Everything you need to swap an a2 into an EP

[WhiteOnRice]

You thought this was going to be a write up huh? Well it's not! But it may be someday...

I'm going to make this into a list of things you need to swap a k20a2 into an EP3. The list is for people like me: who need every detail before jumping into an engine swap.

I'm doing the swap in 2 weekends, maybe I'll take some pictures and make a formal write up. I'm pulling it up and out (don't want to mess with the subframe).

What I've gathered that isn't obvious or doesn't bolt in:
-Replace RSX-S power steering pump with EP3 idler pulley
-Serpentine belt: 64" 7-ribbed or EP3 belt with washers to extend alternator pulley outwards.
-RSX-S engine harness, EP3 can be used with modification
-EP shifter may need to be cut to reach reverse ( http://images.sportcompactcarweb.com...rid02_zoom.jpg )
-RSX-S ecu (use EP3 until you get your key reprogrammed to ECU by Acura/Honda, keep RPM's low until while using EP3 ECU)
-EP3 axles

Let me know if I should add anything.

[nilly1010]

you need to keep the ep3 axles i believe

[davisj3537]

You DO NOT run that on a ep3 ecu under any circumstances. You don't need rsx axles...they are the same as ours. Ep shifter only needs to be cut if you have an 04-05 model and if you have a bcss then there is not cuttin involved. I have never heard anything about washers to extend the alternator...

[ClouD]

[QUOTE=davisj3537;523418]You don't need rsx axles...they are the same as ours.[QUOTE]

Is the rsx axles the same for the types s and base model? It should be since our motor is there base one.

[davisj3537]

Is the rsx axles the same for the types s and base model? It should be since our motor is there base one.

Yes they are the same sir

[clizoman]

you got it right just swap the pump, tensioner, idler and ac compress over.

[r_jones06]

you need to keep the ep3 axles i believe

that is my understanding too from my post from earlier this week... a2 splines are bigger http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43421

[blackbelt]

I have an A2 swap. This would have come in handy.

[davisj3537]

The rsx axles wont match up with your hubs is what it is. Your axles have the same spline pattern on the tranny side of the axle.

[WhiteOnRice]

Yes, you use your EP axles. I don't know why I said RSX-S axles. The splines are larger on the RSX-S (axle nut is 36mm on DC5, 32mm on EP3).

You DO NOT run that on a ep3 ecu under any circumstances.

Why do you say this? I can't start the swapped car with my EP key and Acura says I MUST drive the car to the dealership for them to reprogram the key.

Can anyone confirm what belt I should use? Will EP3 belt work fine with the EP idler pulley and all other pulleys from the rsx-s?

[dcmpbl]

The general consensus is that a 64 inch belt is the one. Personally, I had to use the EP belt, but feel it is a hair loose(still within the tensioner marks). Using the washers is a good idea that I wish I had thought of(it simplies makes the run of the belt a little longer if this is your personal situation...like me) 64 ~should~ be the one though. And you can "run" the motor with the A3 ecu...to make sure everything is plugged in/installed properly and to get your car to Acura (I did with no consequence). It probably isn't good to see how the motor revs or race down the street, but, gently driven, you can get yourself to the dealer. I actually drove to a Honda first, then on the highway (60ish) to the Acura that helped me out.

rsx-s axles have bigger outer splines, but the inners are the same as the EP3, allowing you to use the EP's.

This is also the time to drop the $30 on the Energy Susp. engine mount inserts. Most likely the originals will be worn if not torn and you don't want to get caught with your motor out while waiting for "shipping-time".

Be sure to have a flare nut wrench for the clutch line, so as not to ruin that. You will be draining the system, so another choice opportunity to upgrade to the stainless steel-braided line that are offered (Corsport.com for example).

Ball joint removal tool is needed--a fork -type will more than likely ruin the boot so get the claw/screw type. Be sure it fits too---the autozone "special" that I got wouldn't fit over my control arm, so I had to grind the insides of the casting a bit to make it work.

Do you have an aftermarket exhaust that you want to still use? You can get away with no modification if you use your EP exhaust manifold/cat downpipe, but the type-s' is so much bigger that I recommend using it. Which brings us to the note of needing to cut/reweld the midpipe for proper fitment.

The RSX-s' charge harness connects to the underhood fuse box a little bit differently. No worry, just bend the connectors to allow a proper fit.

Also a good time to get your fancy red radiator hoses (Samco,OBX,ect.) as the cooling system will be drained. Might as well make a note of having plenty containers for all the fluids you will be draining.

Your going to want oil(6quarts), DOT 3 brake fluid(for clutch system rebleed), and new trans oil (I used the Pennzoil Syncromesh), coolant (again Pennzoil which eeps are going to say stay away from--no issues here).

Installing the intake maifold gasket(aftermarket ones that do not tranfer heat{Hondata,Corsport,ebay,ect}) is sooo much easier with your motor sitting on a pallet vs while it is in your car.

If you take the motor out from the top, you may have to discharge yourr ac system and run the risk of f'ing up other things on the way up and on the way down--notably the hard brake lines. Its up to you, but even the service manual walks you through the process by way of dropping the subframe and then dropping the motor. You will have an engine lift regardless so why not do it the way Honda suggests





Two cans of PB Blaster will help and some shop towels. Long, flat tipped (skinny flat) screwdrive for the electrical connections...especially the catalytic convvertor ones. Obvious sockets, wrenches, breaker bar, channel locks (make quick work of the factory hose claps--which I suggest you replace with the scerw-type hose clamps)

The stock grounding connection is different on the A2 (If I remember correctly) which, if I am right, will need a longer wire (I had some cheap ebay kit that worked just fine).

[ALL MotoR Ep3]

Just a a2 motor,kpro ecu and it should drop right in and bolt right up....

[WhiteOnRice]

Thanks again dcmpbl. You're always a huge help.

This is also the time to drop the $30 on the Energy Susp. engine mount inserts. Most likely the originals will be worn if not torn and you don't want to get caught with your motor out while waiting for "shipping-time".

I've got Innovative mounts. :) The RSX-S mounts came with ESSM too. lol

Just a a2 motor,kpro ecu and it should drop right in and bolt right up....

I don't have kpro

[sLiCk]

Lifting the front of the car with a cherry picker doesn't look too safe :)

[SyckSiR]

Thanks again dcmpbl. You're always a huge help.


I've got Innovative mounts. :) The RSX-S mounts came with ESSM too. lol


I don't have kpro

u should tho....i maintain that if u plan to swap/mod your car this should be your first mod.....as it opens up everythng else you can do.

Also on the removal of the motor, i pulled it out thro the top and didnt have to recharge my ac and it was quick. from start to finish (hard start, nothing done - engine on hoist) took me 4 hours.

I agree with the above poster. lifting your car like that is ridiculous. you should never keep your car up on something that has wheels. either use a lift and take it out thro the bottom or jack stands and thro the top.....thats an accident waiting to happen.