Well....
I got my new ECU back today. Mine is out being reprogrammed, and I have a demo ECU with the imobilizer codes removed, so I can drive it while the flash is being done. The fix was to retard the timing by 3 deg. to eliminate the detonation above 6500rpms.
Once in, I took a trip to St. Thomas to test it out on the track.
My best time was 15.201 my worst was 15.333
I did 10 runs and was constantly spinning off the start. The trouble I feel is with my tires and traction. The engine mounts work
WELL! and the hondata flash is not noticeably diff. from the origional.
I finished up in St. Thomas, content that I could not break into the 14s and went back to Missy. (knowing dam well that if I had better tires, I would be doing 14's consistantly) Once I got to Miss., I jumped on Paul's(hondata) new dyno and wanted to check if the detonation was eliminated with
the new flash. Unfortunately he does not have the ability to record his info on a graph just yet, so we had to watch analog and digital readings in real time. I listened closely and could not detect any detonation. (wish I had a graph) Kind of a silly way to judge for now, but did hit 165whp. Paul let off before the limiter, because he
felt that the solonoids(load cells) were not doing any good for my engine past 7500rpms (I agreed).
Not much power is made after 7500rpms, even with the flash.
Next step for myself is the JRSC. I will likely have it early June.
Look for the dyno results then. Cheers fellow ephatchers.:D
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 04-12-2003 at 10:11 PM.
165hp!?!
Where you using the same dyno as in:
http://ephatch.com/forum/showthread....myeverlovinsir
There you got 146-148HP with the first flash. Did you do something else (engine wise) to the car between the 146-148HP and the 165hp? Or where the dynos different?
myeverlovinsir,
What kind of dyno did you run on for your 165hp run? DynaPack? DynoJet? Other? If it was on a DynaPack I can understand you getting that number. If it was a DynoJet, I just might have to buy one! These were corrected numbers weren't they?
Thanks,
Kurtis
You nailed it, the dyno's are different. Paul has a 4 wheel dyno that is similar to a dynopack setup (torsional solonoid sampling sensors) All my other dynos were done at F&F where they use dynojet (inertial)Originally posted by FailureToStop
165hp!?!
Where you using the same dyno as in:
http://ephatch.com/forum/showthread....myeverlovinsir
There you got 146-148HP with the first flash. Did you do something else (engine wise) to the car between the 146-148HP and the 165hp? Or where the dynos different?
As you may already know, you can expect near 10whp diff. (in the positive direction) when comparing dynopack to dynojet. This is where the extra hp showed up, I suspect. Still felt relatively the same on the road. I will need to get back on the same dynojet dyno to determine the detonation situ. soon. ;)
P.S. the origional dyno day we (link you included) ran, had corrected numbers @ 154whp on the dynojet for me. I suspect I am somewhere near that now anyways. Not much has changed.
Am gonna take a quantum leap with JRSC and be done with power issues. I guess I could also mention that with the JRSC...
Doug (Hondata) is currently testing a 10-12psi setup. (soon to also be released) It's a pully change and hondata tune combination. Also for those contemplating going the JRSC route, you will also need to upgrade your injectors to the type-s size. Don't quote me, it's late and think they are in the 340cc range. we are 280. again don't quote me. I will correct these numbers. But that should be all that needs to be done. Cheers.:D
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 04-12-2003 at 10:20 PM.
myeverlovinsir: I am sort of confused by your statement saying that the solenoids weren't good for your engine past 7500 RPM. What are these solenoids? Were you implying that the engine can't handle/shouldn't be revved to its 7700 RPM revlimit?
Also, what do you say about the value of the $600 pricetag of the Hondata flash?
The dyno that Paul has uses solenoids that are set up to fire each second (it may be adjusted), these solenoids are used to apply a load to the turning drum as your car is on the dyno. This sample rate (1/sec) is used to measure/plot the calculated Velocity of the drums (for each tire), Torque and derived HP readings. He shut them off after 7500 by hand while doing the run, so the load would not be applied to the drums and ultimately my tires and engine.Originally posted by anjapower
myeverlovinsir: I am sort of confused by your statement saying that the solenoids weren't good for your engine past 7500 RPM. What are these solenoids? Were you implying that the engine can't handle/shouldn't be revved to its 7700 RPM revlimit?
Also, what do you say about the value of the $600 pricetag of the Hondata flash?
Value wise I will keep my Hondata for sheer fun to drive. It will cost me less to upgrade it later (JRSC). I think that much more serious mods need to be done in order to
get the huge gains, such as head swap, turbo, SC. I wont say 600 is outrageous, but it does keep the wanabies on the fence doesn't it!;)
Are you running stock tires? I suppose that could be your main problem for the track....what kind of 60' times were you getting...and also what were you trapping at? Oh well, 165 is a very nice number :) Lol, and yes, that 600 dollar price tag does keep the wanabies on the fence :(
myeverlovinsir: what were your trap speeds in your recent trip to the track?
