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  1. #271
    She Will Be missed LOVIN MY EP3's Avatar
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    On the K24a2 IM theres a hole before the tb and every time I put my finger on it the motor dies... I'm pretty sure there's a sensor or something that goes on If anyone can let me know what goes there that would be great

  2. #272
    Supercharged K24A2 vbpracer's Avatar
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    Where is your map sensor?

  3. #273
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    yea thats where the map sensor goes

  4. #274
    She Will Be missed LOVIN MY EP3's Avatar
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    My Map sensor is on the ep3 tb but I went to the junk yard because my tps went out and I came up on a skunk2 tb with all the sensors but it only had one hole on the top... right now the map sensor is on there but I'm guess if I put my map sensor on the IM and I'm guess the evap purge valve canister goes on top of the tb

  5. #275
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    im using the ep3 tb also and i moved the map sensor to the intake mani itself....the karcepts adapter comes with a little rubber plug you put in the spot on the tb where your map sensor is now, here is a pic of mine, yellow circle is the rubber plug, purple is the new location for the map sensor on the intake manifold



  6. #276
    She Will Be missed LOVIN MY EP3's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info RHCP0801

  7. #277
    GROUND SPECIALIST ep-unit's Avatar
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    I just got the crv mount bracket do i need the bolts too or will i be able to reuse my a3 bolts on the k24 swap?

  8. #278
    One cool duck, with a hat Heitzke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ep-unit View Post
    I just got the crv mount bracket do i need the bolts too or will i be able to reuse my a3 bolts on the k24 swap?
    same bolts are fine

  9. #279
    GROUND SPECIALIST ep-unit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heitzke View Post
    same bolts are fine
    so the a3 bolts will do....sweet

  10. #280
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    yea i used the a3 bolts on the crv bracket, just remember which ones go where because one is longer than the others

  11. #281
    ephatch member SandBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3 View Post
    In my findings, the RBB had better midrange 2500-5500rpm than a PRB, otherwise both were similar up to 6800rpm.

    The PRC was much better above 5500rpm and took away some of bottom end between 2500-4300rpm, compared to the RBB.

    The PRC seemed to meet halfway between the three manis. Decent top end, decent midrange power. The great thing is (for me anyways), the PRC is a bolt in affair. No mods, no custom parts.

    I havent had a chance to run the PRC or RBB bored with a matched TB yet. Have you bore matched your RBB and TB? I wonder if that would be the better of them all.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    If i were to build a race motor (small/medium sized circuit), i would probably choose the PRC over an RBC. The longer the straights are, and the larger the average corners radius is... the more likely i would use an RBC. Since being smooth in and out of corners is far more important than max whp#'s, having the ability to get from corner exit to corner entry is crucial (assuming no wheelspin). There are a lot of factors that come into play (trasmission ratios and FDR come to mind as primary), but peak whp isnt on the top of the list. Its about trying to put down all of your HP from corner to corner as fast and consistent as you can.

    Drag racing is different. Its about putting as much power to the ground as you can, in as few of a gears as you can. A higher revving powerhouse with a properly set up transmission becomes priority. Chassis tuning is just as important as circuit racing.

    Daily driving is a little of both. It requires the best of all the above, and adds a level of durability. Daily driven cars are less likely to be maintained properly like a race car of either type. Its the nature of the competitive spirit to stay on top of your game, and make sure you put the best your car can be on the track.

    Thats why we are the hardest guys to please when it comes to building Hondas. We want a 12 second car that out handles a Porsche on the way to the grocery store with 6000 miles on the oil change, and a baby seat in the back. lol
    you and I have alot of K24 experience. whatever Ba82ep3 says is right on. pullN on M5's and shit

  12. #282
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Snag a TSX or CRV evap solonoid and it is mounted off the TB.......on several cars with different manis that I have tuned, it seems that the best map signal seems to occur at the TB.

    One of the guys up here has seen excellent results with a K24A1(w/TSX slugs), BC stage 3 cams breathing thru a PRC mani with plenum spacer that didnt see those low end losses, an awesome DD hooked up to the base 5 spd(w/TSX6th).

    I am looking into a VTEC killer camshaft(think beefier Kme small lobes) for my next k24 engine build.
    Last edited by talonXracer; 11-06-2010 at 11:23 AM.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

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  13. #283
    Rocking the k20a2.5 Deadphishy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    Snag a TSX or CRV evap solonoid and it is mounted off the TB.......on several cars with different manis that I have tuned, it seems that the best map signal seems to occur at the TB.

    One of the guys up here has seen excellent results with a K24A1(w/TSX slugs), BC stage 3 cams breathing thru a PRC mani with plenum spacer that didnt see those low end losses, an awesome DD hooked up to the base 5 spd(w/TSX6th).

    I am looking into a VTEC killer camshaft(think beefier Kme small lobes) for my next k24 engine build.
    I would think the BC 3's had to much duration for a 10.5:1 motor. I wonder what his results would be with stage 2's

  14. #284
    She Will Be missed LOVIN MY EP3's Avatar
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    quick question... would a strut bar interfere with a K24a2 because of the extra height ???

  15. #285
    ephatch member RHCP0801's Avatar
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    no, mine fit perfect

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