I copied my install posts over from DIYMA, I tried my best to make them as understandable as possible given they were posted over a 6 week period (at least) and in between MANY pages of discussion. it's obvious we lost all of the EP specific discussion here so if anyone has comments or questions go ahead and discuss. It's been completed for 6 months now and I'm still loving it.
Chad
2007 for my EP
First was the addition to an Audio Control Matrix to the rig to bump the levels up going to the Next amp, it was a nice improvement, lackluster, tossed it on the trunk floor and wired it up. My Ghetto trunk at the time..... With different signal cables.....
Next I did this year was change out the Morel tweets for the Seas Aluminums.. The review can be found here:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=14560
Pics, again nothing special....
That sums up till The beginning of July.
Chad
I do ham radio, yes I am a nerd, that solidifies the fact. Instead of re-typing it EPHatch style I'll copy what I posted on another forum. Some of it may sound redundant to you all...
In late July I decided to do a "real" radio install, that took some time! Installed is an Icom IC208H VHF/UHF FM dual band unit. 55W of RF output, tiny, with a remote mountable head.
From Hamsexy.com...........
It was time to ditch the HT and external antenna and do a "real-ish" install. I'm a bit picky about having shit just stuck places so the typical wacker install was not going to cut it. It needed to be tastefully integrated. Well, somewhat.
Bit of a background on the car, It's a daily driver and gets tinkered with. I'm an avid audio guy so it has a stereo in it that sometimes changes around, it's a "work in progress." That being said I'm not the jackass that comes beating down the street at 2AM, it's an install geared pretty much solely for sound quality (SQ) and packs less rated power than some stock entertainment systems. So audio and RF HAD TO get along, period.
On with the pics.....
Interior disassembly, with help from the boy, how often did YOU get to tear the hell out of dad's car?
He gets it done! Pretty handy kid, I'll bust them loose and he does the rest. The interior was amazingly clean for 40K miles of commuting!
So we get a couple "lowrider pics"
But that changes come install time.
That was about enough for one evening, I was getting buzzed. Also that evening I built the relay harness to switch the power from the battery on and off with the ACC circuit and planned my attack for the next morning.
The next morning started off nice and early... and dirty
Off with the inner wheel well to route power wiring, it is routed in split loom with the power wire (4Ga welding cable) for the amplifier in the hatch.
And I'll be damned if I did not get a pic with the sealing/protection grommet installed in the pass-thru, so it IS legit and not a fire-trap.
While I was at it I routed new signal cables for the audio, I need 6 channels for stereo 3 way and used Gepco 61801 pro cable because it's thin, light, flexible, cheap and has 100% foil shield. which makes this a good time to bring up the overkill coax I used too, it's Davis RF Bury-Flex. I had it, it's tough, low loss, and 100% foil shield. That stupid little rice burner is an RF noise NIGHTMARE even in the audio realm. The fuel pump is crazy noisy! Good (albeit cheap) cable makes a difference.
Audio cable:
I think I bought enough!
The microphone hides in the cubby in the center console and is attached via a CAT5 extension I whipped up Now you see it:
Now you don't:
Also visible in the last pic is the audio wiring, the remote head wiring, and the external speaker cabling which is the stock rear speakers that were previously un-used.
All buttoned in and ready to rock! :
The only issue I had was the mount for the radio was too tall, I THOUGHT it would clear just fine but upon installing the seat it hit. Out came the 3" pneumatic wheel and some fancy grinder/paint work and it clears with plenty of breathing room.
Next is the remote head mounting. I ran out of time that weekend and just set the head in a pocket in the console while fabbing up the new dash panel.
Chad
I then tackled the remote head mounting during a heat-wave, I got to work in the A/C’d shop :D
Most hams just stick shit places, the radio head even comes with velcro!!!!! Ugh!.... I roll different....
Again From Hamsexy………
Now that the invisible stuff is done it was time to work on a plan to make it "non wacker" I had an old dash install kit that was the wrong color, it had a CD pocket that was utterly useless, so it looked like a great place for the remote head.
I hacked the pocket off and enlarged the hole to fit the head height-wise:
Then I used the plastic from the pocket to cut out filler for the remaining "holes." I held them in with tape while I epoxied them in from the rear:
And got this:
I then pieced together a rear bracket for the head and epoxied that in using yet more blue tape to hold the depth of the head:
Vaseline! Get your head out of the gutters! It's a great mold release!
I wrapped the head in blue tape, slathered that in Vaseline and inserted it into position. I then used the plastic epoxy with plastic grindings from the cutting added as media. Several of my dog's hacked up insulin syringes came in rather handy to inject the filler media into the corners of the rough cuts. This conformed to the rounded edges of the radio but would not stick to the jelly.
After dry I knocked down the high spots and was ready for body filler:
I really screwed the pooch in pic taking here, I then filled it, then primed it, then painted it without taking a goddamn pic! It was dusty and I had the camera in the house. BUT on the last coat of paint a blob shot out and jacked up the first paint job, which is good because I hated the clear coat anyway! So sand away!
