K24a1 swap DIY

[davisj3537]

But see, mine is not hitting the heat shield, and the shield is still on there. its hitting a support on the bottom of the car a little after that. The support was bent were the exhaust lays, but my b-pipe is laying right up against it.

By bpipe Im assuming your talking about the midpipe right? Any exhaust shop should have no problems angling some new exhaust pipe to where it wont hit or rest on the bottom of the car.

Is there any clearance issues with the rbc I/M and the k24a1?

It is a tight fit but there is no trimming required.

[03Si757]

I got it, I just adjusted the hight of the motor in the engine mounts, raising the front of the motor helped ALOT. Now just gotta figure out whats up with this clutch.

[davisj3537]

I got it, I just adjusted the hight of the motor in the engine mounts, raising the front of the motor helped ALOT. Now just gotta figure out whats up with this clutch.

Cool man. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

[MR.Pizza]

I had a question about what I need to do too get the axles out of the half shaft? I looked through your clutch install thread but I wasn't sure about what I needed to do to get the axles out of the transmission.

[03Si757]

I had a question about what I need to do too get the axles out of the half shaft? I looked through your clutch install thread but I wasn't sure about what I needed to do to get the axles out of the transmission.

Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

[MR.Pizza]

Cool thanks, that makes sense. So far everything is been alot easier than expected.

[davisj3537]

Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

Hookin' up the info WOOT WOOT!

[MR.Pizza]

I had to remove the core support today to squeeze the RBC in however its binding against it if I try to put the core support back in. Also it seems like it sits way to high for the hood to close. I have enjo front and rear motor mounts ( really stiff ), is their a way to move the engine position to get this to fit?

Also I had to swap the knock sensor with the a3 sensor due to the plug being different. I also totally mangled my radiator overflow tank when dropping the engine. Funny how so many people tell you they want to help out and never show up when it counts.

Thanks guys,

[MR.Pizza]

I think I'm going to mess with the mounts and subframe for about 1 hour tomorrow and if I can't get the clearance for the RBC I'll leave it for another time. I really don't want too cut he core support or damage my hood. Still I hate giving up.

[Lost03si]

Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

Did you remove the strut bolts? The 2 17mm Bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle for extra slack? I was thinking that would give it lots of clearance to remove the axles from the trans. I was thinking of trying that method when I do my swap...

[davisj3537]

Did you remove the strut bolts? The 2 17mm Bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle for extra slack? I was thinking that would give it lots of clearance to remove the axles from the trans. I was thinking of trying that method when I do my swap...

Not needed...just remove the lower control arms(19mm bolts). It gives PLENTY of slack.

[davisj3537]

I had to remove the core support today to squeeze the RBC in however its binding against it if I try to put the core support back in. Also it seems like it sits way to high for the hood to close. I have enjo front and rear motor mounts ( really stiff ), is their a way to move the engine position to get this to fit?

Also I had to swap the knock sensor with the a3 sensor due to the plug being different. I also totally mangled my radiator overflow tank when dropping the engine. Funny how so many people tell you they want to help out and never show up when it counts.

Thanks guys,

That sucks dude. Mine BARELY fit but it did fit. Did you get a k24a1? I had no problems with the knock sensor...and the hood does need to be trimmed. You'll have to remove some of the fire retardant from the underside and possibly even cut into the bottom layer of the hood.

[MR.Pizza]

That sucks dude. Mine BARELY fit but it did fit. Did you get a k24a1? I had no problems with the knock sensor...and the hood does need to be trimmed. You'll have to remove some of the fire retardant from the underside and possibly even cut into the bottom layer of the hood.

Yeah, it's for sure a k24a1. Papy special, I'll trim the hood and hammer mod the core support. I was also thinking I could put some washers in the side engine mounts to lower the engine a bit, any reason why this might be not recommended?

[davisj3537]

Yeah, it's for sure a k24a1. Papy special, I'll trim the hood and hammer mod the core support. I was also thinking I could put some washers in the side engine mounts to lower the engine a bit, any reason why this might be not recommended?

I can't imagine why the knock sensor didn't work Well for starters if you put spacers in then it will not lower the engine but maybe a cunt hair's worth cuz the lower two mounts don't really have any play. Plus if you lower the engine your rbc wont clear the radiator support...it will only get closer.

[MR.Pizza]

I can't imagine why the knock sensor didn't work Well for starters if you put spacers in then it will not lower the engine but maybe a cunt hair's worth cuz the lower two mounts don't really have any play. Plus if you lower the engine your rbc wont clear the radiator support...it will only get closer.

Yeah I was pretty alarmed when the clip didn't match, but I just swapped my ep knock sensor so no biggie. Papy said it was an 04'. Anyways your probably right about the mounts. If I could move the engine back 3/4 and inch I think it would fit perfect. Do you think adjusting the subframe would make a difference? I''l post some pic's tonight. Thanks again.