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Thread: DIY: K24a1 swap

  1. #1
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    DIY: K24a1 swap

    Well long awaited DIY guys.Sorry for the bullshit excuses...so here it goes.All of my advice is to be taken with a grain of salt since I am not a certified mechanic.Foreword...If you don't know your way around your engine bay fairly well then this is not something you should do on your own.
    TOOLS
    8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm sockets,wrenches and deep sockets
    Jack stands
    tq wrench
    Engine lift
    Screw driver
    I would really reccomend a full tool box for this one but these are just a few that came to mind.
    SPECIAL PARTS NEEDED
    1.CRV passenger side motor mount PART #11910-PPA-000
    2.Special header(type s dcrh or ssr)
    3.
    a.Kpro
    b.k24 ecu
    c.310cc injectors w/ a3 ecu
    4.I highly reccomend getting a shop manual in case you run into any problems
    GETTING YOUR ENGINE BAY READY
    Since you keep almost everything from the a3 it is not a very expensive swap.You will reuse all of basic stuff like starter,alternator,ps steering,water pump.I found it much easier to move stuff out of the way instead of completely removing it.For instance instead of taking the throttle body off the Intake Manifold i just set the whole thing on the windshield on a towel.I tried to remove as little as possible when swapping motors.For instance you don't have to remove the trannsmission before pulling the motor...I unbolted the battery tray and brake/clutch fluid reserviors and moved them slightly to squeeze the motors in and out.I pulled my motor out of the top so i removed the hood and I personally thought this was easier than taking it out of the bottom.Enough said on that so now on the good stuff...
    CRANK POSITION SENSOR
    You need to pull the crank position sensor off the a3 and put it on the k24.Here is a pic of the sensor.There are only two bolts holding it on.This is directly behind the crank pulley.Edit:This sensor swap is only neccessary if you are putting in the k24a2 from a tsx.

    You will reuse the Intake manifold and throttle body from the a3.You can throw away all the egr crap on the k24 manifold since you don't need it.You are gonna keep all the belt tensioner stuff from the a3 too so don't get rid of it.

    HEADER CLEARANCE
    The deck on the K24 is a little taller than the a3 so you will need to get a different header to fit.Here is a pic of the type s dcrh and how it clears the sway bar.You will need to get a new midpipe or have yours cut and fit to the type s header.It is a couple inches too long.

    I also removed the heat shield between the header and the bottom of the car...you can leave it but it might rattle on the header just a bit.

    Here is a pic of 1abSI's car...where he cut the sway bar and modified it to fit with his jrrh....interesting
    http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...waybar0001.jpg
    TURBOS
    If you are going turbo then be carefull of getting a large top mounted turbo since there is less room up there to work with.Here is a pic showing you the difference in height.Look for the gap between the front strut bar and valve cover(If someone can get me a pic of there gap between the neuspeed front strut and the valve cover on their a3 then I can show a comparison)

    CRV PASSENGER MOUNT
    This is the motor mount that bolts to the timing chain cover that you need to replace(this one is from the a3)

    Here is a pic of the one for the CRV.It is listed for 22 bucks on this website.It is item 1 in the picture

    http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...hidIrno=%7C001
    MOTOR MOUNTS
    When doing this swap I found that the motor mounts were the easiest if bolted up in this order Passenger/Trannsmission/Front/Back.I found that bolting in the back is easier if you stick an allen wrench in one of the bolt holes and that way you can manuver the mount to line up with the other 2 holes.This made it much easier.
    WIRE HARNESS
    You guys don't be scared of the wire harness...it only goes on one way so you can't mess it up.All the wiring is a certain length so it is very unlikely you will plug the wrong sensor in the wrong place.
    A2 OIL PUMP
    The z3 or a2 pumps work great. There has been some discussion recently referring to the idle oil pressure being better with the a3 pump...the choice is yours but I vote atleast getting one or the other. If you have a a2 pump then mate it with the a2 pan, baffle, chain and oil chain tensioner. If you get the z3 pump then mate it with the z3 pan of course. Personally I highly reccomend putting in the a2 or z3 oil pump, and pan while you have the motor out.Here is a great thread showing how to mate up the oil pump with the block.
    http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...t=tsx+oil+pump

    As I notice things that I have missed I will definately update this post.If there are any questions or other things you guys think should be added then hit me up.
    Last edited by davisj3537; 12-22-2008 at 02:47 PM.

  2. #2
    ephatch member
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    Nice.

  3. #3
    Registered User 03Si757's Avatar
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    Davis, I got pics of my swap up. Check them out in the "Swap" forum.

  4. #4
    JDM NATE miaep3's Avatar
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    couple questions
    1.why is the crank position sensor needed to be changed just to know wats the diffrence of them?
    2. the water pump off the k24a2 can be used or the a3 one needs to be used?
    3.crank pully can u use the a3 crank pully or do u have to put the rsx type s crank pully to stay with the same size belt.

  5. #5
    MaNtEQuiLLA/K-SQUADD ALL MotoR Ep3's Avatar
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    Good Shyt Dave...For Recovering Your DIY thread...

  6. #6
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miaep3 View Post
    couple questions
    1.why is the crank position sensor needed to be changed just to know wats the diffrence of them?
    2. the water pump off the k24a2 can be used or the a3 one needs to be used?
    3.crank pully can u use the a3 crank pully or do u have to put the rsx type s crank pully to stay with the same size belt.
    The tsx crank position sensor is shaped differently and the plug wont match.

    I believe the tsx water pump works just fine buy you have to use the ep3 thermostat and housing.

    I used the crank pulley on the k24. My belt still fit but I had a custom belt setup. I'm doing another k24 setup here in a few weeks and I'll get the belt size you need.

  7. #7
    JDM NATE miaep3's Avatar
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    thanks.
    let me know wat size belt when u get a chance.

  8. #8
    ephatch member Marc-111's Avatar
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    nice DIY! thanks!

  9. #9
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miaep3 View Post
    thanks.
    let me know wat size belt when u get a chance.
    If I forget to post it here by the end of may then bump this thread and remind me.

  10. #10
    ephatch member 02_epdriver's Avatar
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    Good write up man

  11. #11
    R.I.P car locoep3's Avatar
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    u just ansered my Q? man thanks now i will start looking for a moter

  12. #12
    JDM NATE miaep3's Avatar
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    wat about the collant port wat did u do to block it off.

  13. #13
    Registered User xjuxtapozx's Avatar
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    i want a k24 swap....

  14. #14
    SC is hot EPSU3's Avatar
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    so this doesn't seem too complicated. Basically unbolt and remove the A3, drop in k24, attach accessories, wiring harness, and start it up? well i'm sure there's more than that

  15. #15
    Murphy's bitch Twisted-X's Avatar
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    Question

    Couple of stupid Q's:

    1. Is the K24A2 oil pump the same as the K20A2?
    2. So the 310cc Injectors used with the K20A3 ECU keep the K24 from running too lean? Which motors can the 310cc injectors come from?

    Thanks

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