03 DC5 Type S Parts

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03-30-2011, 01:13 PM
15000rpms

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragebomb

Yes, those parts will bolt on so long as the donor Type-S is model year 02, 03 or 04. See previous posts above for more info.

You need the 05 control arm as well right?

Sensor: I would not leave it hanging. You can re-use the sensor and it bolts back up. The only modification that is required is to add a couple of thin washers to the bolt so that the sensor sits a bit higher. Doing this will prevent the sensor tip from being ground down by the axle's ABS teeth. Once you start the conversion and look at these parts you'll see what I mean.

Puller: You don't need a tie-rod puller, but you will need a ball joint puller. Other people have done without a puller (using other tools or generic fork-style pullers), but in most cases they damage the ball joints. I recommend you Google for how others have done it. The cost of a cheap ball joint puller is less than half the price of the OEM Honda puller so it was worth it to me. Alternatively find a buddy who has one and borrow it from him. This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

I always use the fork thing. It's a shame I just replaced one of my ball joints. Might wait till I get powdercoated first.
I thought ground down meant something to do with electric stuff. I think a better word for my understanding should be "grind". I get it now. Add the washers so that the sensor is further away from the suspension components. Thanks:)
03-30-2011, 10:51 PM
ragebomb

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15000rpms

I always use the fork thing. It's a shame I just replaced one of my ball joints. Might wait till I get powdercoated first.
I thought ground down meant something to do with electric stuff. I think a better word for my understanding should be "grind". I get it now. Add the washers so that the sensor is further away from the suspension components. Thanks:)

Cool man glad I could help. Yep, "grinding down" is a better description! You're exactly right: add washers so the sensor sits further from suspension component and the spinning axle "ABS teeth".

Good luck with the conversion, let us know how it goes. There are a lot of smart dudes in this forum. Remember that the most complicated thing I ever did prior this 5-lug swap was to install an air intake. So if I can do it, YOU CAN DO IT. LOL.
03-30-2011, 10:57 PM
ragebomb

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordofthesiths

anyone know where to get the ball joints?
I've checked BKhondaparts.com and hondapartsunlimited.com and the both show the ball joint as part of the knuckle.
i've seen aftermarket ones for lowered cars but mines not lowered.

I didn't search super hard for them, but I remember I came across aftermarket ones made by Buddy Club:
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...oducts_id=6016

Those might be the ones you were talking about.
05-18-2011, 12:51 PM
15000rpms

I need help on this. Can't take out the rear pieces. The 14mm and 15/16 bolts just keep spinning. Even with an air gun nothing is coming off.

Thanks in advance.
05-18-2011, 03:53 PM
15000rpms

Huge and big thanks to ragebomb. The break bar worked. "power tool" "cannot" be used on the rear strut bolt. It'll just keep spinning. After hours of using power tools, nothing but stripping occured. With the breaker bar, not even one minute and the shit came off.
05-18-2011, 04:49 PM
ragebomb

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15000rpms

Huge and big thanks to ragebomb. The break bar worked. "power tool" "cannot" be used on the rear strut bolt. It'll just keep spinning. After hours of using power tools, nothing but stripping occured. With the breaker bar, not even one minute and the shit came off.

Cool man, I'm glad that worked out. Good luck with the swap!
05-19-2011, 06:22 PM
15000rpms

The secret to taking out the rear strut bolts is that after you've taken out the 17mm nut, then you get the next nut to loosen. After that, you just pound in the screw and it'll come out.
05-20-2011, 03:28 PM
15000rpms

Just finished the swap. Took me 3 tries before the brakes were firm.(supposebly) As for the type s brake line question? It's a little too long in the front. I would "suggest" buying ss brake lines for the ep3 instead.
08-24-2011, 04:11 PM
EP3CHRiS

just way out of topic, but curious about the 4 bolt EP3 hub conversion to the 5 bolt EP3 hub conversion.....I know some people do this instead of the rsx swap, but don't you just need new hubs???
01-22-2012, 11:51 AM
SkareKrow

I have a question for anyone because the fact that I just did my entire conversion on my 02 ep3 and donating cars where. 02 DC5-S Hubs/Knuckles/Calipers and an 02 OEM DC5-S Axle. Except the problems that I am having are the alignment as well as the bleeding isn't working right... I am wondering if I am doing something wrong.

