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  1. #151
    OEM k24/20 224whp 02nhbpep3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davisj3537 View Post
    The head does not have the coolant port. The rbc is designed for a head with a coolant port. That portion of the rbc has to be cut off. Reread what you qouted me on. The coolant port mod is when you tap into the head and reroute the coolant back into the system so it doens't overheat. Used on alot of the better heads.
    I see what your saying now, thanks. Is a dremel the weapon of choice? And I'm guessing it's just a small piece that has to be cut off of the corner of the rbc? Anybody happen to have pics of the cut rbc?

  2. #152
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02nhbpep3 View Post
    I see what your saying now, thanks. Is a dremel the weapon of choice? And I'm guessing it's just a small piece that has to be cut off of the corner of the rbc? Anybody happen to have pics of the cut rbc?
    A saw is gonna be your first weapon of choice. Then move to a right angle grinder and finish with a dremel. It is a rather large cut you have to make. I didn't enjoy the 30 minutes I spent cutting it with aluminum shavings all over my dumbass. What you can do is take off your intake manifold or use a IMG and hold it in place on the rbc. Use a sharpee on the edge of it and cut away.

  3. #153
    Jeri Lee is hot!! supercivician's Avatar
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    anyone has clearance problem with strut bar with k24??

  4. #154
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercivician View Post
    anyone has clearance problem with strut bar with k24??
    You talking about a strut tower bar? If so then no, it doesn't even come remotely close.

  5. #155
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    ^YEAH THAT BIATCHES

  6. #156
    OEM k24/20 224whp 02nhbpep3's Avatar
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    Gotcha, thanks for the help davisj

  7. #157
    Registered User 02blacksi's Avatar
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    well now that I finally have all my gaskets for the k24a1 head ready to go... I just found out today that the head I had ordered was tested and is cracked! So Im back at square 1. Looking for a k24a1 head.

  8. #158
    JDM blah blah blah.. pynikal's Avatar
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    whats the better motor the a1 or the a4. i know that the a4 is one point higher comp ratio. but other than thatare there any other differences??

  9. #159
    OEM k24/20 224whp 02nhbpep3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pynikal View Post
    whats the better motor the a1 or the a4. i know that the a4 is one point higher comp ratio. but other than thatare there any other differences??
    The a1 imo, if you ever decide to go with another head you will have to change the pistons/rods on the a4, and the a1 head outflows the a4 also.

  10. #160
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    ^yeah that and the a1 rods are stronger than the a4.
    Last edited by davisj3537; 06-09-2008 at 07:38 AM.

  11. #161
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davisj3537 View Post
    ^yeah that and the a1 block is stronger than the a4.
    Hows that? I thought that the castings were virtually identical?

  12. #162
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucid Moments View Post
    Hows that? I thought that the castings were virtually identical?
    The rods are thicker are they not?editing in progress

  13. #163
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davisj3537 View Post
    The rods are thicker are they not?editing in progress
    They quite possibly are, but what does that have to do with the block?

  14. #164
    360+barpsin=death! davisj3537's Avatar
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    Well normally it is a rod getting thrown that is the demise of most blocks...right?

  15. #165
    Mean Old Bastard Lucid Moments's Avatar
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    That is more or less true. But the rod is still not part of the block. If I shoot a block with a shotgun (slug) that will cause the block to fail too. Does that mean the shotgun is part of the block?

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