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  1. #1
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    Question best struts for ep3

    my struts r gone & am in need for new ones. what r u'r suspension setups (springs, struts)? pixs would be nice. thanks!

  2. #2
    Miss being a mod raiyo's Avatar
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    No pics, but don't bother with mix matching with some aftermarket stuff. Get some stuff that are factory built. Mugen, Tein, KW, Apexi, etc. Pay alittle more and get a better ride.

  3. #3
    ephatch member 02SilverSiHB's Avatar
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    yeah, there are no striaght bolt on struts out there...koni only makes inserts for the strut, and a tad needs to be modified for the rear.

    Get the mugen suspension, it's more than the koni, but less work...also isn't adjustable like koni, but if you don't care for that, I'd go mugen.

  4. #4
    Hi-Tech Redneck HondaMan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
    yeah, there are no striaght bolt on struts out there...koni only makes inserts for the strut, and a tad needs to be modified for the rear.

    Get the mugen suspension, it's more than the koni, but less work...also isn't adjustable like koni, but if you don't care for that, I'd go mugen.
    Go with the Tein Basics.

  5. #5
    ephatch member 02SilverSiHB's Avatar
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    Originally posted by HondaMan
    Go with the Tein Basics.
    NO! MUGEN! :D j/k

  6. #6
    Hi-Tech Redneck HondaMan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
    NO! MUGEN! :D j/k
    haha :p

  7. #7
    Blue Blur OWNZ YOU anjapower's Avatar
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    Hondaman, how is the mugen setup height wise compared to the progress springs you had (i think that's what you had). I have Eibach prokits that are at about a 2 finger gap front and back. I want to go lower, not higher with the next setup.

    Edit: wait you have the teins. How worried should I be that the basics don't have dampening adjustability? My car is a daily driver that will see autocrossing 5-7 times a year. It may sound dumb but I just can't get past the fact that if I want to become more competitive down the road, the basics will be a limiting factor. That's why I'm leaning towards atleast the Tein SS/KWs.
    Last edited by anjapower; 01-12-2004 at 07:03 PM.

  8. #8
    Hi-Tech Redneck HondaMan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by anjapower
    Hondaman, how is the mugen setup height wise compared to the progress springs you had (i think that's what you had). I have Eibach prokits that are at about a 2 finger gap front and back. I want to go lower, not higher with the next setup.

    Edit: wait you have the teins. How worried should I be that the basics don't have dampening adjustability? My car is a daily driver that will see autocrossing 5-7 times a year. It may sound dumb but I just can't get past the fact that if I want to become more competitive down the road, the basics will be a limiting factor. That's why I'm leaning towards atleast the Tein SS/KWs.
    Go with the Tein Flex or KW systems if you are that serious about AutoX. I think my Basics will be just fine for AutoX for now...I'm not worried about dampening...maybe if I get real good at it some day, but if that day comes I will be buying a 1989 Civic Si and modding it for AutoX.

  9. #9
    Blue Blur OWNZ YOU anjapower's Avatar
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    that's a good point...I don't wanna start winning championships, but would be nice to be somewhat competitive in the STS class.

  10. #10
    Registered User Eee Pee's Avatar
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    Originally posted by HondaMan
    I'm not worried about dampening...
    As my other car is a full out gutted E Prepared 94 hatch Autocross monster, take it from me, dampening is the most important part of the suspension.

    Stock class Nationally competitive cars are on $4000 shocks and stock springs...but that's a different story....

    I know of one particular EP3 with Tein Flexes that does dang good.
    These cars are so top heavy we need them low, real low.
    But low is a moot point without travel, so we need the body of the shock to be height adjustable.

    Do it right the first time, and save up (or splurge with that credit card) if your going to be serious.
    If you're like the rest of us Autocross weiners, it'll become a way of life...might as well do it right.

    Cheers.

  11. #11
    Blue Blur OWNZ YOU anjapower's Avatar
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    at what point does the bumpsteer issue become relevant when lowering? 1.5"? 2"? 2.5"?

    I wish the flex wasn't so expensive. I'd be comfortable with spending about 11-1200 in a few months time.

  12. #12
    ephatch member sd_ep3's Avatar
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    im rolling on tein ss. they are the shit. the ride is so smooth. its like riding on stock suspension but better!!

  13. #13
    Blue Blur OWNZ YOU anjapower's Avatar
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    I also need to worry about the rusting issue. They spray the roads with salt here in the northeast and the winters are pretty brutal.:(

  14. #14
    Hi-Tech Redneck HondaMan's Avatar
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    Corrosion should not be an issue with any of the Teins...they are made very well < www.tein.com >. I would have gone with the Tein Flex, but they are exspensive. I was doing good to get my wife to let me buy the Basics. :o

    At least the Tein Basics are height adjustable for corner weights tuning, which I plan to do this year.

    http://www.grmotorsports.com/cornerweight.html

  15. #15
    Registered User Eee Pee's Avatar
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    Originally posted by anjapower
    at what point does the bumpsteer issue become relevant when lowering? 1.5"? 2"? 2.5"?
    As soon as you get away from stock height actually.

    The further away from stock height, the worse it's going to get.

    I have some pictures somewhere where an ETCC EP3 (maybe it was RealTime's RSX) has relocated the tierod's balljoint (heim joint actually) to the other side of the mounting location.
    They might have a spacer in there too.

    I just can't seem to find it...

    The question is, how much bumpsteer can you notice, or tolerate?

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