Close

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 76 to 90 of 99
  1. #76
    Registered User ttttrigg3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westminster
    Posts
    578
    how would you make it so that it beeps on the first lock? I would love something like that

  2. #77
    Ephatch Sponsor nmysiismyn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Riverside, SoCal
    Posts
    1,234
    Quote Originally Posted by BobsElise View Post
    I just did this last night on the passenger's side. It was a great feeling to fix it after a year of being broken.
    I bet. I sure hope I don't go years without it.
    Now that my driver's side is going out, I figure it'll just be an excuse to replace them both...

    Honda should have an effin' recall on these bishes!

    Quote Originally Posted by ttttrigg3r View Post
    how would you make it so that it beeps on the first lock? I would love something like that
    Sorry mang.. I don't. Honda installed mine a week after I bought my egg new.
    I've tried to understand what they did, by looking at everything under the dash, but it's a rat's nest under there.

    Try Googling it. I bet you can find a DIY on it.

  3. #78
    Registered User ttttrigg3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westminster
    Posts
    578
    so Honda installed something else after you already bought it? Dang. I thought it was an out-of-box option to turn on.

  4. #79
    Registered User Calvinep3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    157
    Quote Originally Posted by nmysiismyn View Post
    IDK why replacing your actuators would case the horn to stop working. I'm assuming you connected the pigtails properly. So, I'm thinking a wire got wiggled loose or something.

    Factory-installed Honda alarms are installed to beep once during locking and twice during unlocking. I made Honda change it to how you guys are describing it- once after pressing lock twice (within 5 seconds after) and not at all during unlocking.

    Good luck with the fix.

    My passenger's side actuator went out recently and now my driver's side is on it's way out. Bummed.
    I noticed it right after installing the actuator. On the second lock press the horn didnt honk. But i was so relived to get it fixed that I left it alone. Could it be the wrong actuator? Bc my neighbor bought it for me. He is a honda mechanic, maybe he got an em2 one?

  5. #80
    Ephatch Sponsor nmysiismyn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Riverside, SoCal
    Posts
    1,234
    Quote Originally Posted by ttttrigg3r View Post
    so Honda installed something else after you already bought it? Dang. I thought it was an out-of-box option to turn on.
    IDK if it was for all their new vehicles at the time, but they had to make an appointment for me to have an out-of-house installer come to the dealership and install it- even though the alarm was already on the sticker price. It was SO long ago, I can't remember exactly, but I think that was the case for all their new vehicles.

    After they installed it, they made another appointment for me because I told them that I couldn't stand hearing the horn EVERY single time I locked and unlocked my car.

    I don't think he installed anything. I think he just made an adjustment with the wiring or something...

  6. #81
    Registered User vip...9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Japan/California
    Posts
    15
    Fuuu... mine is pooped as well, so I have to enter the passenger side to open the driver side because the keyhole doesnt work either... i think the bracket inside came off.

  7. #82
    Ephatch Sponsor nmysiismyn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Riverside, SoCal
    Posts
    1,234
    Quote Originally Posted by vip...9 View Post
    Fuuu... mine is pooped as well, so I have to enter the passenger side to open the driver side because the keyhole doesnt work either... i think the bracket inside came off.
    Damn. That sucks.
    My driver's side is only acting up at this point and the few times it has, I've had to enter through the passenger's side too.

    I replaced my driver's side door in the past cuz I had a super deep gash on it and got a phat deal on a complete door with inner panels, glass, side mirror and all.. I pretty much swapped out everything but the outer handle and lock... SURE wish I would've now.

  8. #83
    Registered User JoelzEP3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    55
    Finally have my keyless entry working, thanks to this thread.
    Last edited by lostniraq25; 03-15-2009 at 01:12 AM.

  9. #84
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    chicago burbs
    Posts
    18
    awesome thread! might need to do this soon :(

  10. #85
    ephatch member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Chicago Area
    Posts
    1,240
    used this video today. I have needed to do this for 4 friggen years and even had the replacement. I just got around to it today.

  11. #86
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    40
    Anyone know if the part numbers quoted in this thread differ from LHD and RHD model EP3's???

    Trying to find a replacement for a JDM RHD model and I'm unsure if they're different?

  12. #87
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    398
    FUCK....i have 1 screw left on my actuator that i cant get off DAMN LOCTITE!

    im pretty sure i stripped it trying to get it off by now (i have replacement honda screws with the orange loctite on them)
    sry for my language...can anyone give me any advice -_-

    EDIT:nvm i figured a way around it...

    i got out my mini saw and sawed through my old actuator to get it off...it took like 20 mins...but i got it done

    installed new actuator and everything works perfectly again =]

    my keyless entry is back! =D
    Last edited by NEO_FOLLOWER2; 04-07-2012 at 12:30 AM.

  13. #88
    SSM EP3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    U S & A
    Posts
    215
    FINALLY DID MINE TODAY! well the passenger side lol the stupid bolt was getting stripped so it took me two days lol i might do the driver side tomorrow though.. i have so much free time with my car since the clutch is fried and i wont be driving anywhere till i get some more money :( lol

    I need to sell some parts that are laying around lol

  14. #89
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1
    I don't what I'm doing wrong, but I've done the stupid drivers side twice. Both times, I pull it all apart, try the new actuator just hanging on the loom and it works. Put the new actuator in, try it, it works. Put *everything* back together, and it stops working, and the actuator doesn't do anything. The passenger and hatch will lock/unlock with both the fob and door switch, but the drivers side does not click or even attempt to open/close. Plus you can't lock it now, the rod will not go up or down. So I take it all apart again, pull everything out, and now the actuator is locked in one position and won't move. I can't understand why *both* actuators do the same thing? As soon as it's buttoned up, it locks up and will not ever work again. I'm about ready to throw in the towel here.

  15. #90
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    40

    My experence with chinzy door lock actuators

    If the new actuator is locked to one side, it is defective. It should always spring return to center. I recently replaced both actuators with ones I bought off the internet for about $25 each, brand unknown. Within several weeks both of them failed in the same manner i.e. locking to one side or the other. A telltale of this type of failure is that the linkage jams either locked or unlocked and cannot be moved with the manual popup in the door panel i.e. the popup stays up or down and cannot be moved by hand. My next move was to buy the actuators from NAPA for about $40 each. The NAPA actuators were Ecklin brand and they have now operated flawlessly for months.
    One thing I noticed about the Ecklin brand actuators vs. the crappy ones was that the crappy actuators had the two halves screwed together with a small cross section o-ring seal much like the OEM ones and the Ecklin brand had the two halves glued together.
    One of the failures was a real pain in the #$% for me because it happened on a trip across the states to visit my brother. The drivers door jammed in in the unlocked position so I couldn't lock the car. That forced me to drive nonstop for over 1500 miles because I didn't want to leave my car in a motel or resturant parking lot unlocked. After I got to my brother's and slept for over 12 hours, I went to the local NAPA and got a new actuator and installed it in my brothers shop. My trip home took three days and was much more relaxed.
    When you install, be sure to completely test and then retest the actuator before reassembling the door panel. I found it somewhat difficult to get the linkage into the hole in the actuator arm and there is no way to know until you test it both directions (lock and unlock). I had to screw around for over an hour on the drivers side to get the linkage working by removing and reinstalling. Don't forget that the door closed switch must be depressed when testing, I taped mine down temporarily.

    Hope this helps,

    AceEngineer

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •