K24a1 swap DIY

[davisj3537]

Well long awaited DIY guys.Sorry for the bullshit excuses...so here it goes.All of my advice is to be taken with a grain of salt since I am not a certified mechanic.Foreword...If you don't know your way around your engine bay fairly well then this is not something you should do on your own.
TOOLS
8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm sockets,wrenches and deep sockets
Jack stands
tq wrench
Engine lift
Screw driver
I would really reccomend a full tool box for this one but these are just a few that came to mind.
SPECIAL PARTS NEEDED
1.CRV passenger side motor mount PART #11910-PPA-000
2.Special header(Strup,DCRH, JRRH...hits slightly, Hytech, SSR)(If you get a dcrh I reccomend a type s one since it has larger pipes)
3.
a.Kpro
b.310cc injectors w/ a3 ecu(no bolts on allowed or you will run lean)(remove front sway for the fitment of your stock header and cat)
4.I highly reccomend getting a shop manual in case you run into any problems
GETTING YOUR ENGINE BAY READY
Since you keep almost everything from the a3 it is not a very expensive swap.You will reuse all of basic stuff like starter,alternator,ps steering,water pump.I found it much easier to move stuff out of the way instead of completely removing it.For instance instead of taking the throttle body off the Intake Manifold i just set the whole thing on the windshield on a towel.I tried to remove as little as possible when swapping motors.For instance you don't have to remove the trannsmission before pulling the motor...I unbolted the battery tray and brake/clutch fluid reserviors and moved them slightly to squeeze the motors in and out.I pulled my motor out of the top so i removed the hood and I personally thought this was easier than taking it out of the bottom.Enough said on that so now on the good stuff...
CRANK POSITION SENSOR
You need to pull the crank position sensor off the a3 and put it on the k24.Here is a pic of the sensor.There are only two bolts holding it on.This is directly behind the crank pulley.Edit:This sensor swap is only neccessary if you are putting in the k24a2 from a tsx.

You will reuse the Intake manifold and throttle body from the a3.You can throw away all the egr crap on the k24 manifold since you don't need it.You are gonna keep all the belt tensioner stuff from the a3 too so don't get rid of it.

HEADER CLEARANCE
The deck on the K24 is a little taller than the a3 so you will need to get a different header to fit.Here is a pic of the type s dcrh and how it clears the sway bar.You will need to get a new midpipe or have yours cut and fit to the type s header.It is a couple inches too long. Use the exhaust gasket from the k24.

I also removed the heat shield between the header and the bottom of the car...you can leave it but it might rattle on the header just a bit.

Here is a pic of 1abSI's car...where he cut the sway bar and modified it to fit with his jrrh....interesting
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...waybar0001.jpg
TURBOS
If you are going turbo then be carefull of getting a large top mounted turbo since there is less room up there to work with.Here is a pic showing you the difference in height.Look for the gap between the front strut bar and valve cover(If someone can get me a pic of there gap between the neuspeed front strut and the valve cover on their a3 then I can show a comparison)

CRV PASSENGER MOUNT
This is the motor mount that bolts to the timing chain cover that you need to replace(this one is from the a3)

Here is a pic of the one for the CRV.It is listed for 22 bucks on this website.It is item 1 in the picture

http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...temcomp=Engine
MOTOR MOUNTS
When doing this swap I found that the motor mounts were the easiest if bolted up in this order Passenger/Trannsmission/Front/Back.I found that bolting in the back is easier if you stick an allen wrench in one of the bolt holes and that way you can manuver the mount to line up with the other 2 holes.This made it much easier.
WIRE HARNESS
You guys don't be scared of the wire harness...it only goes on one way so you can't mess it up.All the wiring is a certain length so it is very unlikely you will plug the wrong sensor in the wrong place. The only sensors you can get mixed up is the map sensor and the tps. The map sensor is connected to another sensor as well and the tps is all by itself.
OIL PUMPS
The z3 or a2 pumps work great. There has been some discussion recently referring to the idle oil pressure being better with the a3 pump...the choice is yours but I vote atleast getting one or the other. If you have a a2 pump then mate it with the a2 pan, baffle, chain and oil chain tensioner. If you get the z3 pump then mate it with the z3 pan of course. Personally I highly reccomend putting in the a2 or z3 oil pump, and pan while you have the motor out.Here is a great thread showing how to mate up the oil pump with the block.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread...t=tsx+oil+pump

As I notice things that I have missed I will definately update this post.If there are any questions or other things you guys think should be added then hit me up.

[davisj3537]

This one is much cleanerI'm glad I posted most of my DIY's on crsx.com

[crhatch02]

This one is much cleanerI'm glad I posted most of my DIY's on crsx.com

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...d=1#post510282

too slow biotch

[davisj3537]

I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

[KeNnYtAkEr]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...d=1#post510282

too slow biotch

Dude he was the Original DIY poster. I took down the one I copied. Since he has the pics too.

I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

Hahah now that you have yours up I'll closed/delte the other one. Post more DIY Davis3537 I know you have more.

[davisj3537]

Dude he was the Original DIY poster. I took down the one I copied. Since he has the pics too.




Hahah now that you have yours up I'll closed/delte the other one. Post more DIY Davis3537 I know you have more.

Thanks brotha I just added a few DIY's to the DIY section

[crhatch02]

I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

well aren't you hot shit

[davisj3537]

well aren't you hot shit

That is what your mother said when I was leaving this morning

[crhatch02]

That is what your mother said when I was leaving this morning

OOOOOOOH BURN

[unreasonable]

Did you use your ep3 coil packs?
Which base map did you start with?
Is that crazy extra ground on your IM necessary?

[Tnhatch03]

Davis - i was looking on the other sites for the information you posted up about the different Belts. still have them by chance?

[Tnhatch03]

KeNnYtAkEr - i am going to close your thread and update the sticky. that way we do not have 2 threads with the same information.

n/m... you did it. thanks!

[davisj3537]

Davis - i was looking on the other sites for the information you posted up about the different Belts. still have them by chance?

You talking about deleting the a/c right? I don't have it anymore...sorry. We meed a guinea pig to find them again.

[davisj3537]

Did you use your ep3 coil packs?
Which base map did you start with?
Is that crazy extra ground on your IM necessary?

Any k coil pack is fine. I started with a base map for a k20a3 and added 15%fuel to it. That extra ground is just a grounding kit...it grounds several spots on the engine.

[03Si757]

Question on the Crank Position Sensor. I see it says "Only necessary for the K24a2 swap" But I went ahead and pulled it from the k20a3 and put it on my K24a1. Will this effect anything and should I put the K24a1 one back on?