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Thats right motha fucka
Well I'm not a certified mechanic so take my advice with a grain of salt kids. I'm not liable for your stupid mistakes.
Tools:
High lift jack
Jack stands
1/2 and 3/8 inch rachets
10,12,14,17,19mm sockets
6mm allen wrench
14mm open end wrench
17,10mm 12 point sockets
Screw driver
High temperature grease
Crow bar
2qts of tranny fluid
Air tools help a ton...
Patience
Personal best time of 4 hours today by myself
Ok make sure you have everything you need before starting this puppy. Your new clutch should come with a pilot bushing,throw out bearing,clutch alignment tool, pressure plate and clutch disc. First you drain the tranny fluid by taking out the bottom bolt(Drain bolt=blue and Fill bolt=Red 17mm) with just a 3/8 inch rachet.
When it is done draining put the drain bolt back in and snug it up. Then move on to the sway bar. Here is one of the endlinks and it will require a 6mm allen wrench and a 14mm wrench.Remove them both
Then remove the four 14mm bolts that hold the sway bar bushings in place. You can now remove the sway bar.
Then get to work on the subframe. 19mm bolts in blue and 17mm in red.There are four of each. 2x2 on each side.
Here is the rear mount. You need to remove the 4 17mm bolts to get the rear mount off. You can't see the last bolt in this picture but it is above these three.
The front mount is pictured here. Remove the 17mm bolts shown in red and there is one just on the other side of this mount that only needs to be loosened so the mount can swing out of the way to remove the 17mm bolt in blue. Any easy bolt to forget about is the 17mm bolt holding on the starter that has to come out to get the tranny off so remove it while you are over here working on the front mount. Now that pesky subframe should fall right on your face:mbanana:
Unbolt that slave cylinder pictured here. I think it is two 12mm but on this car they were 13mm?
There is alot going on in this picture! In green are two sensors that need to be disconnected(I have already disconnected them in this pic). In blue are the two shifter cables. There is a pin through each one that needs to be removed(already done) and then you can slide the shifter cables off. In red are two 17mm bolts that hold the tranny on...you can't see them but they are there. There is one of these bolts about 6 inches all the way around the tranny so remove them all.
Don't forget this 10mm oil pan bolt.
Remove the three 14mm bolts pictured here and pull the intermediate shaft out of the tranny...A screw driver works good on the intermediate shaft and a crowbar works great on the other axle. You can kinda push on the tire to give you more room to pull the axles out.
Alright now before removing the tranny mount pictured below you will need to put your jack underneath the oil pan with a large flat piece of wood between the two(so the pan isnt damaged by your jack). Raise the jack to barely support the oil pan. Remove the four 17m bolts in red and you can very slowly start to lower the jack untill you get the clearance to get the silver piece of the way and set it aside.At this point the tranny is hanging by a thread. The tranny can now be pulled out slightly and brought down(hopefully not crushing your feeble body beneath it) to the ground. It is very heavy(100lbs or so) and hard to manuever. A second set of hands comes in handy here.
Ok now you will be looking at this minus the alignment tool in the middle.
There are 6 12 point 10mm bolts holding the pressure plate/clutch on the flywheel. When you remove them make sure to do them only a couple turns at a time rotating around the pressure plate as you go. If you were to unscrew one after another all the way out then it will cause damage to the pressure plate!(Not that is matters cuz this is the old one but the new one will be put on the same way)You will have to stick a wrench through the flywheel and onto one of the ridges in the tranny to keep it from spinning while you take out the next 14 bolts.
Now take off the flywheel. There are 8 12 point 17mm bolts holding it on. Inspect the flywheel and if it is smooth with no heat spots then it is probably just fine to go back on without a resurfacing. However it is cheap and easy to get a flywheel resurfaced and it is cheap insurance so go ahead and get it resurfaced if you are questioning it.
Here is the rear main seal in green and in the center hole is the pilot bushing. Pull it out any method you see fit and put another one in its place. Use some high temp grease all over it. Any spots that need to be greased will be in pink. Use a screw driver and pop out the rear main seal if you are replacing it which I did on this car cuz it was leaking a bit. Clean up where the old seal was really good and then press in the new seal(It is super hard to screw this up).
Put the flywheel back on and torque those flywheel bolts in good. I didn't get out the tq wrench but on something like this I use the patented "Super Damn Tight" method. Make sure not to get any oil on the flywheel or clutch disc since it will ruin the new clutch disc. When you are putting the new clutch/pressure plate on use your alignment tool and center it in the pilot bushing. Line up the three pins in red below and then get to tightening the pressure plate bolts in the same fashion that we loosened them. Make sure to keep the alignment tool centered while you tighten the pressure plate.
Now on to the throw out bearing. Grease only the spots shown in the picture. DO NOT GREASE THE FRONT!!! Greasing the front could cause grease to be slung onto the clutch disc and ruin it.
Manuever the new throw out bearing onto the shift fork and grease the spindle as shown.
Now you can lift the tranny back into the car(DAMN hard to do by yourself but I always end up with noone to help me)
You install everything in the reverse order that you removed it. It will take some swearing and sweet loving to get the subframe back in to place but you will get it with some patience. It helps if you put in the front two subframe bolts first very loosely and then you can start reattaching the lower control arms and then lastly put the back two subframe bolts back in. I found that the easiest way to get 'er done. If you guys notice anything out of place or something I'm missing then let me know and I'll update...or if you want some specific pics I'll be doing another clutch Saturday so I can snag a few more.
Last edited by davisj3537; 12-22-2008 at 02:44 PM.
Thats right motha fucka
Hey man, what grease did you use, im at this part on an engine swap, and I cant seem to find any. Checked honda and they looked at me like i was stupid.
You can just get any high temp grease. I found a tube of it at oreilly's but anywhere should have it. Just ask for any high temp grease. I'd grab a pic of my tube of grease but I'm not at home.Originally Posted by 03Si757
I just snagged some Valvoline SynPower greas, temp protection of like -60F - 425F So I guess it should work. Plus its a multi purpose grease so itll help on a few other things.
Should work just fine buddy
GREAT DIY! and I need to get bonged myself.
Thanks Jpax. I think we all need to get bonged from time to time.
I could've used this when I installed my clutch and flywheel.
I am pretty sure there is some ephatchers that would help me do this when the time comes
I just realized I was missing the first half of the DIY...added and now its complete.
HELP! Im not sure if the Pressure plate is supposed to rest against the flywheel. There is a good amount of space between the pressure plate and flywheel when mounted.
NVM, I got it.
Well when you bolt down the clutch to it there is no space. That is what holds the clutch in place buddy
Hey davis, get a DIY for bleeding the clutch! Im having trouble doing it.
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