Well I installed it all including some SS Brake Lines.mmand then bled it by pumping 3-4 times and holding on the 4th one and my Pops would be out there and just loosen the bleeder and it would spit out the brake fliud which means air was in the line I started on the rear passenger then went to the driver rear then passenger front and the last one to bleed was the driver front. Then when I drove it the next morning when I braked it would go all the way down to the bottom. Then I took it to get aligned at a Firestone and paid for the lifetime alignment. They told me that well for the brakes the front ones where backwards. He told me to swap out the driver side to the passenger side and Vice-Versa... Then he told me that the front Wont be able to get aligned correctly because I need different tie rods they are fully adjusted and the toe is too in like this towards the front.... // F \\ and I explained that It was type s brakes etc... He told me your tie rods are maxed out... So this is where I am stuck... What do I need to do... Type S Tie Rods.. Ep3 Inverted Tie Rods. If so what kind would be great I need to get my car back up and running.
Thanks if you do know.
01-22-2012, 12:30 PM
whatsvtec

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkareKrow

I have a question for anyone because the fact that I just did my entire conversion on my 02 ep3 and donating cars where. 02 DC5-S Hubs/Knuckles/Calipers and an 02 OEM DC5-S Axle. Except the problems that I am having are the alignment as well as the bleeding isn't working right... I am wondering if I am doing something wrong.

Well I installed it all including some SS Brake Lines.mmand then bled it by pumping 3-4 times and holding on the 4th one and my Pops would be out there and just loosen the bleeder and it would spit out the brake fliud which means air was in the line I started on the rear passenger then went to the driver rear then passenger front and the last one to bleed was the driver front. Then when I drove it the next morning when I braked it would go all the way down to the bottom. Then I took it to get aligned at a Firestone and paid for the lifetime alignment. They told me that well for the brakes the front ones where backwards. He told me to swap out the driver side to the passenger side and Vice-Versa... Then he told me that the front Wont be able to get aligned correctly because I need different tie rods they are fully adjusted and the toe is too in like this towards the front.... // F \\ and I explained that It was type s brakes etc... He told me your tie rods are maxed out... So this is where I am stuck... What do I need to do... Type S Tie Rods.. Ep3 Inverted Tie Rods. If so what kind would be great I need to get my car back up and running.
Thanks if you do know.

To answer your question about tie rods, what struts are you running on? If they're EP spec struts and you're still maxed, you'll most likely need inverted tie rods ends, or Todd's Modified tie rods w/modified oem ends.

Also, after reading through the thread above I noticed a bunch of people bleeding brakes 3 times or more before the pedal became stiff and normal again.
01-22-2012, 12:59 PM
SkareKrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatsvtec

To answer your question about tie rods, what struts are you running on? If they're EP spec struts and you're still maxed, you'll most likely need inverted tie rods ends, or Todd's Modified tie rods w/modified oem ends.

Also, after reading through the thread above I noticed a bunch of people bleeding brakes 3 times or more before the pedal became stiff and normal again.

Im on stock struts with h&r springs and in Mid Feb Early March dropping in BC Coilovers N+.
Where can I get those inverted tie rods and they have to be ep3 specific.
01-22-2012, 04:29 PM
whatsvtec

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkareKrow

Im on stock struts with h&r springs and in Mid Feb Early March dropping in BC Coilovers N+.
Where can I get those inverted tie rods and they have to be ep3 specific.

You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.
01-22-2012, 04:48 PM
SkareKrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatsvtec

You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.

For sure. Thanks. I know that t1r had some. But.I don't know if they are discontinued...
02-19-2012, 12:40 PM
SkareKrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatsvtec

You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.

I ended up buying the DV Race Tie Rods (Todds Tie Rods) Pretty expensive. Got them installed and I am finally good to go for now. Thank God, Just waiting on the Type S Brake Booster as well as the Brake Cylinder and I am thinking of picking up some inverted after market tie rod ends. I was looking at the new ones that Wayne has v2.0 but honestly Too Expensive lol. Ill keep searching. Thanks again for as much as I could possible get. :smile:

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