K24A1 swap: small parts, procedures, etc
So here we go, another swap parts list.
Except after digging around the last couple of weeks I can't find solid answers to the questions I have, so I figure a new thread is in order.
BACKGROUND
I drive a 2003 EP3, still rocking the original A3 after 256k miles and almost 11 years.
She still runs pretty strong but time and miles add up.
I burn more oil than I'm comfortable with, and suspect the head gasket may be starting to leak.
I've thought about swapping in the past, but it looks like it's time to start working on it in earnest.
GOALS
K24A1 swap
Reliable daily driver
NA for the foreseeable future
PARTS - KNOWN
CRV passenger mount - got; came with my engine.
EM2 sway bar - I'm running an ITR header: May not be necessary but I wouldn't mind a lighter front sway anyway.
Plan to re-use all of the pertinent stuff from the A3 (PRC manifold, starter, etc)
PARTS - QUESTIONS
Z3 oil pump
What exactly is the parts list for this?
I've seen that you need the pump, baffle, and pan.
But I've also seen it said that you can run the K24 pan, which is preferable since it's stamped steel.
What about the oil pump chain?
Chain guides?
Do I just buy part #29 from the diagram below and plug it in?
http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/ill2....600&make=honda
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...6-speed-manual
Is there a balancing procedure?
Starter
Plan on replacing this since you're supposed to use the A3 unit, but mine is grindy.
The engine came with one, but it looks pretty worn.
So, K20A3, or K24A1?
Does it matter?
Head Studs
So one of these snapped already, when starting to take the valve cover off for clean up.
Figure it's a good excuse to upgrade to ARP studs, but I only see the K20A2 and A3 listed as applications on ARP's website.
Will ARP studs work on the K24? I know it's a slightly taller engine, but is that height somewhere else?
Miscellaneous
I know the external parts, sensors etc are all supposed to swap straight over, but does anyone have any insight? Any snag areas?
PROCEDURES
The davis guide is pretty solid, but I've got a couple grey areas.
Transmission: pull with the motor?
Unbolt in the car?
When I'm hooking it back up, clutch alignment?
External systems like alternator, water pump, AC etc: bolt on, then drop the motor in? I assume so but maybe that's wrong lol!
I know a lot of this has been touched on, but after serious digging I couldn't find anything comprehensive.
Hit me!
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K24A1 swap: small parts, procedures, etc
I'd kinda planned on replacing the head gasket and pretty much every other gasket on the head already, as well as redoing the oil pan gasket since I'd be pulling the pump anyway.
Basically, I got the motor at a good price, 80k miles on it.
It's pretty rough looking, so I figured I'd do a full refresh before prepping it for the swap.
Let me ask you this, as I've never done a full tear-down before:
If I pull the head, in order to replace/beef up various parts, how does that affect the bottom end?
I mean, beyond timing, since obviously you'll have to reset timing when you re-install the head/cams/chain/etc.
Does the bottom end have to be reset in any way once you're into pulling the head gasket and the like?
I guess what I'm wondering is, if you pull the head and do a full refreshing of it, does that mean you kind of have to pull the bottom end apart and refresh that, as well?
Haha pardon my newbishness.
Been wrenching on Hondas and Acuras for a loooong time, but never gotten into anything this ambitious. :D
PS: I'm all for the "you might as well..." part of this, in case you were wondering.
Might as well spend some of what I saved and make as fresh a start as possible with the engine.