Reply With Quotesealed !
That's a great answer.Originally Posted by SiMike
In theory we are literally using a bandpass now! The driver/enclosure has a natural roll-off and we attenuate the high frequencies with a crossover in a logarithmic fashion.
Difference is that most band pass enclosures that are small enough to fit in a compact car have a very narrow bandwidth thus causing their efficiency to concentrated to a VERY small area of the spectrum. As you increase the size of a bandpass and/or make it more complex with more vented chambers it's bandwidth gets wider and wider thus making it very much like an extremely efficient vented enclosure and a crossover.
Check out Decware's Housewrecker and some of the Pro audio bandpass enclosures, they are HUGE but have a broad bandwidth and when properly processed and powered can double as birth control
sealed !
Absolutely! One of the best sounding (loudest) boxes I ever had was a sealed box made from 3/4 MDF in which 3 drivers (1 15" Kicker Comp and 2 8" Kicker Comps) shared the same airspace. It suprised a lot of people at a local sound competition, I was running in the 50-100 watt class (punch 45HD for the subs and a 50 watt Pioneer amp for the rear speakers)
Iv worked in a Car audio shop for a little while a few years back and I came to realize after the many sub installs that a sealed CUSTOM enclosure is the best way to go, Now you wont get the high amount of bass if thats what your looking for, but the sound quality of the bass is alot more noticeable. Thats just my .02 from what I hear with my ears.
I voted Sealed.
Another vote for sealed however you gotta love a properly tuned ported box...
Custom sealed built to the sub hands down. Bandpass sounds like pure shit, its sloppy, the bass lags, and have not heard a single sub that sounds better in a bandpass over a sealed or ported enclosure. Only good if you have a shitty sub trying to make it sound louder (typical of those idiots who want everyone else to hear them more then sound quality) Stick with sealed or ported/slotted. Box build is very important, build to the sub specs whenever possible, so many subs out there are completely mis-matched to a good enclosure. Many buy a good sub and cheap out on the enclosure. Without sound quality its just noise.
Last edited by kaisertj; 05-05-2008 at 11:34 AM.
Wow, I haven't heard about them in a while. I built their Wicked One box to put in an S10 years ago. These guys really know what they are doing. Four crap Pioneer DVC 12's in ~300 lb. Decware box = 152db on ~400 rated watts. I also used to hide all of my alcohol in the vent, cops never checked.Check out Decware's Housewrecker
i would say ported = SQ and sealed = SPL
I think you have it backwards. typically sq vehicles are sealed and the spl vehicles are always ported. thats not saying that there are not great sq vehicles that are ported but you will be hard pressed to find a successful spl vehicle on the circuit that is not ported
I voted the way Chad did... mine is sealed and I like it alot, but Chad really knows his stuff and I know next to nothing about it all.
I have a small vented enclosure with a 10" alpasonik 400series sub dual 4ohm voice coil running at 1.2ohm. Hits crazy hard and responds great!
How exactly are you getting 1.2 ohms with a 4 ohm dual voicecoil speaker? The math I did says you could have either a 2 ohm or a 8 ohm load with that.
Sealed boxes hit the cleanest.
Its bridged down to 1 ohm stable, but with all electronics, its never EXACLTY whats rated.
Methinks you possibly tossed a meter across the final load to come up with that number? Tha't not IMPEDANCE which is dynamic, you found the direct coil resistance which is only a valid number when the driver is not driven (in motion) the impedance is affected by many other parameters of the driver such as inductance, capacitance, and EMF.
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