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  1. #46
    MONEY ON MY MIND RAMSES EP3's Avatar
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    im going to have to try this out

  2. #47
    Vermicious Knid oldschoolimport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    but if that wire were to short to ground you start tearing things up in the multiplexer which is not a cheap venture and often takes other things "down with the ship"

    Chad
    I had an actuator kill my multiplexor, or vice-versa. it sucks!

  3. #48
    CIUDAD DE LA FURIA PuMpKiN_Ep3's Avatar
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    looks good... i'll probably go with red lights for mine..

  4. #49
    I collect hatches... VegaS10's Avatar
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    I'm going to take my camera to work today and take some pics of how to wire these up. Some folks have been asking for more detail, so, I'm gonna try and remember to do this.

    I should have the pics up later tonight.

  5. #50
    I collect hatches... VegaS10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danman281 View Post
    Sorry I'm a noob when it comes to electrical. What do you mean by "Single plug (use female spade terminal for connection) on fuse box is +12V for power". Which one is it?

    I nevered played with the fuse box before.
    So basically ALL THE ITEMS required is
    1. like 16 LED's
    2. X feet of Y gauge wires
    3. plexi stuff
    4. X amount of fuses

    ?

    like... I don't even know how to construct the small led's together...
    The green/red in the big harness in the kickpanel is ground. The single terminal in the picture of the fusebox at the end of my finger is used for positive. Just look at the pic. It's under and to the right of the yellow srs plug.

    I used 12 LEDs to do this, roughly 8-10 feet of 16 gauge speaker wire, and the same amount of loom. A piece of plexi that was maybe...4 inches by 2 inches that I cut in half (and had to grind down alot to fit...lol). 2 fuse holders (one for the positive terminal 5 amp will do, and one for the ground pre Chad's request, put a .5 amp in there if you can.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    How do 4 do in series as opposed to 3? 3 may just be pushing them just a tad at running voltage.
    I dunno about 4. We just used 6 per side. I can't remember if we did 2 rows 3 or just did all 6 together....lol...it's been a couple of months since I did this.

  6. #51
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    Ok, That's cool, I recently did 4 whites in series at 12V but and they ran a bit warm AND need more voltage, it all depends on the current consumption and voltage needs of the LED as to how the voltage will drop across each, you MAY have done 6 in series because IIRC when I was pimping out my kid's quad I had like 5-6 in series at 13.8 volts and they seemed rather confortable.

    I've had mixed results in series without resistors and attribute that to QC of the LED's

    Chad

  7. #52
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldschoolimport View Post
    I had an actuator kill my multiplexor, or vice-versa. it sucks!
    Ouch, and to drive the point home... how much did that cost you?

  8. #53
    No Fat Chicks Danman281's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VegaS10 View Post
    The green/red in the big harness in the kickpanel is ground. The single terminal in the picture of the fusebox at the end of my finger is used for positive. Just look at the pic. It's under and to the right of the yellow srs plug.

    I used 12 LEDs to do this, roughly 8-10 feet of 16 gauge speaker wire, and the same amount of loom. A piece of plexi that was maybe...4 inches by 2 inches that I cut in half (and had to grind down alot to fit...lol). 2 fuse holders (one for the positive terminal 5 amp will do, and one for the ground pre Chad's request, put a .5 amp in there if you can.)



    I dunno about 4. We just used 6 per side. I can't remember if we did 2 rows 3 or just did all 6 together....lol...it's been a couple of months since I did this.
    Ohh ok... I think I get it now. lol thanks

    edit: so that LED part is just made out of plexi (which is like a clear plastic) with hot glue over the other side?

  9. #54
    I collect hatches... VegaS10's Avatar
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    Correct.

    I just cut some small plexi, drilled the holes in it, mounted the LEDs, soldered them up and coated the back with the glue. The glue held everything in place and keeps it from grounding out.

  10. #55
    Vermicious Knid oldschoolimport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    Ouch, and to drive the point home... how much did that cost you?
    the multiplexor has no individual part number, so you have to purchase the underdash fuse box. honda wanted $260, but I got one used for $100. I then got the actuator for $34 after my discount.

  11. #56
    No Fat Chicks Danman281's Avatar
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    I get it now... its not too hard. ms paint

    Right?

    How did you connect it to the fuse box? Is that spot always a 12 volt (hot)? What size LED is that?

    btw, anyone know where to find a picture of the JDM oem ones? Post a pic for comparison. I love this thread already
    Last edited by Danman281; 05-02-2008 at 01:37 PM. Reason: fix image

  12. #57
    I want a big block! thechromecoyote's Avatar
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    You could probably find some SMT (surface mount technology) LED's on Ebay or something if you look hard enough. They are small button sized LED's already mounted on a backing.

  13. #58
    Most Interesting Man SiN05's Avatar
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    is ther any other way to wire this to your fuse box without tapping into the dome light wires? Is there an unused slot that would have been for the JDM lights but isn't used but gives the same effect or are they totally different?

  14. #59
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    When I do it in a couple weeks I plan to go to the dome light to do that so the dome light switch activates/deactivates the footlights as well. Just like in my old '78 monte carlo :D

    Why the hell did the ever stop putting them in?

  15. #60
    I collect hatches... VegaS10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechromecoyote View Post
    You could probably find some SMT (surface mount technology) LED's on Ebay or something if you look hard enough. They are small button sized LED's already mounted on a backing.
    SMTs are PAINFULLY small to work with. It's frustrating enough to piss off the Pope.

    Quote Originally Posted by SiN05 View Post
    is ther any other way to wire this to your fuse box without tapping into the dome light wires? Is there an unused slot that would have been for the JDM lights but isn't used but gives the same effect or are they totally different?
    That wire is the only one I found that works and gives the "fade" effect.

    Quote Originally Posted by Danman281 View Post
    How did you connect it to the fuse box? Is that spot always a 12 volt (hot)? What size LED is that?
    On your diagram, the wiring at the actual LED pad is incorrect, but you have the rest of it correct. I simply used a .250 female spade connector to plug into that spot on the fuse panel. That spot is constantly "hot". I forgot the size of the LEDs. I've ordered so many over the year I don't remember. I'll try and find it later tonight.

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