Reply With QuoteWhere should I buy sound deading? I will get raped if I buy it local.
I plan on starting my audio build this weekend. It will take me some time! But I plan to do the battery relocation this weekend. So if I am putting the battery in back where is the best place to run the power up to the front (Chad?) If someone has pictures of where they drilled in to there firewall that would be great! I will be make the battery holder part of an amp rack or something! I will be plannin this all this weekend! Pics will be up as I go!
I need suggestions!
EDIT:
Now I have decide to keep the bat. up front now.
Suggestions.
Last edited by RON; 05-02-2008 at 11:34 AM.
Where should I buy sound deading? I will get raped if I buy it local.
ebay maybe?
Find Rick From Rammatt for deadning, DIYMA search will turn him up, GREAT GUY!!!!
As for wire... Do you have foglights? Plan to get them?
I used E-dead on the doors and floor, never used RAAMAT before. Not sure how much better it is, I'll have to try it on my next project car.
I was running a pair of JL300/2's on my QSD216's (front only) and never had a rattle, door sounded nice and solid when shutting.
Ya i saw that! I will call him next week!Originally Posted by Chad
What do you mean about foglights?
Well here in Omaha it is Birkshire Hathaway days! So all week the Birk stores are crazy discounted! Nebrask Furniture Mart (worlds largest furniture store) is a Birk store. I bought all new appliances for the kitchen (stainless steal oven stove-top, built in microwave, and fridge). And since i did that the wife let me buy a head unit! I have wanted one to control my I-pod since I got it (three years ago)! Pioneer Premier Deh-p600ub!
Chad if you didn't notice I am keeping the battery up front! I am going to get a Stinger. Where can I get that cheap.
Last edited by RON; 08-07-2008 at 06:21 AM.
I ran my power wire through one of the existing grommets, drilling is a pain in the ass, avoid it at all costs. The location is right behind the glovebox.
I've used E-Dead as well, good stuff and not as pricey as Dynomat.
I think he was asking about the fog lights because there is a hole that will accept up to a 1/0 ga wire through it. I bought my sound deadner off ebay. it was fatmat or something like that. make sure whatever you get get the .70 mil not the thinner stuff. you will thank yourself later. I got 100 sf for about 150 shipped a couple years ago and was able to do the complete interior and have spare to sell to a friend that wanted his trunk done almost ofsetting the complete cost.
I used Fatmat on my EG hatch. Great stuff, just use a heatgun and roller when applying.
Well the head unit is installed and is awesome! I love being able to plug the ipod in and never look at it again. It also made the stock speakers system sound way better! I was able to turn down the gain on my amp for the subs because i am no longer using a LOC.
Here is a pic of my dirty garage!
Here is it installed.
I also upgrade all the battery and ground connections!
Next step is to deaden the car and find a decent 4 channel amp as well as new components.
Ok have found a good deal on JL 10"w6. What should I design for a box. I plan to do a fiber glass encloser in the corner. where should i put it and facing which direction. Sealed or ported? I am look for real tight bass but I want it to go low.
Chad fire up those engines!LOL
Suggestions?
For the JL's I love them in a sealed box. I ended building a box for my 10w7 that way. The listed specs in the owners manual is what I would go with. Match your sealed enclosure volumes to that and it should sound damn good!
but when you make a fiber glass enclosure how do you test volume before you finish? Volume test fill with water. I have always just done square (what i mean is no curves) boxes so it was really easy to do a volume calculation.
Chad? What is your input?
I'd run a sealed glass enclosure in each corner, When I was playing with my movable box I found driver orientation to make no difference as long as you were corner loading it. ONE COULD glass the whole wheel-well cavity all the way forward to the rear seat to gain some airspace above the wheel-well. Which W6's are they? Newer or older? Finding volume is a bitch, beanbag beans (small foam "BB's") work wonders, some use packing peanuts but they leave such an air void and pack different that you will have a tough time getting an accurate measure. For example if you gave me 100 packing peanuts and an hour or 2 I could arrange them to get MANY different volumes, Water works but not as well as it does in a situation I had with "the tub" but damn it's accurate. You are going to have to guesstimate the enclosure volume regardless, I knew my tub volume and then designed the upper part around that volume to hit a target volume. If you can make them a bit larger it's always MUCH easier to decrease volume than to add, a couple pieces of spare wood glassed in there after the fact not only adds stiffening but takes up space. Sealed enclosures are very forgiving to volume discrepancies, MUCH more so than vented where volume plays a crucial role in tuning. Unless you are very creative vented is out for now, unless you have a volume that will suit a vented enclosure and can get handy with external venting. BUT that can be done after the fact if you feel that the 2 sealed enclosures are lacking, which I suspect they will do fine since you have twice the cone surface area as I do. Do your best to keep the enclosure volumes equal, remember that all enclosures have a frequency response AND a phase response which is directly correlated to volume, FR is not as big of deal as the phase response. When they are equal both drivers couple the best.
IF You NEVER plan to install fogs then you can use the hole intended for the fog lamp harness that leads into the drivers side fender area for the power wire. If you even think you are going to install fogs then don't, unless you want a healthy job ahead of you when installing fogs, I had to drill a new hole in that area and it liked to killed me even using the right tools.
Chad
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