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  1. #16
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SyckSiR View Post
    u should tho....i maintain that if u plan to swap/mod your car this should be your first mod.....as it opens up everythng else you can do.
    Meh, the rsx-s put me back enough. I don't need to spend $1500 to tune an a2 with i/h/e.

    Do I use the rsx-s thermo or the ep? I thought I read somewhere you should use the ep.

  2. #17
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    thanks for the info, definitely helps

  3. #18
    Registered User dcmpbl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sLiCk View Post
    Lifting the front of the car with a cherry picker doesn't look too safe :)
    I felt it was perfectly safe. The strap that I used is rated for more than the entire car weighs with motor. And you are lifting the car without the motor in it. You drop the engine to a dolly on the ground with the hoist. Then grap rebar with hoist, lift car, get motor out of there, lower car. You really only have the car up in the air for a few minutes depending on how many pics you take . I actually completed this part totally by myself. Use hoist to switch motors on dolly. Re-lift car, push new motor into place, and lower car back down.(This part required a friend working the lift, and another friend and I watching clearance into the bay) Once car is back down, use lift to bring motor up...again easier with friends to help line up the mounts.

    To say the least, not dangerous if you use a good strap and engine lift.

  4. #19
    Registered User dcmpbl's Avatar
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    No K-pro here either. The motor/trans was enough. I already had the AEM v2 and a Magnaflow. My motor came with a Comptech shorty--to my surprise-- and this car is loud and peppy. I agree that K-pro would be nice, but it isn't needed right away. 1000 plus tune 300-500 is alot of dough.

  5. #20
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    DC, did you use the a2 thermo? Does your coolent temp gauge rest at the same position it did before swap? Any weird fluctuations?

  6. #21
    MaNtEQuiLLA/K-SQUADD ALL MotoR Ep3's Avatar
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    Well I recommend getting Kpro if you wanna spend another 400 to get your key and immbolizer reprogrammed...I see it like this why spend maybe 200 or more on a stock a2 computer + extra $400 to reprogram your key and immobilizer...when you can spend 800 and get kpro and keep your key and immobilzer and plus be a step closer in case you wanna tune your motor w/ bolt ons......

  7. #22
    Time Attack Beast Guardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALL MotoR Ep3 View Post
    Well I recommend getting Kpro if you wanna spend another 400 to get your key and immbolizer reprogrammed...I see it like this why spend maybe 200 or more on a stock a2 computer + extra $400 to reprogram your key and immobilizer...when you can spend 800 and get kpro and keep your key and immobilzer and plus be a step closer in case you wanna tune your motor w/ bolt ons......
    it cost less then a 100 buck. if you paid that much you got ripped off hard

  8. #23
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALL MotoR Ep3 View Post
    Well I recommend getting Kpro if you wanna spend another 400 to get your key and immbolizer reprogrammed...I see it like this why spend maybe 200 or more on a stock a2 computer + extra $400 to reprogram your key and immobilizer...when you can spend 800 and get kpro and keep your key and immobilzer and plus be a step closer in case you wanna tune your motor w/ bolt ons......
    It's actually $45 to get it reprogrammed. I also had the rsx-s ecu already.

    I'll get kpro when I need it; stock a2 does not need it. Stop arguing for a $45 vs $1500 cost.

    Kpro or not, the ecu is getting reprogrammed so I can keep the immobilizer.

  9. #24
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcmpbl View Post
    Ball joint removal tool is needed--a fork -type will more than likely ruin the belt so get the claw/screw type. Be sure it fits too---the autozone "special" that I got wouldn't fit over my control arm, so I had to grind the insides of the casting a bit to make it work.
    I reread that and am confused. What do you need the ball joint removal tool for? (I have 2 of the fork-types in my shed.)

    If you're talking to remove the axle, it's so much easier to leave the ball joint and remove the top 2 bolts/nuts from the spindle.

  10. #25
    Registered User dcmpbl's Avatar
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    Sorry for the confusion... I changed my post to read "boot" not "belt". If you are dropping the motor through the bottom, you're going to want to release the ball joint connecting the knuckle to the lower control arm. I do not know what two screws that you are refering to in order to avoid the ball joints.

  11. #26
    Registered User dcmpbl's Avatar
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    Acura charged me for 1 hour's worth of work (only took 20 mins) @ like $80. Not bad and definately not comparable -price wise- to Kpro. $800 is a low price for Kpro (you will pay more), plus tuning.....

  12. #27
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    I thought you removed the lower ball joint to allow the knuckle to move move so you could remove the axle, that's why I was talking about the bolts on the spindle.

    Anyways, did you need to swap your thermo?
    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteOnRice View Post
    DC, did you use the a2 thermo? Does your coolent temp gauge rest at the same position it did before swap? Any weird fluctuations?

  13. #28
    R.I.P. k20a2 shadowmd's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=davisj3537;523418]. Ep shifter only needs to be cut if you have an 04-05 model and if you have a bcss then there is not cuttin involvedQUOTE]

    not true lol. i have an 05 ep and when i first got my a2 swap i ran with the stock shifter assembly for about a year then switched to the buddy club. but i never had to mod my stock shifter assembly.

  14. #29
    Registered User dcmpbl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteOnRice View Post
    I thought you removed the lower ball joint to allow the knuckle to move move so you could remove the axle, that's why I was talking about the bolts on the spindle.

    Anyways, did you need to swap your thermo?

    Thermo? If you mean the thermostat...I used the one that came with the A2

  15. #30
    Et tu? WhiteOnRice's Avatar
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    Well I finished the swap last weekend. It started up first try. Had a fluctuating idle with IACV code for a couple days. Idle is perfect now but I still have the code.

    I have a 2002 Si and I DID have to shave the shifter to get into reverse. I pulled it up and out and retained A/C.

    If anyone has any questions on the swap let me know. Pics soon.

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