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  1. #1
    * jeenyusss's Avatar
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    DIY: Revhard Turbo Kit

    I was helped by so many members on here; my install was made possible by their help and knowledge. The instructions that come with the revhard kit are terrible, so this is my attempt at doing it.

    One major pain I found is that, the car being a Honda uses metric (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, etc.) and the revhard kit was made in the U.S. so it uses a lot of S.A.E.

    I first suggest prepping everything.
    A) take off valve cover
    B) take off the stock intake
    C) take off the stock exhaust manifold (header)
    D) take off the front wheels
    E) take the front bumper off

    1) Next get the oil pan "tapped". This includes taking one of the Elbow fittings, and getting it welded to the oil pan. After you have it welded (closest to the top that you can), go over it with JB weld for any possiblilty of pin holes. (for those that dont know, jb weld is sold at any local autozone store, advance auto, etc. and is basically a quick steel type mixture).

    Taking off oil pan: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48118





    The oil pan on the ep does not have a gasket; it has Honda-bond (ultra flange II) which is a liquid silicone. You have to scrap it off and reapply it when you put on the new oil pan.

    I will recommend to everyone to get a new return line from http://www.fast-turbo.com/ . It is a lot better then the tube and hose clamps that revhard gives you and I had problems with it leaking all the time. I have heard others have had no problems with the revhard setup, so its your choice.

    Whichever way you choose, I highly recommend installing the return fitting onto the turbo before installing it, because it’s a pain to do it from under the car, and I had to go out and buy a 14 flex socket just to get to it


    2) With the stock exhaust manifold off as well as the valve cover; you can go from the top and put the turbo manifold on. Mount the wastegate, dump tube, and you can even connect the lines to the valve cover to make it easier.











    I had to grind around where the bolts for the manifold went, because they did a bad job and the a couple bolts would not fit through the holes




    3) After that is put together, I put together the intercooler.



    We held it in place to drill with clamps and lined up all the piping, it took forever due to the lack of instructions of where the piping went, it was like playing legos for a couple hours. This is what it eventually looked like:



    When you go to put your bumper back on, you’ll need to shave off some of the backside of the bumper to make it fit, along with the mudguard on the drivers side, just cut it with some scissors.


    Some more pics:














    4) Next came the Blow off valve install. It bolts right onto the intercooler pipping right near the intake manifold. It has a gasket, and 2 bolts. You have to “T” it off the vaccum line shown here:





    And it runs to the top spot on the blow off valve.


    5) Next I would mount the return line. It’s the fitting that is an elbow, that has a spot for two bolts. It goes right on the bottom of the turbo. The way it sits brings the return hose right next to the manifold; I had it re-welded so that it came off at a slightly different angle. That connects down to the oil pan, which was previously welded. Again, I would highly suggest mounting the return piece on the turbo before installing it!

    6) Then comes the waste-gate. It bolts the bottom of the turbo manifold. The dump tube bolts right near it as well, (it uses an Allen key to tighten). There is a nipple on the turbo. You take the silicone vacuum hose, attach it to the nipple, then run it down, “T” it off, and have one go to the side of the waste-gate, and one to the top of the waste-gate.


    7) Oil fittings- It comes off the engine block on the passengers side, where the stock oil sending unit plugs in. Off the fittings should come the oil feed to the turbo, the stock oil sending unit, and an oil pressure gauge sending unit (if electric).



    I have been told to run the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge off its own braided steel line, so that there is not so many fittings and so it won’t break off under driving conditions/ hard acceleration. I do not have updated pics, but I used this:

    http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/O...al_Outlet.html

    It gives you 3 spots, one for the stock oil sensor, one for aftermarket oil pressure gauge, and one for the feed line. If you have no oil pressure gauge, it comes with a fitting to plug up one of the holes.

    The feed Line connects right to the top of the turbo, it is a compression fitting and you do not Teflon it, where as all the other fittings on the block DO require Teflon so it will not leak.



    Here is the best pic I could get of it updated:





    8) Next I installed the charge pipe off the turbo and connected the filter, pretty self explanatory.



    9) The downpipe was next. It came with exhaust wrap to wrap it in to keep it a little cooler. It has 5 bolts, and goes right on the side of the turbo. It will bolt directly up to the ep’s stock cat, although most people run a test pipe.


    10) HEATWRAP! The kit comes with a sheet of heat wrap, you should do all of the lines near the turbo and downpipe, it gets very hot and will melt them. I reccomened buying some Thermo-tech heatwrap, or full-race gold foil heatwrap if you have the money.



    I went a little crazy, but you can never be too safe in my opinion.

    11) Next hook up the kpro. Mine came with seimens 630cc injectors. I used the Revhard motoron inject. Basemap, and just had to change the injector size (it’s under parameters).




    Before you start the car up, and everytime you change the oil- PRIME THE TURBO:

    Take out the 15a ECU fuse out of the fuse box under the hood. Then go to start the car, and let it crank for 30 seconds. This lets oil run through the whole set up.




    Most of all-

    Take your time with the install, ask questions! I was helped by a lot of people on here. All this information is a composite of it! This was made to be a guideline, from what I have learned, to help make your install easier. If I have forgot any big steps let me know.

    Big thanks to:

    Aug (brian)
    Esmith13 (eric)
    TalonRacer (doug)
    Weltall (Jason)
    Jpax
    Thisisagame24 (mike)
    Mustclime (scott)
    2002stage1ep3 (ryan)
    Last edited by jeenyusss; 10-26-2008 at 09:05 PM.

  2. #2
    elitist jerk weltall's Avatar
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    stuck and closed

    just like last time
    Last edited by weltall; 06-17-2008 at 07:42 PM.
    i once had a 592whp ep on pump gas, i sold it and bought a Z
    (heed my advice i know what im doing)

  3. #3
    * jeenyusss's Avatar
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    you can close her jason, thanks. updated with pics and more info

  4. #4
    明らかにド素人 JDM SHIT! playap07's Avatar
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    i like those updated pics! ill make a revhard diy #2 when im done. ill get some of the finer things that you missed and i had trouble with!

  5. #5
    * jeenyusss's Avatar
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    cool beans, yeah i think i could go nutsw and add all the details but that would take 5 hours of typing and pics

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