Very nice Chad.
What size/brand sub is that? How's it sound?
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Very nice Chad.
What size/brand sub is that? How's it sound?
The sub is a Dayton 10HO, I belive the model number is RS265HO, they make a HF one that is more suitable for a larger enclosure but has a much lower Le (good). It's Parts Express' House brand and dedigned by Darin Kazuma.
It's 10"
It sounds fantastic, not muddy, no nasty overtones, etc. Very musical. It's designed as an SQ driver, copper shorting rings, etc. It models out MUCH like the PE Titanic 10 but with lower distortion. I'm not giving it much power and it gets loud enough for a DD 95% of the time, and yes I have expeireinced that other 5% ;)
Best of all, it's affordable, very affordabble, I have yet to find a driver that's so nice for that price but very accurate, they even play pretty high! Antother advantage is that they work in a small vented elcosures, which is a great + and they also work in sealed enclosures, both perform very well albeit many think the sealed allignment is rather lacking.
I'm getting ready to put 2 of them in a mastering room with a pair of Lapinski's, I'll report back, it will be a hell of an SQ test for them.
Not impractical at all.
Tilt the pass side rear seat forward a bit, flip up the wings of the false floor (grilles stay intact) and pull it out.
Disconnect the sub (on a quick disconnect)
lift the enclosure out (it's not that heavy)
Done, takes 40 seconds or less if you are loaded (tested in the garage at 3AM)
Amp does not need to be removed.
Now.. the BIG question is what's it gonna be like without the spare in there, never tried that, but have been flat-free for 20 years, I just ain't gonna go without it, I'm GOING TO get there :mbiggrin:
It's not that hard, glass is intimidating, and yes, after it sets it's permanent unless you ere handy with a sander :D but you CAN sand it! the glass was the easiest part, the rest can be done with a jigsaw and a steady hand for the holes and a table saw or a circular and a guide for the rest.
HaHa, Can't tell if it's a joke or not :msmooch:
It sneaks inside the hatch lip there, sandwitched with silicone as to not jack up the paint, it's removable with no exterior oopsies and 3 holes in the hatch rail with SS hardware in them and protected from rust. I don't have pics of the actual mount since then, the cable had to be reduced to LMR100 to pass the glass, Honda keeps the tolerances so tight that the standards won't fit AT ALL. That STUFF SUCKS TO WORK WITH! But it gets the job done, the tip of the antenna is 5' from the ground at best, and it still kicks ass for distance, although it favors the front of the car on transmit due to a lack of ground plane to the rear.
the write up was so long that I didnt feel like reading everyones responses, so this may have already been asked
but can you play the music while the sub is covered? I'd think it would just push the cover right off?
oh word, I wasnt sure.
thanks again for your help chad. Very nice work.
here's my version
taped up the tire for the mold
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/...5efd4f1d1e.jpg
mold done
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2706/...86608bc56d.jpg
gave up on trying to remove the tape...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/...ef157ed699.jpg
building the box
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/...cd2b45bd65.jpg
sealing the box
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/...2506462e38.jpg
letting the glue dry
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/...7607de4d83.jpg
test fitted the false floor with grill rings on top of box
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2687/...0d7b957b2e.jpg
carpeted false floor with locks on each side
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/...ff7a3cd2ae.jpg
right side holds the amp, left side holds the jack/tools
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/...f977f3bb38.jpg
when i get some time i'm going to put in a proper floor for the amp area. right now its just kinda sitting in there half falling into the spare tire hole. ill probably carpet the sub box too.
thanks for the idea chad
Badass, what's it tuned to and what driver is in it? Did you try the vent at the back also or just go for the front? Did not know if oyu experimented with loading of the vent versus the rear of the hatch. I preferred mine loaded MUCH better.
i used the same driver as you, and my buddy did the box tuning calculations. i'm an audio noob... i think he tuned it to 34hz? He sent me the box dimensions and away i went. The reason i ported near the seats was because my car is usually loaded with tools which are typically near the hatch area. i wanted to keep things from poking through the carpet as much as possible. what do you mean by loading of the vent vs the rear of the hatch?
By loading a souorce near a boundary you gain output due to coupling and reduce cancellations.
I'm planning on replacing the stock fiberboard with some carpeted plywood or MDF. I want to take out the spare tire and place two amps and a cap in there.
Question - Any overheating problems with placing the amps underneath the false floors?
Mine is fan cooled as 4 of the 5 channels are class A/B and JL's are not known for their efficiency beings that they are pretty tightly regulated. That being said I disconnected my fans last fall and have been watching the heat to see how much I can throttle them back.
I hate to admit it but I may compete a couple times this year.
Keep in mind that my false floor is fractions of an inch above the amplifier, it's VERY TIGHT in there. if you are going to use the whole well, for a couple amps then I think they should do OK as long as you keep the impedances reasonable and run sensibly. You don't need a cap, save that money and buy a better AGM battery, the whole car will thank you.
Thanks Chad.
I have double coverage on roadside assistance, plus the gf has AAA so I'm basically triple covered. I rarely drive too far outside of the city, so I don't mind dealing without a spare. I already have one amp installed (the sub amp) and mounted to back of the rear seat. It practically takes up the whole thing, hence wanting to just put everything in the spare tire well. Both amps will be running at 4 Ohms. Not doing anything spectacular, just a total of 1200W RMS to front, rear and sub. The only reason I was worried about cooling is because the amp right now can occasionally run pretty damned hot - especially after blaring for about an hour while sitting in traffic.
As far as the Cap, I already have it.. Just need to install it. I plan on upgrading the factory grounds to 1/0 AWG as well as attempting a DIY on the battery <-> fusebox positive lead like you had in your old post. The main reason for the cap was for orderly wire distribution (I didn't really want to use blocks or have grounds going all over) and overflow power capacity.
The battery is fine so far, only the slightest hint of dimming on the tach lights. There's no headunit or headlight dimming at all. I'll stick with the Duralast Gold until I kill the mofo. Once it's dead I plan on either going your route with the Stinger or maybe trying out a Kinetik.
Well when it comes to cooling, you can always run it, if it gets hot go down that road when you need to. I hear you on the cap for distro, in the PS thread I just posted you will see my "rednek distro" that consists of welding lugs, a nut some washers and a bolt :D
Your saving grace now is the 4 ohm final impedances, good man, the quest to run an amp within an inch of it's life drives me batty. Of you want to go 4Ga on the grounds you will be fine, no reason for overkill, several short runs of 4 ga can carry staggering amounts of current and are easier to deal with. they also don't work loose as easily because the wire is lighter.