Reply With Quotei find u have to hold the throttle longer than that to get a noticable difference....bout 5 minsOriginally Posted by MugenReplica
Manual approved even!
i find u have to hold the throttle longer than that to get a noticable difference....bout 5 mins
Last edited by jimmyjames; 05-01-2008 at 07:15 AM. Reason: removing picture from quote
I unplugged the battery without doing this, car drives fine but whats the downside? I heard it was bad to rev up while cold. I'm sure if the handbook says its right then its right though
3000 wont hurt the engine cold, but if it worries you, maybe you just get the car up to temp before doing this? :noidea: just an idea
but you are definitely right, very bad to rev a cold engine, glad to hear someone express concern over this...it makes me sad how many of my friends rev the shit out of cold engines
my ep is white...
- We can talk numbers all you want, but the bullshit stops when the flag drops...
we just love our cars too much3000 wont hurt the engine cold, but if it worries you, maybe you just get the car up to temp before doing this? :noidea: just an idea
but you are definitely right, very bad to rev a cold engine, glad to hear someone express concern over this...it makes me sad how many of my friends rev the shit out of cold engines
this was one of the first things my dad taught me. to NOT push the engine while it warms up.. he compared it to sprinting a 100 meter dash without a warm up, ya it's possible, but the chance for injury increases... i dunno how true that is for engines, but nevertheless i still wait till my temp gauge is normal before any type of spirited driving...3000 wont hurt the engine cold, but if it worries you, maybe you just get the car up to temp before doing this? :noidea: just an idea
but you are definitely right, very bad to rev a cold engine, glad to hear someone express concern over this...it makes me sad how many of my friends rev the shit out of cold engines
its very very true, especially because it has to do with the viscosity of your oil as well...first off engine parts are going to be cold, and the metal will expand as it warms, so this is of course a factor for cleanance on rings, etc...second with the oil, when the oil is cold it is designed to be a certain weight oil, colder the weather, the thicker the oil...so when you warm up the engine, the oil gets warmed up so it is the proper operating viscosity for your enginebut that same oil is designed to run in colder temps, but for optimum operating viscosity it needs to be warmed up...
atleast i think i got that right, im terrible at explaining this stuff...oil is actually very very complicated and involved
my ep is white...
- We can talk numbers all you want, but the bullshit stops when the flag drops...
I don't let the engine warm all the way up to normal i live next to a highway where i pull out into 65 mph two lane, i just give the engine about 45 seconds to a minute to get the oil squirted everywhere, and go.its very very true, especially because it has to do with the viscosity of your oil as well...first off engine parts are going to be cold, and the metal will expand as it warms, so this is of course a factor for cleanance on rings, etc...second with the oil, when the oil is cold it is designed to be a certain weight oil, colder the weather, the thicker the oil...so when you warm up the engine, the oil gets warmed up so it is the proper operating viscosity for your engine
atleast i think i got that right, im terrible at explaining this stuff...oil is actually very very complicated and involved
3000 rmps no load is not pushing a Honda motor IMHO...
yeah thats what you are going to be shifting at driving down the road anyways.
the engine will re learn the idle by itself after 100 or so miles of driving too.
When you're having problems, the first thing worth trying is the idle learn procedure. The ECM uses non-volatile memory to keep track of the IAC position when the engine and ECM are turned off. Each car has a unique IAC value that takes into account the condition of the sensors, air and vacuum passages, etc. Whenever the ECM loses battery power (which clears the stored IAC position) or significant changes to the system (e.g. sensors are replaced) it is a good idea to perform the idle learn procedure.
The procedure in the service manual was superseded by a more recent service bulletin. It says to turn the car complete off (remove the key), remove power from the ECM for 20 seconds and then start the car. Let it idle for 10 minutes. Shut it off for 20 seconds and then start it and let it run for 5 minutes. Shut it off again and you're done.
The first 15 minutes of the procedure is to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. So an alternate method would be to warm the car up, shut it off, remove power from the ECM, and then run the car for 5 minutes and shut it off.
I've been told that some scan tools have the ability to perform an idle learn on some makes and models. This method is supposed to be much faster, only taking one or two minutes. Note that Chevrolet technical service bulletin (TSB 91-114-6E) indicates that some versions of the GM TECH I scan tool ECM cartridge will not work with the W engine.
If you have the factory service manual you can figure out that instead of disconnecting the battery (which resets the clock and zeros your radio station presets), you can remove the "inline fuel fuse." This is located under the dash on the firewall next to the relays.
http://www.xse.com/leres/efidiag/idlelearn.html
So... I've done the idle Relearn about 5 times yestarday. I have replaced my IAC Valve and all should be fine, but this is where the car keeps idleing at:
It even ideals higher sometimes. What am I doing wrong?
I held the gas down at 3K till the fan turned off, then I left it alone for 5 minutes.... This didn't work.
I then looked more on Ephatch and they said there is a revised version of this where you should just let the car idle for 15 minutes untill fan turns on and car is at normal operating temperature.... I DID THIS ONE 4X! LOL
ANY SUGESTIONS?
Basically, the idea is to get the car up to normal temp, then just let it sit at idle for a while. It will figure things out on it's own. I've always found it's easier to just reconnect the battery, start her up, and let her run for about 20 minutes. That should do the trick.So... I've done the idle Relearn about 5 times yestarday. I have replaced my IAC Valve and all should be fine, but this is where the car keeps idleing at:
It even ideals higher sometimes. What am I doing wrong?
I held the gas down at 3K till the fan turned off, then I left it alone for 5 minutes.... This didn't work.
I then looked more on Ephatch and they said there is a revised version of this where you should just let the car idle for 15 minutes untill fan turns on and car is at normal operating temperature.... I DID THIS ONE 4X! LOL
ANY SUGESTIONS?
I think the process described in the manual is just designed to be quicker, since it's supposed to be done in a Honda service facility, and they obviously have an interest in turning jobs around faster.
If all else fails, just keep driving it; it should sort itself out in ~100 miles or so.
Finally, you said you did this 4x...did you unplug the battery before each try? If you're just trying to redo it without disconnecting power from the ECU, it's not gonna work that way. :D
Do your throttle cables need to be adjusted?
Also the idle relearn is high idle at 3K for 3 minutes(subtracting any time the fans run from that three minutes), so when the fans run, you do not count that time towards the three minutes total time.
Any codes?
Last edited by talonXracer; 06-25-2010 at 07:16 AM.
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I will keep driving it to see what happens..... And I did unplug the ECU and STILL the same BS idle... :-(
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