Reply With QuoteYeah, the aem garbage rail. I just use it since it has a tap for a marshall fp gauge.Originally Posted by talonXracer
Fuel gauge? You have an aftermarket fuel rail?
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Yeah, the aem garbage rail. I just use it since it has a tap for a marshall fp gauge.
If the gauge is fluttering then it sounds like the fuel pulse damper isnt working. Did you use the proper sealing washers in the proper locations when bolting the damper on?
Did you try swapping injectors around?
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Yeah it pulses more than I ever remember seeing before I noticed, I installed it correctly with the damper and everything. If I remember it wouldn't even move when it was idling before. I had 750's on and swapped in my 440's and still the same problem, the kal was changed to the base greddy kit. I swapped the coilpacks around and the plugs. I double checked my injector clips so it's getting fuel. #2 #3 #4 are working fine #1 plug is turning sooty black even after a few seconds of running. Valve lash seems right on.
screw the a3 and put in the k24! i wanna see that turbo in action!!!!!!!!!!!!!
might be a dumb idea but do u have extra fuel going to cyl one in kpro? sometimes the easiest solution is the right one...maybe go thro ur kpro tune, something might be wrong in there.....
thats what i thought a first. that maybe the fuel trim for the #1 cylinder was set high but he loaded the base .kal and it was still doing it.
Last edited by dustyboner; 04-30-2008 at 09:37 PM.
I'm thinking the screw too it as well. I was planning on swapping it this weekend anyway but now I can't sell the motor.screw the a3 and put in the k24! i wanna see that turbo in action!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah I checked the fuel trim and it's set correctly, I took the car around the block but it's for sure something wrong. It has no power and jerks under throttle like it wants to go but not all the cylinders are popping. I pulled the plug when I got back and it was covered in soot.
That seems like you have excess crankcase pressure, could explain the low compression.
Take the breather filter or hose to your intake off depending on what you've got. I have a feeling your going to find a large amount of oil shooting out of that tube.
That much crankcase pressure would mean that you have a leak in a cylinder seal.
The fluctuating fuel gauge could be a result of the pressure in the cylinders escaping and the resistance on the fuel injectors changing very rapidly.
I think you've got a gasket leaking somewhere.
edit: you could have damaged one of your rings due to incomplete combustion in the cylinder, or a damaged ring could be causing the incomplete combustion, but if theres as much air as your describing coming out of the oil fill hole that would definitely insinuate a cylinder ring has lost its seal.
Last edited by v1c10us; 04-30-2008 at 09:41 PM.
Yeah, the air coming out of the valve cover makes noise and shoots a bit of oil out at its velocity. I have a breather filter attached to the valve cover, perhaps it blocked up since I didn't notice much oil around it. I think your correct in your assessment of the cylinder leak. Could this be a head gasket leak? What does white smoke at the tail pipe mean? Seems it is worse when the engine is cold, when it warms up it seems to run better but when I throttle it or hit boost you can feel it cutting out.
By the way thanks again for everyones help, I guess I'll be starting my swap tomorrow. Look put for a bunch of stupid questions while I'm doing that.
Last edited by MR.Pizza; 04-30-2008 at 09:54 PM.
it could be a head gasket leak but if it is one of those its a minor one. I think its a cylinder ring.
white smoke is water vapor or oil.
If it is a leak it will be okay under average pressures but when you start trying to give it gas there will be more force in the cylinder and the gasses are going to blow by the cylinder rings and enter the crank case, shooting out that breather filter.
This has probably damaged your Positive crank ventilation valve as well.
If you can get the head off and inspect the gasket that could give you some clues, inspect the cylinder rings etc.
What have you been boosting at? you said you've got the greddy kit so im assuming 9ish psi?
When you swap the motor, since it seems like your going to do it anyway, get the head off the block and inspect. You might be able to fix the problem in your spare time and still sell it.
Again I think your right on the ring. I'll pull engine apart when I get a chance and see what it is but getting the new engine in seems overwhelming right now is all. I was boosting 8psi but I think I did it last night. I parked my car in front of my house cause a friend was blocking the garage. I went and pulled it into the garage at about 2am in my boxers and it was very cold last night and didn't let the car warm up before I moved it. I new I should have let it warm up and I always do but was just in a hurry.
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Something is causing the #1 cylinder to have too much fuel. How about just disconnecting that cylinders injector and trying to run the car.
70% of the time a misfire is from TOO MUCH fuel, not a lack of spark. In fact after simply stating to swap out plug and coil the next three pages in the Helms is all concerned with fuel supply issue troubleshooting.
Too much fuel will fuel wash the cylinder walls and remove the oil, then you will wear the rings abnormally quick.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Yeah , I tried disconnecting the injector clip. I'm not sure what I was looking for but the engine did run worse. I pulled the coil pack and could hear the engine stop firing that cylinder so the cylinder is working. I am amazed that the brand new plug will be covered in black soot within seconds. I know I was running a bit rich at wot with the 750's but all my old plugs where showing good combustion. I did another compression test on that cylinder and it was down to 140 this time after the car was warm. By the way I ran the car for about 30 minutes and I never got a misfire code. I did have obd 2 disabled so I'm not sure if it would throw the code though.
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