Reply With QuoteI used a 20lb sledge and a small block of wood. After about 5-10 minutes it broke loose.
Hey all,
I am trying to install some coilover but I am having problems with the tie rod linkage ball joint to the strut. It don't seem to want move or come out at all. I tried hammering as Hondaman said in his how to but it won't come off. Am I not hitting it hard enough or am I missing something? Anyways, I tried to call up some local auto shops and they want $300 to $400 for the install w/ alignment. I think that is a rip off and will not pay that much for it. Anyone knows of some shop in Atlanta that will do for cheap price if I can't get the ball joint to come off?
I used a 20lb sledge and a small block of wood. After about 5-10 minutes it broke loose.
If you did not get the springs in and want to come to Montgomery, AL we will put them in for a lot less than what you were quoted. However, you probably have the springs in by now, but if you have any other troubles with your Si let me know. Shop number..334-215-3515....my name's Kenny
We need to get a meet together for the atlanta/montgomery area...do you know of any other ep's in the area???...We have get together's at my shop once a month. Free food, drinks, and entertainment....
Hey, I just wanted to ofer a little advice.
I've lowered two RSX's and the suspension is identical to ours.
One problem I ran into was this issue with the tierod/strut connection.
You must be sure not to damage the threads while using a hammer. If you are going to use a hammer, leave the nut threaded onto the end of the bolt. This will prevent mushrooming the threads which could keep you from getting the nut back on. Use a dead-blow mallot if you have one. If not you can pick one up at any auto parts store for about $12.
Be careful and try to use more finesse than force.
Good luck!
P.S. It's best once the strut is removed, not to let the weight of the rotor/caliper assembly hang on the axle. Use a string to hold it up. If you overlook this step, you could separate the CV joint on the axle.
This isn't a big deal, you'll just have to cut the CV boot band off, re-assemble the CV joint, grease it, and re-band the CV boot.
This most likely won't happen, just take 5 seconds to tie it up and you won't have to worry about it.
Last edited by DEXTERBASE; 10-13-2002 at 08:38 PM.
Thank guy for responding.
No, I haven't installed my coilovers yet but will try this weekend. I will try to use a sledge or dead blow mallet.
Dexterbase,
Too late. The axle fell out of the joint. I wasn't too hard to get it back in but when you can't get the tie rod to come off and the axle falls off, it kinda of pisses the hell out of ya.
As far as are there any other EP's in my area that I know.... I don't know any. I have seen maybe four EP's so far. One I saw on my way home from work had blackout lights and some customs wheels. The others were driven by a girl and a woman.
MinivanKilla,
Yeah, a ATL and Montgomery meet sounds good. How many EP's are in your area?
This is to the EP's in ATL.... who and where are you. Anybody live in Gwinnett County?
dude both of these things happened to me. luckily we got the cv joint back in with a little jimmying.Originally posted by DEXTERBASE
Hey, I just wanted to ofer a little advice.
You must be sure not to damage the threads while using a hammer. If you are going to use a hammer, leave the nut threaded onto the end of the bolt. This will prevent mushrooming the threads which could keep you from getting the nut back on. Use a dead-blow mallot if you have one. If not you can pick one up at any auto parts store for about $12.
...
P.S. It's best once the strut is removed, not to let the weight of the rotor/caliper assembly hang on the axle. Use a string to hold it up. If you overlook this step, you could separate the CV joint on the axle.
This isn't a big deal, you'll just have to cut the CV boot band off, re-assemble the CV joint, grease it, and re-band the CV boot.
This most likely won't happen, just take 5 seconds to tie it up and you won't have to worry about it.but we fucked up the threads on the steering arm after hammering it for about 20 minutes. we got a dremel and tried to make new threads and eventually tried to cut the damn thing off (alittle before that hole of course). nothing worked we gave up and i took it to the shop that did the remainder of my install for 30 bucks a strut/shock. ended up costing me 90 since we were able to do one of them, and they fixed our mess no problem.:D so yeah DO NOT spend that much money on an install. they are trying to rip you off. you should go back when your car is lowered and give them the bird.
It must be my area or the east coast cause I've tried calling different shops again today and everyone either doesn't do it or wants to charge $300 to $400 for the install. For $120 I would take to some shop to do it. Shops here in ATL are rip off artists.
