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Thread: K24a2/k20z3

  1. #1
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    K24a2/k20z3

    I been searching around and no one really seems to have this setup yet. Is a K24A2 block / K20Z3 head possible? If so, would I need any additional parts?

  2. #2
    ephatch member
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    I was running a k24a1/z3. Its a direct bolt on just the basic new head gasket ect.

  3. #3
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    I have a K24A1 block, K24A2 crankshaft,Z3 head build going right now.
    http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42986

    I think there are more than a few K24 builds going on right now, best upgrade going!
    Last edited by talonXracer; 04-30-2008 at 05:04 PM.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    I have a K24A1 block, K24A2 crankshaft,Z3 head build going right now.
    http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42986

    I think there are more than a few K24 builds going on right now, best upgrade going!
    Is there a certain reason why you went with the K24A1 block than the K24A2 block?

  5. #5
    Time Attack Beast Guardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michinsi View Post
    Is there a certain reason why you went with the K24A1 block than the K24A2 block?
    i dont know his reasons but for 1. its cheaper and 2. you dont need to delete the squirters for forged pistons cause it doesnt have any


    if you are going to keep the block stock get the k24a2 and if you get a k20a2/k24a2 head you dont have to deal with the water port. or you can get a rbc for the z3 head but who wants hot water running through the im?

  6. #6
    Indapino the JigGa mAn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michinsi View Post
    Is there a certain reason why you went with the K24A1 block than the K24A2 block?
    I believe it was cheaper

  7. #7
    OG Triple OG PAPITUYO326's Avatar
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    NO need to swap out the head on a k24a2 block. The head is ready to make power as is. The reason you dont see people do it is because it is not a cost effective option. The k20z3/k24z2 setup will make great power though.

    I have a k20z3 head on a k24a1 as well. Setup works great. I chose it due to its lower compression and lower cost.
    Your most reliable source for K24 swap help and warrantied/papered K24 longblocks. Serving the K-community since 2004.

    The Evolution:
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  8. #8
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michinsi View Post
    Is there a certain reason why you went with the K24A1 block than the K24A2 block?
    It was a ultra cheap shortblock. I didnt need everything else as I was going to rebuild with forged parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guardian View Post
    i dont know his reasons but for 1. its cheaper and 2. you dont need to delete the squirters for forged pistons cause it doesnt have any


    if you are going to keep the block stock get the k24a2 and if you get a k20a2/k24a2 head you dont have to deal with the water port. or you can get a rbc for the z3 head but who wants hot water running through the im?
    The coolant port fix is ultra easy and cheap to do.

    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  9. #9
    ephatch member 02_epdriver's Avatar
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    I have an A1 block as well. I also have an A2 head and a Z3 head, probably leaning more towards the Z3 head

  10. #10
    R.I.P. k20a2 shadowmd's Avatar
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    the k24a2/z3 will move in "stock" form. i ran one, trust me, they are quick lol

  11. #11
    Registered User boricua4life's Avatar
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    back from the dead.... thinking about doing this any new info on this.... i already have both the tsx motor and the head btw just wanting to see if its worth looking into.

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