In that pic it was ready to prime and paint again and it worked out.
3 days later my dash puked a bunch of wire:
And shortly after I had a neatly installed headunit and remote head for my Icom!
Here's the before pics:
Chad
Then I bought this Fuggin JL 500/5. I love it, it allowed me to remove the Next and lose the Matrix and save a bit of space but the amp is huge! This kickstarted the want to have the hatch done.
Getto with JL.
Chad
Alright... This past weekend... Friday night I decided to start on the new sub enclosure. It was int he 50's this weekend so the glass did not dry as fast as I would have liked and I was down with the sickness Sat night. None the less.....
Pulled the gear out of the trunk (hatch)
Then the carpet and chipboard "floor" to reveal the spare.
The spare has a "tit" that is the retainer that would certainly be a PITA for glassing over.
So you remove it:
AND FLIP IT OVER!!!!!
I bought a new Hex head bolt to go in there from Lowes last night to retain the spare.
I cut a square Piece of MDF about 2' square to start the tub. Then cut a 17.5" circle in the center.
I rounded the edge over to aid in adhesion by giving it more surface area and a smoother bend then test fitted it.
Taped the "upside down tit" in with rock tape (gaffer's tape)
Then began taping the wheel up to make the mold
And kept taping
FINALLY!
First layer down, this is cloth, no mat yet. I found cloth was nice to make the mold with because it bends from the get-go without having to be wet and beat it into place.
Dry time......
After a little fine literature I was pleased to find out that Pam cooking spray IS Actually a fine mold release and you guys weren't jacking with me...
I then put another layer of cloth cut into strips and started mat. That's where I screwed the pooch. My resin mix was too hot and I got some nasty air bubbles. Sooo.. the next morning I took it outside and knocked all the air bubbles out thus removing about 1/2 of the second coat. At least it was re-workable.
After another layer:
Then i got sick of taking pics of "layers"
Sunday morning:
I filled it with water to measure the volume and trimmed the sides down to 19"
And checked it in the car for grins:
The final volume came out to be .2847222 Cubic feet, not bad. At 19" square I need to add about another 3" of height to hit my target of .7CuFt. I was planning on the floor being about 3.5" higher so it turned out as planned.
This week I need to build the sides up but before that I need to sit down with the calculator and figure out the porting. It will be a square wood port that will come off the driver's side and curl around to exit in the center rear by the back of the hatch. I plan to do math tonight. I spent yesterday (Sunday) cleaning the garage and shop, I need to finish the shop tonight before I continue (personal goal) I would LOVE to have a working sub module in there by this time next week, we will see.
The plan is to do the sub module in the center, the amp module off to the right as you are looking in and the jack/tool module to the left. I plan to have access panels to the actual driver and to pop off the amp. When the panels are in place nothing will be visible. :D
Chad
Chad,
This is av8ter's friend with the ep3. Were doing my install right now and were having trouble with getting the top part of the dash off. Do far we got the bracket screws off and now errr trying to get the 90* screws out. Is that necessary? What's next. Thanks
Zack
The bottom pops off (which you likely found out) then in there you need to LOOSEN the 2 bolts (either 7 or 8 MM) that are holding the metal assembly to the inner dash. after that you can carefully pop the assembly out remembering that the HVAC wiring is still connected.Originally Posted by whoisasdf
Made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good.
The only unknown is the glass part. The top was calculated to meet the desired volume. As for sub displacement. It's a manufacturers specification.
Last edited by monsterk20; 02-04-2009 at 09:27 AM.
Made with bits of real panther, so you know it's good.
It looks like you're grounding the amp on one of those child seat bolts, is that right?
Also, I broke my drivers door trim trying to rip the bottom part out without taking off the seatbelt. From the exterior of the panel it didn't look like it went all the way around the bolt. But anyway, I was told that the seatbelt bolt is some kinda tension-blah-blah one-time only thing, and taking it apart is a big insurance risk if I don't get it fixed at the dealership and get in an accident I might void my insurance, some safety thing, am I hearing wrong? How did you handle it?
I know this is an old thread, but did you have to drill the hole in the wheel well area to run you power? If so do you have any tips. I was running my power cable through the hole for the fog lights because I didn't have fogs. I just installed fogs this weekend and now am in need of a new hole and couldn't get a drill anywhere close enough to drill a new hole. Was thinking a right angle drill, buts any tips would be appreciated.
I drilled an extra hole next to the fog light hole with a 90 degree drill and a unibit. What size power wire are you trying to run?
Last edited by jeenyusss; 05-04-2009 at 04:27 PM.
I'm running a 4 gauge wire. I have a unibit that I was going to use already as well as a grommet, just wasn't sure if a right angle drill would fit in there. Did you drill it from the interior cabin or from the exterior fender side? Looks like I'll be picking up a right angle drill sometime this week. Hopefully there will be some 4th of July sales going on.
You do some nice work. Haven't seen you around much lately.
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