Oh yeah btw,
Called Nopi for some help. All they said was they didn't do it and that any shop could do it. Then I asked for any recommendations to a shop and they said Carisma auto center could do it. Called Carisma and they told me no. What the hell?!! Nopi wasn't very helpful at all.
sorry man, but you're soooooo wrong. I let the fucker fall out all the time. Then I just push it back in and turn the rotor and voila, it's back in. sounds like you to the long routeOriginally posted by DEXTERBASE
P.S. It's best once the strut is removed, not to let the weight of the rotor/caliper assembly hang on the axle. Use a string to hold it up. If you overlook this step, you could separate the CV joint on the axle.
This isn't a big deal, you'll just have to cut the CV boot band off, re-assemble the CV joint, grease it, and re-band the CV boot.
getting the tie rod out the first time will be a bitch. Just do like someone already stated. Unscrew the nut till it is flush with the bottome of the bolt. Then take a rubber mallet and hammer it out, by hitting that bolt. Don't be a wimp...and don't worry I've done this 5 times now. It worksOriginally posted by atl-si
Hey all,
I am trying to install some coilover but I am having problems with the tie rod linkage ball joint to the strut. It don't seem to want move or come out at all. I tried hammering as Hondaman said in his how to but it won't come off. Am I not hitting it hard enough or am I missing something? Anyways, I tried to call up some local auto shops and they want $300 to $400 for the install w/ alignment. I think that is a rip off and will not pay that much for it. Anyone knows of some shop in Atlanta that will do for cheap price if I can't get the ball joint to come off?
Actually I didn't take the long route because I know enough to not let this happen in the first place.Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
sorry man, but you're soooooo wrong. I let the fucker fall out all the time. Then I just push it back in and turn the rotor and voila, it's back in. sounds like you to the long route
So you let the cv joint separate 5 times, and you got lucky five times. Here's why;
When the CV joint separates, there are three bearings on the end of the shaft. Typically the CV joint grease is thick enough to hold these on. If you move the axle shaft wrong, one of these bearings can fall off into the CV boot.
After one of these bearings falls off the CV joint may go back together and seem fine, even though there is a bearing floating around in the boot. Drive on it and the bearing may find it's way back into the CV joint on the wrong end and really mess things up, especially at highway speeds.
I'm not knocking you in any way, let me say that. I just know that a LOT of people who read this forum are 16-17 years old and may not have much experience working with cars.
I think we should offer advice to keep these guys from having to deal with potential problems. I have read your postings and I'm sure you would agree with me on this. Take it easy Bro. ---Dex
I just talked to a couple suspension experts this afternoon and they recommend leaving the nut threaded onto the end of the bolt and then using a bearing puller to separate the two parts.
I haven't tried it but the logic seems sound.
hahaha, I just got your PM. I've been an as to you in previous posts? Sorry man. Didn't mean any offense. As for this CV joint separating, maybe I'm confusing something with what you are saying. When I unbolt the shock assembly from the rotor (those two big bolts), the rotor assemby comes down and when you have to get it back up, I just push in and turn. This is the newest thing I've seen and I was at a shop where mechanics work on cars for over 15 years. They have never seen anything like this. So maybe I'm wrong and I guess I was lucky for 5 times in a row :D If so, I have someone watching over me. And there is no weird sound as if something is loose in there.Originally posted by DEXTERBASE
Actually I didn't take the long route because I know enough to not let this happen in the first place.
So you let the cv joint separate 5 times, and you got lucky five times. Here's why;
When the CV joint separates, there are three bearings on the end of the shaft. Typically the CV joint grease is thick enough to hold these on. If you move the axle shaft wrong, one of these bearings can fall off into the CV boot.
After one of these bearings falls off the CV joint may go back together and seem fine, even though there is a bearing floating around in the boot. Drive on it and the bearing may find it's way back into the CV joint on the wrong end and really mess things up, especially at highway speeds.
I'm not knocking you in any way, let me say that. I just know that a LOT of people who read this forum are 16-17 years old and may not have much experience working with cars.
I think we should offer advice to keep these guys from having to deal with potential problems. I have read your postings and I'm sure you would agree with me on this. Take it easy Bro. ---Dex
But yes, it does make it a 100 times easier to just make sure it doesn't come out.
Sorry if you were offended. But don't let people get to, especially me. Trust me, I'm a cool guy, I just type this way :D
See sig :)
Ok. My mechanic helped me install my tein flex today and he did the most amazing thing to separate the tie rod ball joint from the strut. He took a short heavy metal hammer and banged on the long part of the strut directly in front of the ball joint a few times. the ball joint is then easily removed. he never touched the screw or anything.
That's what I did to my car. Out of the 6 or 7 installs I've done, mine was the only one that would work like that:D
Every other car needed a tie rod seperator.
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