Reply With Quotethat's cool man. Thanks for being the first to do this and take pics :D
I know alot of you are anxious to see the details of the install,
and the dyno gains.
I started to do the job yesterday, and had a little trip up.
(lower intake manifold bracket bolt shown in this pic)
I went to my honda dealer to get this pic and solve a question I had.
This install is quite detailed and I have numerous pics to show
each step. I will be adding to this thread when the job is complete.
My best guess and knowing what is required, tools and steps
involved would take about 2 hours.
For now you can just study the blowup, until I get all the
necessary process layout. (Will be available after this weekend)
Hondata has a general outline for the install, there are
some things that are not included here, and may cause you
problems Hondata Heatshield Gasket Install (RSX - we only have the
one lower intake maifold bracket)
My Ever Lovin SIR...;)
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 10-30-2002 at 02:58 PM.
that's cool man. Thanks for being the first to do this and take pics :D
It will reside here for now until DTH decides to add it. I haveOriginally posted by BlasTech
Hope to see this one in the PROJECTS section soon!
about 80% of it layed out. tks
Ill sticky this as soon as some info is up :) --- CANT wait to see .. --joe:)
on all the Honda intake manifolds, the support brackets/bolts are always the hardest ones to access. Once you get them off the rest of the process is much easier. Hey Glen if you get a chance could you e-mail me the intake manifold diagram, it would be easier to read on my old computer that way. thanks. Look forward to seeing the install completed.
Here are the steps I took to install the Heatshield gasket.
I tried to do this all in one reply and got bumped for having
too many images.
First the tools you will require....
12mm Wrench
3/8" Ratchet
Magnetic pic-up tool
10mm & 12mm sockets
Short & long 3/8" extension Bars
3/8" Universal
Flat head screw driver
Needle nose pliers
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 11-03-2002 at 04:34 AM.
Step 1:
Remove the Intake manifold cover. (Two 10mm bolts) And Intake
manifold cover brakets (Two 10mm bolts)
Step 2:
Remove the sensor and wire harness connectors from the
Throttle body. (4 total - 2 above the TB and 2 below)
Remove the TB and Intake manifold Hoses.
Step 3:
Remove the Throttle cable along its seating points and unclip the
left manifold hose.
Step 4:
Remove the Intake hose connection, be it stock, CAI or SRI. This
will give you clearance to the TB nuts and bolts (4 x 12mm)
I have a CAI and needed to remove the battery in order to get
clearance to move my intake out of the way.
Step 5:
Remove the TB. It can be pushed aside as there is no need to remove
the TB water hose connections (coolant bypass), there is enough clearance with them left intact.
Next remove the Fuel rail from the Intake manifold.
Two 12mm nuts on the top of the fuel rail and one 10mm bolt
holding the ground wire.
Unclip the green connector and have a rag handy to catch
the fuel as it leaks from the rail.
Slide it out parallel in order not to damage the O-ring seals on the
injectors. The fuel rail can rest aside with the TB.
Step 6:
From underneath the car you will locate the lower manifold bracket
bolt. Remove it. (12mm) Here is the best pic I have of it.
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 11-03-2002 at 06:21 AM.
Step 7:
Remove all of the manifold nuts and bolts (7 total)
The 2 top studs will need to be removed (using the
back to back nut technique). Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whole fascia out of the
engine bay for clearance.
The left upper most manifold bolt will require a wrench in order
to remove it due to lack of clearance, the others can be gotten
with the long and short extensions and universal.
Above shows the back to back nut technique used to remove the
studs.
Step 8:
Once you have all the manifold fasteners off, you can pull it back
to gain clearance to the stock black aluminum gasket.
Remove it and clean the surface of the gasket area thoroughly.
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 11-13-2002 at 09:33 PM.
Step 9:
Insert the new Hondata heatshield and locate it while replacing
the studs. Use the same technique as removal to replace them.
(back to back nuts)
Replace all the manifold fasteners, don't forget the lower bracket.
Step 10:
Replace the TB and cable, Fuel rail, intake, battery, wire harnesses, and hoses. Basically work your way backwards.
The 12mm Nuts/bolts should be tightened to 16lb-ft torque
and the 10mm bolts tightened to 8.7lb-ft torque
Start your car.
If everything is correctly replaced you should have no problems.
Replace the manifold cover.
Because the fuel rail was disconnected, you will have low fuel
in it, so expect to have the motor turn over at least 3 times before
it starts.
If you did remove your battery, then you will also need to have
your security code handy for the radio.
The total time was near 2 hours and was trouble free. I hope this
will help anyone else that wishes to do this install. I learned
alot about my engine, just from doing it.
Next up is the dyno run to provide a simple comparison of before and after.
Here is a cool pic of the intake runners in the manifold.
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 11-03-2002 at 05:03 AM.
On a side note I noticed a very crutial thing about my intake.
This would also apply to any others running the AEM CAI (or any other intake for that matter). And
OBVIOUSLY would have effected my dyno run.
Here is a pic of my rad hose pressed directly up against my intake.
Dam thing was stealing my thunder, and heating the air up just
before my TB and manifold.
Here is what I have done.
I have a tie wrap holding it up off of my intake. This is sufficient,
but I will probably put in a longer hose that does not make contact. Everyone running the AEM CAI should check this.
Tks
My Ever Lovin SIR...:p
Last edited by myeverlovinsir; 11-03-2002 at 06:30 AM.
''The 2 top studs will need to be removed as well using the
back to back nut technique. Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whold fasia out of the''
so how do you take them out i guess i dont really understand what your trying to say
Originally posted by 2k2civicSi
''The 2 top studs will need to be removed as well using the
back to back nut technique. Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whold fasia out of the''
so how do you take them out i guess i dont really understand what your trying to say
This is from hondata...
Basically what you are doing here, in order to remove the studs
from the head, is tightening one 12mm nut onto another (back to back)
on the protruded end of the stud. You can use the 2 you removed
from the manifold or the 2 nuts removed from the fuel rail, all
are 12mm nuts.
This gives you some leverage on the stud in order to remove
it. It is a handy trick used by many mechanics to get these studs
out. Hope the pics show enough.
wow, great work Glen, lots of good info for anyone wanting to do that mod. . excellent post.
Hey Glen, did you notice any black residue granule like material sitting at the bottom of the intake manifold ?. There is a tray like section at the bottom side of the manifold, when I took my throttle body off I noticed a bit of granules sitting down there, they kind of felt like carbon granules. Looks like the tray is meant to collect materials and oils that come from the breather tube system. Just wondering if you noticed any in yours ?, I cleaned mine out as best as I could. Kind of hard to describe unless you've seen it.
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