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  1. #1
    00sir
    Guest

    Thumbs up Part Numbers for RSX-S Swaybar and extras...

    Here is what I just ordered for tommorrows delivery.

    1. rsx-s rear swaybar #5230056ma01
    2. 2 bushings #5230656ma01
    3. 2 holders 1@52308563000 1@5230956m000 (i think he said they were different for right and left side)

    That is much cheaper than the mugen rear sway, and hopefully will not tear up the frame.

    Mine should be in the morning.. will install
    friday...

    Take Care,

    Steven (00sir)

  2. #2
    Canuck
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    Ontario, Canada
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    1,508
    really, my part numbers are totally different, hmmm, strange. I didn't order the bushing holders as the stock ones should be the same as the RSX-S, I'll know tonight though, in case it can save someone else a few bucks.

    Joey

  3. #3
    00sir
    Guest

    Well I called back...

    David Mc David Acura Group 4051 W Plano Pkwy, Plano, TX 75093
    Phone: (972) 964-6000
    the part numbers are correct except...

    1. rsx-s rear swaybar #52300S6ma01
    2. 2 bushings #52306S6ma01
    3. 2 holders 1@52308563000 1@52309S6m000 (i think he said they were different for right and left side)

    The 5's in last 6 digits were S's.. Sorry that is my fault. But I had him double check for the RSX-type S. and it is a 19mm swaybar or stabilizer bar.

    Hope this helps, I hate when I get the numbers wrong.

    Sorry,

  4. #4
    Canuck
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    well I just finished the install, total time about 45 minutes, a bit longer if you take your time. Just did it in my garage using basic hand tools and jack stands. It helps if you are familiar with Honda endlinks and how they operate, you need to use an allen key - 5mm - to hold the endlink bolt while you undo the lock nut to get it off the stock bar. Keep track of which endlinks go on which side as they can be different, and keep track of which way the stock bar comes off the car so you can line up the new bar with it and use the correct endlinks. One nut was real tight where the endlink meets the frame, I thought it would strip but I got it off using a breaker bar. It helps to lube the bolts before you pull them off too.

    I re-used the stock bushing holder plates - 2 they seem to fit fine, I am sure they are the same part as the RSX-S plates,same code on them too, may save you a few bucks re-using them instead of buying new. Gonna go test drive it now, will have a report shortly.

    Joey
    Last edited by JSIR; 08-14-2002 at 05:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Canuck
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
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    just finished test driving the new sway bar. These words should sum it all up - Understeer = All Gone , Body Roll = All Gone. Feels just about perfect. Point the front end and the rear comes around nicely, what body roll was left in the car is now pretty much gone. You can get a touch of oversteer now hard in corners, but still feels very safe. I don't see the need to go with any bar larger than this. To go with a bigger bar may give you too much oversteer, maybe a tad dangerous for the average driver. But 19mm seems perfect. No squeaks or clunking noises. I'm going to loosen and re-torque the holder plate bolts now after the first drive and with the full weight of the car on the bar, should re-set the bar if there was any change after initial install.
    That's it, if anyone needs any info on this mod, just give me a shout.

    Joey

  6. #6
    ephatch member ortedd's Avatar
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    Jul 2002
    Location
    seattle, wa
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    360
    how much $?

  7. #7
    wu343
    Guest
    Do you have any other mods with the sway bar or just the stock springs?

  8. #8
    Canuck
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    Jul 2002
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
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    this is my first suspension mod on this car, so stock springs and shocks. I have Pro-kit springs on the way but not installed yet.

  9. #9
    wu343
    Guest
    let us know what happens after the spring install

  10. #10
    DRIVER 02blksi's Avatar
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    Aug 2002
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    Northeast Region
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    price???? for everything?

    also im pretty compitent when it comes to workin on cars although i have never ventured into the suspension (ie changing sway bars) on a scale of 1-10 10 being the hardest what would you give this mod? any special tools needed? and also do you have any pics of the bar installed? thanks BTW what is the rear diameter of the stock si sway? thanks again--joe

  11. #11
    00sir
    Guest

    Thumbs up Prices...and a big THANKS!

    Price for part # 52300s6ma01 $75.20
    Price for part # 52306s6ma01 $5.28 x 2
    Price for part # 52308s6m000 $4.88
    Price for part # 52309s6m000 $4.88

    Total price = 85.76 before tax if you leave out the last two holders...

    Total price = 95.52 before tax with two new holders.


    JSIR.... Thanks a million for the information and the install notes. I will go grab some alan wrenches at lunch to make sure I have everything I need. I guess I better round up the old breaker bar as well.

    Thanks again,

  12. #12
    DRIVER 02blksi's Avatar
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    thanks for the great post im going right now to my local acura dealership :) --joe

  13. #13
    Canuck
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    Jul 2002
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    as far as suspension mods go this is by far the easiest mod to do. In terms of difficulty, I would say a 4-5 max. . Just keep track of where the endlinks mount, and how the bar is oriented before you take it all apart, so you get the right endlink on the right side of the bar. Once you get the locknuts tightened down they are a pain to remove again, and you don't want to strip an endlink, so get it right the first time. The bar comes off the car very easily. The endlink attaches to chasis behind the brake rotor, so remove both rear wheels and put the car on jack stands. I used a breaker bar with long extension and 14mm socket to access and break loose the nut on the endlink bolt at the chasis attachment point (both sides). I then take the stock sway bar with the two endlinks attached and insert it into a bench vise to hold it steady. Use a 5 mm Allen key into the end of the endlink bolt, and loosen the locknut with a 14mm box end wrench holding everything firmly. If you just use a 14mm socket on the locknut, the endlink bolt may just rotate with the locknut, so the Allen key is needed to hold the bolt steady.

    To mount the holder plates to the subframe with the rubber bushings I used 20 ft lbs torque value, and I used 40 ft lbs to tighten the nut on the chasis attachment point of the endlink (behind the brake rotor). For the endlink locknut on the sway bar I just snugged it down firm. Be careful not to strip any of the nuts. I don't have any pics right now its kind of tight area getting under the car. I will see if I can get some, if anyone needs any info or assistance feel free to contact me.

    oh yeah, stock sway bar is 15mm, RSX-S bar is 19mm. I really love this mod though. I had one of those 22mm Mugen/ITR bars on my 99 Civic SiR , and I don't want to get into that mess again, I would rather have this bar and enjoy it reliably.

  14. #14
    00sir
    Guest

    Thumbs up thanks again...

    I justed picked up my parts.. Ohhh yes, friday morning unless I get called into work...

    JSIR--Thanks again for all the tool recomendations... I know this is not rocket science but it is fun being on the bleeding edge a bit. I guess this makes you the first person to have performed the swap. Congrats...

    I hopefully will be the second...

    Take Care...!

  15. #15
    Canuck
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    Jul 2002
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    thanks, I would have expected someone else to have completed this mod before me, but I don't mind being first.

    I really would like to know how the two mounting plates end up looking, and why they have a left & right one. If you get a chance give them a good looking over and let us know if they look any different than stock. Last time I was under an RSX-S they looked the same to me and had the same code stamped into them. If they are different it may be worth getting for the relatively low cost. Keep us informed. thanks.

    Joey

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