You are such a fool.Originally posted by ADAMnQuickCIVIC
If you plan on staying all motor and have $600 to blow, yea it's a good mod (way overpriced), as long as the detonation issue has been resolved.
I'm just saying there's no way in hell a raised rev limit + "maybe" 5-10 hp will knock a full second off your 0-60 time.
Impossible.
Anyone who takes anywhere near a full second to shift, shit anyone who takes more than 1-2 tenths between shifts obviously cant drive in the first place.
When you are shifting from 1st to 2nd you hit your rev limit and bam you are at what? 39 mph or some shit right? Well if you had another 1500 rpms to use (in each gear), don't you think that would put you more around 45, and even more so, YOU HAVE more rpms in 1st and in 2nd, don't you have better gearing thru 1st and 2nd ? isnt 3rd a lower gear that you don't pull as hard in as you do in first and 2nd.
So to conclude, the gain of 1 sec 0-60 is because you achive more MPH in a higher gear, for a longer wind out, instead of winding each gear out at 1500 rpm's less (stock) and having to shift into 3rd gear.
The time is not saved on shifting, the time is saved on spending more acceleration time in higher gears which make you move faster. Rather then less time in higher gears, you will hit 60 mph before as you top out in 2nd, where w/o hondata you hit 60 mph and keep going, doesnt this make any sense come on fellas. That's also why with hondata in 3rd gear you hit 90 rather then w/o honda you hit 82-83 in 3rd w/ just intake.
It improves the 0-60 time very nicely1
Originally posted by sniperSI
When you are shifting from 1st to 2nd you hit your rev limit and bam you are at what? 39 mph or some shit right? Well if you had another 1500 rpms to use (in each gear), don't you think that would put you more around 45, and even more so, YOU HAVE more rpms in 1st and in 2nd, don't you have better gearing thru 1st and 2nd ? isnt 3rd a lower gear that you don't pull as hard in as you do in first and 2nd.
You.......got it right, but also missed it entirely at the same time.
I think the hondata gives us an extra...hmm...~1000ish RPM to play with, which means we can take each gear up to a higher speed, like you said. However, the drop in time IS because of shifting. You said it yourself. Re-read what you said.
Hey here you pretty much nailed it....but then u go on to contradict yourself hereSo to conclude, the gain of 1 sec 0-60 is because you achive more MPH in a higher gear, for a longer wind out, instead of winding each gear out at 1500 rpm's less (stock) and having to shift into 3rd gear.
Spending more acceleration time in your gears....means you don't have to shift as much. Second tops out before 60, but with a couple hundred extra RPM, 60 is attainable in 2nd gear which saves you time of shifting, the increased HP helps you get there faster as well. However, the added part to the powerband reaches max power relatively close to the stock redline, so riding it up to the added fuel cut off won't help too much for acceleration. Also, what does having an intake have to do with gear top speeds?The time is not saved on shifting, the time is saved on spending more acceleration time in higher gears which make you move faster. Rather then less time in higher gears, you will hit 60 mph before as you top out in 2nd
damnit i hate it when i'm right, then wrong. then right, then wrong.
Thanks ;) i'm 1/2 a moron
Hehe don't worry about it. I'm not even sure how accurate my explanation is, cuz i suck ass at explaining things....but the concept is in my head. You had the right concept, it just needed to be thought of from a different perspective. We're all wrong periodically too btw ;)
yea, I'm the fool.Originally posted by sniperSI
You are such a fool.
When you are shifting from 1st to 2nd you hit your rev limit and bam you are at what? 39 mph or some shit right? Well if you had another 1500 rpms to use (in each gear), don't you think that would put you more around 45, and even more so, YOU HAVE more rpms in 1st and in 2nd, don't you have better gearing thru 1st and 2nd ? isnt 3rd a lower gear that you don't pull as hard in as you do in first and 2nd.
So to conclude, the gain of 1 sec 0-60 is because you achive more MPH in a higher gear, for a longer wind out, instead of winding each gear out at 1500 rpm's less (stock) and having to shift into 3rd gear.
The time is not saved on shifting, the time is saved on spending more acceleration time in higher gears which make you move faster. Rather then less time in higher gears, you will hit 60 mph before as you top out in 2nd, where w/o hondata you hit 60 mph and keep going, doesnt this make any sense come on fellas. That's also why with hondata in 3rd gear you hit 90 rather then w/o honda you hit 82-83 in 3rd w/ just intake.
why dont you read what you just wrote, err BLABBED.
you just contradicted yourself.
you just don't understand what it takes to knock a full second off your 0-60 mph time.
been drag racing long? doubt it.
i'm not saying hondata won't help your 0-60, i'm saying it WILL NOT knock off a full second.
PS: *ANY* drop in 0-60mph is due almost ENTIRELY to saving the 2-3 shift. If you look at the dyno graph you will see the power drops off right after the factory 6800rpm redline.
aye i was still more right then you bitch.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks