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  1. #166
    FUCK you! I like 'em!! esmith13's Avatar
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    GREAT PICS!! :D

    So - How long did it take ya? Any problems? Any prying the engine??

    Eric

  2. #167
    zzzzzz myeverlovinsir's Avatar
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    Originally posted by esmith13
    GREAT PICS!! :D

    So - How long did it take ya? Any problems? Any prying the engine??

    Eric
    Those pics are from the tranny install. The ES mounts have been in over a year. I got mine just after bioevolve.;)

    No prying the engine when you drop the subframe.

  3. #168
    FUCK you! I like 'em!! esmith13's Avatar
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    Ah, cool. Thanks again for the pics and the comforting "no prying" words for these chickens here ;)

    Maybe now they'll see the light and get this install done!!

    Eric :D

  4. #169
    ephatch member yellerep3's Avatar
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    Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
    Those pics are from the tranny install. The ES mounts have been in over a year. I got mine just after bioevolve.;)

    No prying the engine when you drop the subframe.

    hey, what kind of transmission upgrade did you do, mine sux, did you do the clutch, or change it altogether. i need to do something to mine, doesnt feel smooth, any suggestions>?
    Last edited by yellerep3; 03-06-2004 at 08:19 AM.

  5. #170
    ephatch member BISDAK-R's Avatar
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    hey esmith those are some great infro, i'm thinking of ordering mine soon and installing it during spring break, you think you can post some detailed info on the easiet way to di this, like a "HOW TO" with step by step cuz from what i'm hearing the k-series instructions will take longer to do, Thans a lot man.

  6. #171
    Buy a new couch! andy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BISDAK-R
    hey esmith those are some great infro, i'm thinking of ordering mine soon and installing it during spring break, you think you can post some detailed info on the easiet way to di this, like a "HOW TO" with step by step cuz from what i'm hearing the k-series instructions will take longer to do, Thans a lot man.
    Well, myeverlovinsir just totally took the wind out of my sails on
    this install. heheheh, j/k nice pics myeverlovin. that's going to
    help on mine.

    Steve (k-series.com) said he'd help me with mine and he'll likely
    write up an install doing it this way. Look for it next week.

  7. #172
    ephatch member BISDAK-R's Avatar
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    allright cool, im gona ordering mine this monday so hopefully by the time it gets here the instructions are up, I hear droping that piece makes the install a lot easier.

  8. #173
    zzzzzz myeverlovinsir's Avatar
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    Be sure to mark the spots where the subframe is before you remove it, or you may require an alignment as well;)

  9. #174
    Buy a new couch! andy's Avatar
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    OK. You lying bastards had me convinced that dropping the subframe
    was easy and the way to go. Liars! :yellm:

    Hahaha...j/k. It was "easier", but it wasn't easy. Mainly b/c I just
    didn't know what to do (or in what order to do it), so I started
    unbolting most of everything I saw.
    Then, I didn't realize I had to unbolt the rear mount from above,
    so that caused a major delay. Things never work right for me...heh.

    Anyway, the mounts have made a *huge* difference. I haven't taken
    off from a dead stop yet, but the 1->2 shift at 7K now generates a
    tiny squeel, instead of nasty wheel hop and massive spin (new tires
    are helping, too).
    The vibration when I first got in the car was shocking - I just didn't
    expect it to be that noticeable. Not that I mind, it was just surprising.

    I have to go back under the car and retorque everything, tighten my
    front sway bar and install the double X brace. When I do, I'll take
    some pics and try to write up a decent DIY guide. In retrospect, I
    could probably do another set of mounts in 2 hours, if I had someone
    helping.

    myeverlovingsir, how did you get the lower arm off the suspension
    knuckle? I had a hell of a time trying to pull that cotter pin thing
    out and ended up just loosening the sway bar to generate enough
    space to slide the inserts in. So the subframe never came all the
    way off (which in some ways, might have helped).

  10. #175
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by andy
    OK. You lying bastards had me convinced that dropping the subframe
    was easy and the way to go. Liars! :yellm:

    Hahaha...j/k. It was "easier", but it wasn't easy. Mainly b/c I just
    didn't know what to do (or in what order to do it), so I started
    unbolting most of everything I saw.
    Then, I didn't realize I had to unbolt the rear mount from above,
    so that caused a major delay. Things never work right for me...heh.

    Anyway, the mounts have made a *huge* difference. I haven't taken
    off from a dead stop yet, but the 1->2 shift at 7K now generates a
    tiny squeel, instead of nasty wheel hop and massive spin (new tires
    are helping, too).
    The vibration when I first got in the car was shocking - I just didn't
    expect it to be that noticeable. Not that I mind, it was just surprising.

    I have to go back under the car and retorque everything, tighten my
    front sway bar and install the double X brace. When I do, I'll take
    some pics and try to write up a decent DIY guide. In retrospect, I
    could probably do another set of mounts in 2 hours, if I had someone
    helping.

    myeverlovingsir, how did you get the lower arm off the suspension
    knuckle? I had a hell of a time trying to pull that cotter pin thing
    out and ended up just loosening the sway bar to generate enough
    space to slide the inserts in. So the subframe never came all the
    way off (which in some ways, might have helped).
    Wow, I guess it was a little pain in the butt. Last install for me using the k-series DIY method was under 2 hours.

    Glad to hear you like them Andy!

    Mel

  11. #176
    ephatch member BISDAK-R's Avatar
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    really? so using the k-series instructions gets faster install?

  12. #177
    Registered User arctic-k20's Avatar
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    es & mugen ??

    Has anybody considered using the ES mount for the rear and using the Mugen mounts for the rest?? I am considering this method right now.

    Yes you lose ultra tight es feeling but it should also get rid of all the vibes but still hold the engine in place...

    any thoughts??

  13. #178
    zzzzzz myeverlovinsir's Avatar
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    Once you have removed the stabilizer link from the lower arm and got the locking pin out, the castle nut should be easy. In order to disconnect the lower arm from the nuckle you need a ball joint remover. I highly recommend you have the manual before you attempt to remove your subframe. ;)

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