I'm having the same issue. Don't really know how to use this forum thing yet but decided I'd come on to see what everyone had to say. Just like you my car goes into limp mode after it warms up and won't let me over 4000 rpm. I've replaced the oil, nox, and o2 sensors but hasn't fixed anything. Changed the oil too. I can fix anything mechanical but all of this computer stuff is over my head. Wish I could help, haha, sorry.
it's your oil, that happen to me when my oil got too low, once i did a oil change it was running normal, so if you already changed your oil with no results, than check anything related to that...
Oil drain plug size? All brands the same or should i look for one in specific
So I picked up a USB outlet for my phone from a company called Tallon systems.
It takes the place of one of the switch blanks on the dash by the mirror and cruise buttons, pretty cool.
I'm wondering if there's a convenient spot to tap switched power, any quick ideas folks?
it could be the vtec solenoid/spool valve malfunction. any codes?
Hi was just wondering if it's normal for a stock ep3 to idle randomly high when start then works it way down it was bout 50f outside and it was holding 1500rpm for like 10 minutes doesn't have any check engine lights
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Sort of. Have you cleaned the IACV recently?Quote:
Originally Posted by thesheep1090
Strange thing is I'm getting a crank sensor code and it still runs, I unplug it and it starts right up. I even unplugged the cam and crank sensor and it still fires up. Any possible ideas would could cause my cell light to come on for my crank sensor??
Was wondering if anyone has looked into replacing the rubber seal between your side view mirror and the actual door. Honda tells me that I would have to buy the entire mirror assy just to get the rubber seal. Kind of expensive. Does anyone know where to get a cheap replacement?
There are couple of mirrors on ebay right now that look like they have the seal still with them.
Hello All - first time poster - 3 month lurker. Question on suspension. I am in the process of getting my ep to stage 0 (Basically factory spec) and in doing so I need to replace the front wheel bearings. I thought since I am removing the knuckle to do so I might as well replace the lower ball joints. I bought a pair of Moog problem solvers as I’ve heard generally good things about them. My question is: if I (and this is my plan) upgrade my suspension to Koni yellows and Eibach springs in say 6 months, will I also need to replace ball joints and tie rod ends to fix geometry? (ie buddyclubs) or are the standard joints and ends sufficient for the amount of lowering my suspension change will make?
Thanks!
Quick question, do you have to run Kpro to do the VTEC killer setup or can my stock ecu be tuned for it? I just swapped an ep3 drive train into my Ed and can’t afford Kpro rn. Any help is appreciated
Hi, brand new to the site and pretty much brand new to the honda world. Recently bought an 02 ep3 from a guy in Mississippi that told me it was k24a2 swapped. It's been dropped way to far for comfort as a daily and I'm trying to get referrals as to what the best options for lifting it back up maybe an inch or 2 under stock. I've tried searching suspension threads here but couldn't find anything (that I understood at least) would really appreciate some direction.
Thanks y'all
Very dumb question.... If I wanted to buy jdm type r bumpers for my 03 si, does the year of the type r bumper matter? do they all fit?
Basically.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ep3Rick
Front usdm rebar need to be replaced with the CTR rebar. If you decide to do the facelift bumper (esp with fogs) you should consider relocating the horns.
The rear CTR rebar is not as simple of a swap. You will have to either run no rebar (not recommended) or modify the USDM rebar. THE EP3R rear rebar is not a direct swap onto the USDM frame.