My car audio plan, need some help

Hey all, I've been reading the forums and trying to put together a car audio system on paper and have some questions/thoughts I hope some of you wouldn't mind processing for me.


From my research, I've read the different things people have had to do to put 6-1/2" fronts (drilling/mounting/spacers), and how the rears take nearly anything(drilling), and that you want tweeters 1" or less (1" meaning you dont get to use the stock grill) and some other installation and size tips.

I believe I want to go with 6-1/2s front and rears, 1" tweeters and a single 12" sub. I don't want to deafen the neighbourhood with 2x12s, and I understand that a single 10/12 in our hatch-body (open cabin) is a solid sound system, which is all I'm looking for.


Here are my specific questions:

1. If I grab a component system for the front, (which means usually its a pair of 6-1/2"woofers+1"tweeters+crossovers) am I looking for 6-1/2" "full-range" speakers in the rear (ones with tweeters and woofers) or trying to find the just the "woofer" part of what I see in the component systems online.

2. What are your overall opinions on rears anyway? Do some of you not bother upgrading them? Or do you put in maybe 60W 120$ JL instead of 100W 200$ Alpines, because if you rarely have people in the back (like me) then it doesn't really matter?

3. What are your preferences on 1 vs 2 amps, ie. one for all or one for sub and one for speakers? On this cep3 thread "kaotik78" was very happy going with just one amp instead of two. I like the idea of compactness personally over being a true audiophile, but I need your input.

4. If I go with 2 amps, then for the head-unit, do I want to make sure I get one with 3 preamp outputs, front/rear/woofer, so that I can have seperate lines to each amp? Or can/do you "split" a 1pre-amp output to both amps? Whats the rule of thumb here?

If you're interested, I've made this cart for myself so far on crutchfield.ca as a baseline, with no amp selected yet. They don't have as much selection or as good prices as crutchfield.com or onlinecarstereo.com, but shipping costs dictate I look to my own country:

http://i.imgur.com/x18BLr3.png

Direct links (crutchfield.ca):
- Alpine CDe-136BT HeadUnit - selected for 3 preamp outputs, but would go down a model number if possible
- Alpine SWR-1223D 12" Sub
- Alpine SPR-60C - this is the component system
- Alpine SPR-60 - this is a pair of "full-range" for the rears

That set up looks great, I prefer full range in the rear, as it helps with filling the cabin, and not bombed out with just bass. I had 2 amps in my car, one for sub, and 4 way for the fronts, but I would rather have 1 amp if it was possible back then I would have chosen one amp to power the entire system. get a cap too if you can fit that in the budget.

Interesting point about the Cap, thanks that hadn't come up in my research, I'll read more about em.

I think the amp issue may come down to my budget as well, even doing the install myself will cost me a bit, i'm probably going to need a few tools, wiring, mounting brackets, MDF, fiberglass, and a dinner or two for some help from a friend lol.

I'm going to have to think about the rears a bit more, Ive had someone in the back of my civic, when I might have wanted music on, ie not a parent, all of like 1 time :)

first of all dont get a cap... they will drain the battery more than they produce
My setup is very similar to yours, except i got component alpine in front and back, I wouldn't get different speakers for the back because the sound would be horrible.. you dont want the front to be high pitched while the back are distorted. Been thru it before its worth it just get all 4 speakers the same.
Also me personally prefer 2 amps vs just one, specially for component speakers since they dont produce much bass, have all the bass coming from the sub, I'd rather have them separated than together on the same amp.
Last for the sub if you are buying one I would get JL w6, or if you buying 2 subs then JL w3... I beleive they are better than Alpine subs for around the same price

Quote:

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Originally Posted by b33lz89

first of all dont get a cap... they will drain the battery more than they produce
My setup is very similar to yours, except i got component alpine in front and back, I wouldn't get different speakers for the back because the sound would be horrible.. you dont want the front to be high pitched while the back are distorted. Been thru it before its worth it just get all 4 speakers the same.
Also me personally prefer 2 amps vs just one, specially for component speakers since they dont produce much bass, have all the bass coming from the sub, I'd rather have them separated than together on the same amp.
Last for the sub if you are buying one I would get JL w6, or if you buying 2 subs then JL w3... I beleive they are better than Alpine subs for around the same price

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The only time a Cap will drain your battery is if you did not properly charge it before installing it, and or if it has a bad cell. most new ones on the market 1 Farad Digital Capacitor will work just fine IF he wanted to install it, I didn't say he HAD to have it for his system. You don't need to have component in the rears, as audio quality is personal preference everyone has their taste's So I wouldn't waste your money on buying another set of component's in the rear if your strapped for cash.

I prefer two amps myself. The only 6 channel amp i would consider would be a JL amp... its hella pricey... plus the size isnt the easiest to work with if youre going for a 'stealth' install.

In all the years i have installed, i have preferred sealed sub cabs for reasonable cab size, and low end sub extension control. The bad thing is you usually need to spend more $ on a quality sub with great efficiency ratings so you can make the most out of your amp/sub setup (since sealed cabs are usually less efficient).

This time around im going with a 4th order (sealed/ported) cab with one DVC 12" that should give me the best of both a ported and sealed cab... since i dont want to have midbass drivers larger than 6". I too feel front and rear drivers should be the same, so tonal quality is the same.

IMO, be sure your source has separate pre outs for your sub(s), with good control. Music is never recorded equally, and one of the things i always end of fiddling with is how much low end i have from one track to the next (comparing types of music). The bass of Techmaster PEB does not sound good with REO Speedwagon. lol

Its true you end up spending a lil more considering wire and input cable costs, but the adjustability and quality of sound is so worth it.

I have been out of the serious system scene for atleast 10 yrs.I have always had something.I just recently went the power pack route because the alpines needed a little extra love.I came close to putting my old A/D/S back into commission but I really didn't feel like messing with it. Those old school amps can still be had.