Is the TPS loose at all? With all your searching around and removal of the TB, are the connectors, wires ok and not damaged?
Can you do a compression test?
Is the TPS loose at all? With all your searching around and removal of the TB, are the connectors, wires ok and not damaged?
Can you do a compression test?
how do u do a compression test???? i never removed the tb.....all connectors look fine. i pulled the connectors off and then reattached but no dice....Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
there is absolutly no response from the tps sensor.....
You replaced the IAC correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by SyckSiR
a few weeks back, when the maxbored tb was installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
Was that about when the big idle issues started?Quote:
Originally Posted by SyckSiR
not at all. the issues started happening thursday evening.Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
couldnt it be that the tps sensor is fried?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SyckSiR
Did you over-rev or bounce off the revlimiter last thursday night?
maybe but not that i can recall...definatly no over rev or missed shifts.Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
Ive had this issue last year, my TPS sensor was a bit cracked,
so i got used TB, replaced my TB and the issue went away.
It would randomly happen, sometimes my throttle would get jammed and car would rev to like 5k but it would happen rarely and go away.
This week my idle started jumping again but now it went away and for 2 days it was fine.
i do have an omni power tps sensor lying around in the garage doug, its brand new....
I would remove the TB and make sure there is nothing preventing a good seal. It wouldnt hurt to replace the TPS, also check the IAC gasket. Make sure all the sensors have their required "O" rings.
The cal and datalog point to a vacuum leak of substantial size(the TPS shows no movement during the idle fluctuations).
Did you remove and check the PCV valve? You should clean it and only be able to blow thru it in one direction. Make sure the tubing is not split and is tightly clamped after reassembly. Also to eliminate the AAV lines just cap the fitting on the IM. To eliminate the brake booster, disconnect that line from the IM and cap it.
i couldnt get a rachet or a wrench in there to remove the pcv valve....nothing i had fit...but the whole clearing security and now the car wont even start is the bigger issue.......if the tps thought it was closed but it wasnt, would it do the same thing??? the bouncing idle that is.....?? i dont have anymore tb gaskets either.....and it'll take weeks to get them here from the states, its 14 bucks a piece up here and a min 4 day wait...Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
the gasket will probably still be good and should be undamaged upon removal as long as you cleaned all the old gasket off.
Go ahead and replace the TPS. Use the Kpro reading to get it physically to zero before reinstalling the TB.
In that datalog I seen no abnormal TPS signals that would cause a fluctuating high idle.
You need to get a deep socket and remove the PCV and then clean & check it. You have a vacuum leak of some sort and you need to eliminate any and all access points.
Download the Helms for the procedures to do a compression test. It will require a test gauge, which is available at any autoparts store.
Also I dont know what is accomplished with "clearing security" on Kpro. I have NEVER done it.
yea, it was cleaned when i got it from jorge, the tb that is....there was no remaining gasket on the im....so you mean, install the tps sensor and move it until it sits at zero in kpro, dont just zero it in kpro?Quote:
Originally Posted by talonXracer
Yep, you have to get it close, you will see how much range it has when you start messing around with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SyckSiR