Did any save my tsx swap by any chance, that is now lost? I thought I saved it but cannot seem to find it anymore. If so please pm me. Thanks.
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Did any save my tsx swap by any chance, that is now lost? I thought I saved it but cannot seem to find it anymore. If so please pm me. Thanks.
BUMP = Someone please find this.Quote:
Originally Posted by vbpracer
edit: lol shit, I can't believe I actually had it saved on my Yahoo Mail
Here is a informative thread for anyone considering a tsx swap, and I hope it will be sticked. I went from a supercharged K20A3 to a stock 04 K24A2 engine. In doing so I had to search and read quite a few threads to find answers to my questions, hence the reason why I chose to create a summation of things I find nessecary to know.
The engine fits and no modification is necessary.
Things you will be using of the A3 are:
-Wireharness
-Throttle body
-Alternator
-Starter
-Tensioner
-Crank sensor
-Thermostat
-AC compressor ( no need to disconnect lines)
Parts you will be using of the k24 are:
-Waterpump
-Oil pump
The powersteering will be removed, since the ep has electronic powersteering.
Thats basically the list of big parts.
Other parts to use:
I used the k24 fuel rail, since the ep3 doesn't fit on the rbb manifold. However, I did use the black piece of plasting guiding the injector clips of off the k24, this way you can clip it onto the fuel rail
You will need the karcepts adapter www.karcepts.com, part number KIM01. You can then use two throttle body gaskets, I used permatex instead.
You will also need the crv bracket, replaces the existing bracket on the passengers side.
Note on the thermostat, when swapping thermostats, use the k24 metal piece, I'm sure you can use the a3 one, but I didn't feel like modifying it to make it fit.
I also had trouble fitting the throttle cable bracket, so right now its only secured by one bolt. This is because its in the way of the fuel line, since I used the k24 fuel rail. Possibly if you use the ep3 fuel rail you wont have this problem.
Since the rbb im postions the throttle body at an angle, your intake will most likely not fit. I used a injen sri 3", and have it positioned it securely using a different elbow.
I also had trouble with the throttle cables sitting to high up against the hood, causing the engine to idle at 2k rpm in my instance. I removed the insulation on the hood and it solved it.
You must remove the map sensor from the tb when using the rbb im, there is a place for it on the im itself. If you dont do this, the tb will not fit.
The stock exhaust manifold will clear the stock sway bar.
You can use your 5 speed transmission, along with the clutch and flywheel. Be sure to torque the flywheel to specs.
You will use your stock k20a3 belt, not sure of the part number. I didn't find an answer before the swap, but I had quite a few different ones laying around.
On the A3 harness, it will be obvious with sensors plug in where. The only ones you can confuse are 2 on the throttle body.
As most of you know, you cannot use the tsx ecu, or pnf ecu, you Must have kpro. In my instance, I kept my stock ecu, bought a pnd kpro'd ecu (02-04 rsx). Just in case I sell I dont have to mess with the immobilizer. Think in advance.
Other comments.
When removing the a3, I dropped it out of the bottom, with everything still attached, then swapped parts.
I had trouble taking my axles off, or intermediate shaft, so I secured them using coathangers, kind of ghetto, but it worked.
You will need a variety of hoses to cover all the vaccuum and coolent ports. Be sure to have a few extra with clamps.
Be sure to replace the oil filter if necessary before installing the engine, just makes if easier. I had to jam a long screwdriver through the filter, since it wouldn't turn.
Be sure to have a couple of jugs of coolent, a can of grease like lithium, a degreaser, and some permatex. I would also suggest to collect all metric bolts from you honda parts, in case you break or strip a bolt
Troubleshooting:
Since your draining all the radiator fluid, and air will be stuck in the lines, you must bleed the system. The way I did this is by letting the engine idle, while having the radiator cap off, preferably with while jacked up. Air will escape coolent will gush out, just make sure to add more. Also take a look at you ECT, mine was about 225F on startup, basically meaning air was still in the lines. When all air was removed it was under 200, if it makes you feel comfortable set cooling fan to come on at a lower temperature.
Another issue that I had was P0335 CRK sensor no signal, in my case, there was a bad connection between the crank sensor and the plug.
I also had trouble with the newer tsx stock basemap, which caused my VSS, AC and temperature gauge not to work. I solved this by using another cal, older one.
If you are coming from a cammed or I/H/E k20a3 you will definately feel the power. I even noticed a difference between the jrsc a3 and the tsx. Lots more torque and its pretty quick too. All in all well worth the money. It is a good platform to start with. Having had the jrsc for a few years, and now the k24a2, I will never go back to the A3, never say never though.
I hope this thread is informative to anyone contemplating the tsx swap, for any questions on the swap pm me, and I will do my best to help you.
-Brad
thanks alot this helps alot with my swap in the near future.
QuotedQuote:
Originally Posted by skoundrelusa
just in case
Im printing it right now and putting it into my safety deposit box tomorrow
no kidding
Hey Brad
Can you please explain again why the karcepts part was necessary
that is the first that I have read about that being needed for this swap.
EDIT: nevermind I read it on there website