to tuning HERE
Sik LiL pLaYa’s guide to tuning HERE
Conrad’s RSX and tuning page HERE
Quote:
Originally Posted by josolanes View Post
I'll try to explain a bit the way you can make quick changes to your kal
Start kmanager, open your kal, and make sure the "Sensors" and "Table" windows are open
Plug the ecu into your laptop, then press the lightning bolt up top (Start/stop datalogging) or press the F10 key to do this
In the "Table" window you'll see boxes flickering. If you blip your throttle you'll see the flickering move to other cells. Down the left side of the "Table" window is your RPM's and the top of the table is your MAP reading. Generally, the further you push the gas pedal down the further to the right your current values will be read (less vacuum)
The way to make quick changes is to see where your a/f goes (and stays) out of whack on your "Table" window or when you start seeing knock. HOWEVER, note that there's a dropdown box at the top of the "Table" window with 0, 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 as options. These are the cam angles at which point your adjustments will be made
To switch between ignition adjustments, fuel adjustments, and cam angle adjustments you would click one of the 6 boxes next to each other at the top left of the "Table" window. The lightning ones are for ignition changes, the red star-ish looking ones are for fuel adjustments, and the blue ones are for cam angle adjustments. I do not recommend making cam angle adjustments without a dyno unless you've got some kpro experience and want to experiment a bit. Even then, a dyno is definitely the best and safest way to
The reason there are 2 boxes for each adjustment type (ignition, fuel, and cam angles) is for the low and high cams (in and out of vtec, respectively)
So, when driving or datalogging you'll need to pay attention to the a/f, K Count (knock), and where it is occuring: low or high cam, what cam angle (drop down), at what rpm, and what map reading
Lets say you're idling at 750rpm's with a map reading around -9 (don't remember exactly where it idles now ) and you feel your a/f's are way too lean. You'd find the boxes (normally 4 or so, as it flickers around the current values), you'd highlight the boxes (more is fine too) and increase the amount of fuel by pressing CTRL+I. To decrease the amount of fuel, you'd press CTRL+D
CTRL+I and CTRL+D are univeral in all the tables: ignition, fuel, and cam angles - the increase and decrease values respectively
Remember: The higher the a/f value, the leaner you're running. The lower the value, the richer. You would DECREASE fuel if you're running too low an a/f (rich) and INCREASE fuel if you're running too high an a/f (too lean). A good a/f to shoot for that's pretty safe is low-to-mid 13's on a simple bolt-on car imo
Now, if you see some knock you want to find out where it was occuring at and reduce a little ignition from there. Generally (assuming you have a stock motor), reducing ignition will help prevent knock. BUT more ignition often helps with some power. However, too much ignition = knock and will cause a loss in power
NOTE: Make changes in small incrememnts, and upload each time to make them take effect.
This should be a pretty decent starting guide for kpro noobs I hope . If anything seems wrong in it, please let me know. Or if you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm no pro by any means, but I'm self-taught with a bit of help from a local tuner and do all the tuning on my car as I feel most comfortable doing it myself. I just want to help others become comfortable with it also
