i might do this instead of buying a used HFP....
how would you go about installing a bigger sway/strut with these a-spec??
you can't get the ones for ep anymore?
o.O
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i might do this instead of buying a used HFP....
how would you go about installing a bigger sway/strut with these a-spec??
you can't get the ones for ep anymore?
o.O
No problem man.
I couldn't give you a strait answer on that. It was never a concern to me so I haven't looked in to it. Also, everything I have ever read as far as suspension and our cars go, unless you're really looking for a tenth of a second or something like that, those minor things aren't too significant. Skills/Tires/Suspension/Brakes, once you master those, that's when the other stuff can be looked in to.. That's what I've gotten from my readings.. Someone else feel free to chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.
very good write up though.
I'm going to get my hands on an spec and do this asap.
definitely beats paying for a used HFP
Can you post better pictures of your ep for a better look at the wheel gap and whatnot?
im guessing your driving the 02-03 model with the 15inch ?
Yes I can sometime soon. Although you should know, HFP/Mugen/A-Spec are not known for their 'slammed' appearance. They are function > form suspension setups. Dropping the car more than an inch or so negatively affect our cars handling performance. But, I can tell you right now and anyone on here should be able to tell you the same thing, if you have a nice HFP/A-Spec setup, with good tires, you can have a blast with these cars on autoX and what not for considerably cheap.
The only complaint common with the A-Spec is that people wish that it was a bit lower in the rear, it is not 'perfect' but I think that it's just fine. Here is a more recent picture of the rear and as it sits with stock wheels/tires (195/60/15)
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/5...1102091400.jpg
looks good i have stock 16's so my tire gap should be a bit smaller i assume. thanks alot!
yeah i actually only want less than an inch drop but not for autox or anything
mainly because stock is way too high and anything lower...i'd have to watch where i drive all the time where i live(which imo defeats the purpose of having a 'sports' car)
and also...what tail lights do you have? o.O
o really.
i saw some like those on honda tech and i asked around and no one seemed to know what they were
i wanted to get my hands on some but they don't even seem to exist?
how did you get yours?
http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/1151/dscn1900wi1.jpg
are these them?
I was just kidding lol, yes them are it. Here's the story on that.. When I first bought my car, I paid with part cash and part loan so I was tapped out, the original owner had some HIDEOUS alteza 3D crap tail lights on them that just simply was NOT acceptable, so I got the cheapest thing I could find.. Which turned out ok cause they look pretty decent. But, they were on ebay for 50 dollars shipped about 2 years ago.
I know haha, it's a lot better than the crappy 3D ones that were on there.
Speaking of eBay.. Type in 'a-spec suspension cury acura'
That's where I got mine. I don't know the part number.
I've read you need a special honda puller tool in order to remove the strut from the tie rod, but I don't see you using this in your write up. You used a hammer?? Details needed.
Thanks!
Use a rubber mallet or some kind of hammer/mallet that IS NOT metal, and just hit upward to push the tie rod out, it helps to turn the wheel while the car is jacked up and hit it lightly. You don't want to use a metal hammer because you will mess up the very bottom threads and won't be able to screw the nut on it. Yes, you WILL be replacing the tie rod ends, but it's still a good idea not to destroy the old ones, you might want to go back to stock, or you could sell them, or whatever you choose to do.
If you only have a regular metal hammer, use a piece of wood or something to put between the two so the impact of the hammer isn't as harsh.
I'm not actually using this DIY for the a-spec suspension (so I will def. be re-using my tie rods) but it helps nonetheless. Just to be clear, tap the bolt at the bottom upward and it should free itself and upon installing new strut the tie rod bolt should slide right in??
Thanks again, I really need to get this done asap.
Yes. GENTLY tap it so you don't damage anything. Also, if you DO end up messing one of them up, I have 2 I can sell you that I don't use anymore since I use the RSX tie rod ends.