Yes, I could but I might confuse you.Originally posted by beansbear
heya ep...
can you answer my other question about the emanage "letter" settings?
Apparently, someone from Greddy began to tell people to switch it to "D". That was suppose to be for the RSXs only. Switching your emanage to "D" will eliminate the code 14 that it throws BUT your car wont have a steady idle at 2500rpm.
Unforunately, the way the emanage came, was right. So now, my emanage is back to "E" and Im having the code14.
That code 14 means that your purple wire coming from the black lil box is not getting connectoion, but mine was, Kenji saw it. Kenji is suppose to get back to me ASAP as soon as he heres something from Japan.
Bottom line, its up to you where you want the letter for now. If you put it on "D" the code will go away but you dont have a steady idle at 2500rpm. If you put it on "E" youll have a smooth and steady idle but with the emanage throwing a false code(unless your wire is really not getting connection).
is that why when i drive in traffic using first gear it feels like the clutch is slipping...
hmmmm i think i will put it back to D for now and see how that is.
thanks for the info! Hope Kenji gets this fixed soon. would be cool if he posted updates here the way he does at ClubRSX...
shit, I've been looking all over the damn place for that :o I was disconnecting the damn battery. much easier..thanks :DOriginally posted by beansbear
in the engine
there is a fusebox near the intake
open it.
look for the the 15amp ecu fuse
pull it
let the car sit for 10 minutes
put it back in
start your car and let it idle for 10 minutes
dont touch the accel or turn on the ac
that should do it.
its a bitch for me because my j's racing strut tower blocks it. I have to unbolt it each time to reset it. im just happy with it on now. *sigh*
Does this code 14 cause the check engine light to come on? Or just the red light on the black box to blink?Originally posted by ep_nezay
Yes, I could but I might confuse you.
Apparently, someone from Greddy began to tell people to switch it to "D". That was suppose to be for the RSXs only. Switching your emanage to "D" will eliminate the code 14 that it throws BUT your car wont have a steady idle at 2500rpm.
Unforunately, the way the emanage came, was right. So now, my emanage is back to "E" and Im having the code14.
That code 14 means that your purple wire coming from the black lil box is not getting connectoion, but mine was, Kenji saw it. Kenji is suppose to get back to me ASAP as soon as he heres something from Japan.
Bottom line, its up to you where you want the letter for now. If you put it on "D" the code will go away but you dont have a steady idle at 2500rpm. If you put it on "E" youll have a smooth and steady idle but with the emanage throwing a false code(unless your wire is really not getting connection).
code 14 is only for the emanage.
YES! My wife told me about it, but I didnt believe her, until I drove itOriginally posted by beansbear
is that why when i drive in traffic using first gear it feels like the clutch is slipping......
Last edited by ep_nezay; 10-18-2003 at 10:47 AM.
Yea, just disconnent your "ECU" fuse from your engine bay. I use to disconnect it for 30sec.-1min and put in back in. That way you dont erase all your memory stations on your radio;)Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
shit, I've been looking all over the damn place for that :o I was disconnecting the damn battery. much easier..thanks :D
Last edited by ep_nezay; 10-18-2003 at 10:49 AM.
No, it shouldnt. Just the light on the emanage.Originally posted by vtecnrg
Does this code 14 cause the check engine light to come on? Or just the red light on the black box to blink?
I went into the shop today and they checked the check engine light. Apparently it was the 1st O-2 sensor stating the fuel mixture was too rich. They reset it for me. Thanks everyone for the help with reseting the ECU and my code 14 questions.
Now time for question #2. When I start the car I get a small puff of smoke. Same while accelerating when under boost (my wife was driving behind me). The shop said that this is part of the break in period and that the turbo has been coated with something that is burning off. Has any one else had this experience? If so does it go away?
Question #3 - When accelerating in boost and only with a light throttle I hear a rattling. It reminds me of a heat shield that lost a spot weld on my crx. The shop test drove the car and they could hear the rattling on the drivers side but they could not find anything loose. I was in a bit of a rush and they only had the car for an hour. The shop owner said he thought it may be the transmission since the engine shifts under boost and that may be causing the noise. I hope he's wrong. And encouraged me to return the car when I had more time to leave it with them. Has any one experienced or heard of this situation? Any other ideas? The shop said it was definatly not detonation or valve noise. I believe them b/c the car is running very well. I am hooked on boost. :D
i hear the same thing as well in gear under slight low. i thought at first it was detonation but i'm almost positive its not. I think its either a shield or the turbo itself.
Maybe when my intercooler comes in it will go away.
#2- What color is the smoke? White or Black? The only thing I had when it was installed, was a weird smell, that was the coating burning off. But coming out of your exhaust? Thats not the coating IMO.
Two more things, have you checked your emanage for any codes? And did the shop solder the wiring?
#3- Check your turbo heatshield if its loose. Or, you can take it off to try and pin piont the problem. So if it goes away, it was the heatshield, if it doesnt ,take it to a different location.
NOTE: I had some weird noises once in awhile before the IC, almost like if it was detonating. But it was not detonation, it was too hot of an intake charge, for not having any other cooling source.
Last edited by ep_nezay; 10-18-2003 at 08:28 PM.
I checked and the connection are soldered and also no blinking light. I also asked my wife about the smoke color and she said brown? I have pin pointed that the noise mostly occur during the first ten minutes or so. I am not boosting hard but any boost makes the sound. Once it has warmed up no more noise.
BTW I filled up with gas (premium of course) 26.2 mpg.
Last edited by vtecnrg; 10-20-2003 at 01:55 PM.
Brown? It was probably black, that means its running rich.
So you are not getting any codes from your emanage? Your installer opened it then.
BTW- You have a boost gauge right? What are you boosting?
Ive have really been doing my research lately and I have decided to go with the greddy kit. I wanted to install the FMIC at the same time becuase its a night and day difference. How much do you think the whole setup would cost just a ball park figure with the FMIC setup and installed. Anyone have some idea?
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