OK, heres what the plan is. I'm gonna build one prototype, and probably another after I dyno it to get some improvements to the design (this is how everything I do goes... first one to do it, then one to make it better)
After that, I'll know if its worth doing for money, but I'm always glad to share plans and time to help you make one on your own.
So maybe when I get the first one done, you can help me make two improved versions.
yeah man, just let me know. i am a graphic designer, so my craft skills have been honed to perfection. plus i worked in a bike shop as a mechanic for about five years. i would love to help you build some cool shit. my email at work is caseyj@tocquigny.com. so hit me when youre ready.
It would be cool if you copy the Neuspeed P-Flo intake and sell it for $100. Sure beats the $240 they want for theirs.
Yours look very similar except their heat shield is stainless steel rather than epoxy like you plan on yours.
They also have 2 filters in place.
Yes, It is going to be similar to the neuspeed, (especially since I chickened out on the crank-case bung, and plan to use a mini-filter too). The epoxy setup will resist heat way better than stainless steel.
Here's the ugly result of my foray into fiberglassing:
It needs sanding and painting now, then I hope to get the box done next weekend. The epoxy resin is the key here, to making it strong, along with offsetting the weave 45 degrees each layer (4 layers). The epoxy is a breeze to work with, doesnt smell (actually smells less than JBWeld does) and it gives you plenty of time to rework. I started with using fancy fiberglassing tools, but ended up using my hands to shape the last parts...its alot easier, just have at least 1 pair of latex gloves per layer at your disposal.
BigCase, my degree is in art, too, and I minored in engineering design, and it came in handy, as I discovered fiberglassing is like sclupting. Its definitely an artform for people who appreiciate industrial design. BTW I learned some cool stuff about ABS plastic fabrication that I want to try out too.
yeah, my degree is in graphic design. no minor though. doing a project like the one you are doing scares me to death though. i took some sculpting in college, but was never really good with my hands. i guess if i would have practiced, i could have been good, but was too busy racing my bike. i want to do my headlights but i am petrified of screwing them up. man, i would like to see the finished product in person when youre done. dude, i painted my factory wheels black this weekend. was a bigger job than i expected. finished results look sick. we need to get an austin meet together soon. oh and check this out, my dad is getting a silver Si this week. hilarious. he loved mine so much that he wants one now. will the wonders of this car ever cease!!? keep up the good work.
nice blastech :) I had no idea you were that good at this stuff. We gotta meet up at an autoxing event when I get back.
Thanks! thats the first thing I ever did with fiberglass, but I've done all kinds of art and construction projects all my life. I just love to make stuff and learn new skills. :)
To continue my research for the intake project, I purchased a digital thermometer with the teperature sensor on a wire.
I ran this from the engine compartment right where I want the opening to the airbox to be to right above my steering column.
Going to work today, I noticed a variance from 70 (when moving) to 90 degrees (at stoplights). After shutting the car off at work, the temperature imeadiately climbed to above 100 within a couple of minutes. I plan to leave the sensor there for a week, to get a feel for the average temps in that area.
Next is to move the sensor to the inlet at the front and compare its performance, as well as any other inlet spots I think might be suitable... including the one that Chronic is using on his "ghetto" airbox mod.
doing this process is going to prolong the project, but the research should pay off if I find a spot with the lowest idle/bleed temp, as auto-x has alot of idle/bleed time between the short runs.
Last edited by BlasTech; 04-29-2003 at 07:59 AM.
blastech - Could you possibly measure the ambient tempt. at the same time you are reporting the engine compartment tempt?
It is my understanding that the engine compartment tempt. is actually pretty close to ambient tempt. If this is true then it stands to reason why SRI and CAI do not improve performance much other than the sound affect. Well, maybe a little coz' more air gets in compared to the stock box. But that's about it.
Maybe you can get another thermometer. Hang the dongle at the front grill there the air enters the engine compartment.
I generally at least know the ambient temp when I get in the car, So that helps. I'll give it a week and see what the differences are. I think this data is really going to help me get the coldest air possible...even if it means sticking with the stock input location...
Man you are putting some hard work into this. I have to say it is great to see some one say they can do better and do it. When you get this done and if you still want to make more I might buy one. I can not wait to see the finished product.
My wife and I talked about the costs/logistics of producing them a few at a time out of the garage. I'm looking at off-the-shelf ABS tubing now that I know the under-hood temps are looking safer for it, definitely an easier build, but the box will definitely be fberglass with insulation.
The more data I can get from my own research and dynos of similar products the better.
Great R&D work...I recently started a R&D job and we use a lot of temperature probes on our prototypes. I'm looking forward to seeing more...I have a K&N Typhoon and it would be cool to see if your IceBox out performs it. If it does, $80 is a great deal & I would more than likely get it.
Hey, it'd be less if you already have the $40 filter from your Typhoon!
I just got a couple of new ideas, too. One, from the SSR CTR, is the possibility of a cold air source than encloses the entire battery, and has a short tube with a filter right there on the TB... that may block air coming into the rest of the engine bay. I'll have to do some sketches.
So far it looks like the back corner of the battery stays 1-4 degrees above ambient when running (quite soon after start) and 20-30degrees above ambient when idling.
I assume than isolating that air moreso with an enclosure that draws from the AEM-INJEN spot will be cooler.
Here's a development photochop, while I wait for weather and other conditions to be right for moving on..
The top of the box has been cutaway to clarify the internal parts. The entire top of the box will be covered, as well as the passenger side, back, and front.
The goal is to have the filter only get air from the corner behind the battery, and the rear corner back by the wheel well. Both of these areas are used by various intake companies. It is entirely cut off from the front radiator, as well as the header air.
The result should be a SRI that doesnt suffer the heat soak that most SRI's do, without any risk of hydrolock.
I'll try to find a way to attach the box to the chassis, and not the motor, which will allow for closer tolerance to its surrounding parts, meaning better air isolation.
The final product will have all the corners rounded out, unlike the illustration above.
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