Which W6? The newer ones are pretty deep aren't they?
Which W6? The newer ones are pretty deep aren't they?
Dunno about pricing, have not been inteh market for a while :D
I just wonder about the depth of the driver and getting it in that corner without it sticking into the hatch area too far.
Way back corner, like by the tail lights.
Heard nothing yet, I'm sure they will be tested and reviewed soon.
So I have been doing a lot of research on sound deading. And from what I have read:
The system plan on building: No more that 1000 watts (no like 500) to a sub and 400 watts to the front 4. I probably don't need to deaden the whole car like I had planned. And with gas going up keeping any weight out would be good. I do know that I am going to do the areas around the speakers but what other place would you say?
I felt the best places to deaden were just the hatch, front doors, and the rear speaker area, but just around the speakers themselves. Im guessing it added 20 or so lbs at most. I also used Fatmat, Dynamat is paying for the name imo. I have the JL 500/1 going to the 10" W7, gain turned about 3/4 way up. Using the 300/4 with the gain all the way up for the fronts, about 2/3 for the rear. Seems like a nice balance since its so easy to drown out the mids and tweets with the sub. Make sure to have your crossovers set up nicely, and plan on spending a few hours tuning for that right sound. Sounds like your gonna have a damn good setup, cant wait to see it all finished!
A deflex pad behind the door speakers does wonders too!
It's a very "rubbery foam", tough to explain. It's adhered to the inside of the outer door skin.
I did the "holler in the hole" test before and after and it substantially cut down on ringing, which, cuts down considerably on intermod distortion.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks