Reply With Quotehaha im happy for you dude. the motor is still good. your pretty lucky. im surprised that it didnt hydro lockOriginally Posted by unreasonable
hell yeah get a pro to do it. Then again I've learned more than I thought I ever would when I started.
Took TB and intake manifold off, dried and soaked up and shop-vac/funnel/tube'd every ounce of fluid I could find, aired out the air assist valve (talonxracer saw your post on k20a org), etc etc... put it all back together and loaded the tsx base map and turned the key.
It runs! WHOOooo hoooo! Of course it's a chimney of white smoke, and not out of the water yet. Also if dc5 jet tells you to check ur throttle body DO IT :)
I'll post numbers and pictures and all of that in due time.
haha im happy for you dude. the motor is still good. your pretty lucky. im surprised that it didnt hydro lock
Thats sucks, but you did learn something new.
Now make sure to change out the oil. The oil in the engine is contaminated and it will ruin an engine quicker than running it with no oil.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Yes oil change this afternoon with new filter after work. How does it contaminate the oil exactly?
Hydrolock would mean there was no more room in the chamber at TDC and all space at that point were occupied by water. Water doesn't compress so it would just destroy everything of course. I wasn't getting enough coolant in there to cause hydrolock.
congratulations on getting this solved. (i've been following this.) Very glad for you that your engine still runs. I would recheck the plugs when you do your oil change.
Damn man, glad you figured it out and also glad it still runs lol. These Hondas are bulletproof!
hahaha yeah that
Im glad theres no ' the bent rod' pics to go along with this thread. You got lucky dog!
Hey guys super awesome update:
I did a compression test, this time with the engine warm. I got the same number from all cylinders (insert more cheers)!! Even better is the engine started when I was done.
White smoke is all nice and gone. I was getting concerned for a bit there as it burned off the excess water but nice clear exhaust now. It doesn't run like crap anymore, but I do have a bit of knock which I assume is the tune (only happens under load around 3000ish). I haven't pushed it more than that - that comes after it's tuned. Also those spark plugs are nice and dry and look good.
It's not 100% though - the battery light stays on, loopy idle if the a/c is off, if the a/c is on my abs light comes on sometimes (wtf?) and other odd electrical things like my auto down window doesn't work and my wipers are only one speed. I'm guessing grounds or I have wires hooked up wrong somewhere. Ideas?
And I lost my radio code
Last edited by unreasonable; 04-27-2008 at 07:27 PM.
hahaha radio code. if you havent written that down... you could be ass'd out lol
hope it works out man
check u'r fuses the batt. belts and altanator.
Make sure all your ground wires are grounded and that everything is plugged up correctly..
Hi,
Green plug on alternator was on but not snapped into place. Fixed!
Made a grounding kit from 8awg wire:
negative to IM to chassis
negative to valve cover
alternator top bolt to chassis
Grounds tested great - why would anyone buy a production grounding kit? You could even make one look blingy from car stereo parts.
Battery light is out, alternator is now charging battery.
Idle is still loopy. TB/IAC is coming off soon.
Technically my orig. issues have been resolved - thank you everyone for your help and ideas! You really kept me motivated when I thought all hope was lost. Of my many years in car forums this site has been one of the most helpful to date.
Last edited by unreasonable; 04-30-2008 at 08:03 PM. Reason: it all works save for the idle - close me!
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