*Note: If you do not turn the motor over, there will still be fuel in the rail. You can pull a certain fuse and turn the car over to remove that excess fuel, but I don't have my pdf file handy. My way will only make a tiny mess.
- With rag in hand, undo the green tabs to disconnect the hose from the fuel rail. Try to catch the gas that drips.
- With a flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the 4 clips which connect the fuel rail to the injectors.
- Remove the 2 12mm nuts remaining on the fuel rail.
- Completely wrap the fuel rail in a rag and gently pull it back as not to damage the o-rings on the injectors.
- Screw the two 12mm nuts back onto the manifold which you just removed. This is for memory in reassembly.
*Note: We are now ready to unbolt the manifold. There are 3 bolts across the bottom blindside and 2 bolts/2 nuts across the top. There is also a bracket which must be loosened from underneath the car so you can pull back the manifold from the engine. I will use my "special socket" on taking out the 12mm manifold bolts. The swivel socket is a must have.
- Remove all mentioned screws and bolts. 7 total, 12 mm.
*Note: Difficult positioning makes removing two of the 3 bottom manifold bolts a complete pain in the ass. For the bottom center bolt, I used a long handle ratchet with a 6'' extension, a u-joint, and the 12mm socket. Get the socket connected to the bolt, and lay the extension directly against the manifold to try and get as straight a shot as possible. This will help from rounding off the bolt. For the bottom right, I use the same long handle ratchet and a 12 mm socket. I slipped it in behind the throttle cables and slowly (1-2 clicks per turn) I was able to loosent it enough to remove the bolt by hand with the socket. The bottom left was a straight shot using a ratchet with 6'' extension and 12mm socket.
*Note: Removal of the studs is a necessity since the ep has zero room to work with between the radiator and intake manifold. The trick to removing them is known as the back-to-back method. Take the two nuts which you removed from the studs and place them back to back on the threads as shown in the picture below.
- Take the 2 12mm open end wrenches and tighten them together.
*Note: Once tight, you can use the wrench to turn the back nut counterclockwise. You will see the stud unscrewing as though the nuts were part of it. For installation of studs, do the same thing, but twist the front nut the opposite direction.
- Jack up the front of the car and place it on jackstands.
*Note: Right in front of the oilpan and next to the motor mount bracket is a 12mm bolt going into another big black bracket. This bracket runs all the way up to the manifold.
- Remove the 12mm bolt so we can jiggle the manifold away from the engine.
- Remove the metal factory gasket and replace with the plastic hondata substitute using the studs to hold it in place.
*Note: make sure the coolant hole is on the right/driver side so it isn't put on backwards.
- Use the back to back method in screwing the studs back into the head of the motor.
- Tighten the bolts along the edges of the manifold. The helms manual says 16ft/lb, but good luck getting your tq wrench to work in those places.
- Go underneath the car and put the 12mm screw back into the intake manifold bracket. If you want, you can go ahead and lower the car from the jackstands now.
*The manifold is now complete. We will go on to the fuel system.
- Place the empty fuel rail back on top of the injectors.
- Use the two nuts to screw the fuel rail in place so you can put the injector clips back on.
- Push down on the rail to get a good seat with all the clips. They will snap right back into place.
- Hook the fuel line back up to the green tab connector.
- Plug the clips back into the tops of the injectors and screw the gound 10mm screw back into the manifold.
- Take the screw you left in the manifold beside the throttle body and use it to put the garnish back along the fuel rail onto the pegs it snaps into.
- Replace the gas cap on the car.
* The fuel system is complete. Now on to the throttle body.
- Replace gasket, if desired, or slide Throttle body back into place.
- Plug in the 4 sensors and don't forget the one with the rubber grommet on the bottom.
- Screw the 2 nuts/2 bolts back onto the corners of the Throttle body to connect it with the intake manifold. 16ft/lb
* The throttle body assembly is complete.
- Bolt the throttle cable bracket back onto the throttle body. 2- 10mm screws
- Reposition the cables so they run around the spring and tighten the nuts back to the desired preset lengths. The "cruise control cable is black with black", and "throttle cable gold with gold" in case you forget which goes where.
- Slide the 4 hoses back onto the intake manifold and respective areas. Curvy hose by the valve cover, pcv on the bottom left, brake booster hose, and evap from the canister to the throttle body. Refer to the pics above.
- Install intake or rubber coupling back onto throttle body.
- Install battery, if needed.
- You are done, and ready to start the car. Since the fuel rail is empty, you will have to let it turn over for a few seconds before it will start. Don't worry, this is normal.
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