My project is going to start!

[RON]

I'd run a sealed glass enclosure in each corner, When I was playing with my movable box I found driver orientation to make no difference as long as you were corner loading it. ONE COULD glass the whole wheel-well cavity all the way forward to the rear seat to gain some airspace above the wheel-well. Which W6's are they? Newer or older? Finding volume is a bitch, beanbag beans (small foam "BB's") work wonders, some use packing peanuts but they leave such an air void and pack different that you will have a tough time getting an accurate measure. For example if you gave me 100 packing peanuts and an hour or 2 I could arrange them to get MANY different volumes, Water works but not as well as it does in a situation I had with "the tub" but damn it's accurate. You are going to have to guesstimate the enclosure volume regardless, I knew my tub volume and then designed the upper part around that volume to hit a target volume. If you can make them a bit larger it's always MUCH easier to decrease volume than to add, a couple pieces of spare wood glassed in there after the fact not only adds stiffening but takes up space. Sealed enclosures are very forgiving to volume discrepancies, MUCH more so than vented where volume plays a crucial role in tuning. Unless you are very creative vented is out for now, unless you have a volume that will suit a vented enclosure and can get handy with external venting. BUT that can be done after the fact if you feel that the 2 sealed enclosures are lacking, which I suspect they will do fine since you have twice the cone surface area as I do. Do your best to keep the enclosure volumes equal, remember that all enclosures have a frequency response AND a phase response which is directly correlated to volume, FR is not as big of deal as the phase response. When they are equal both drivers couple the best.

IF You NEVER plan to install fogs then you can use the hole intended for the fog lamp harness that leads into the drivers side fender area for the power wire. If you even think you are going to install fogs then don't, unless you want a healthy job ahead of you when installing fogs, I had to drill a new hole in that area and it liked to killed me even using the right tools.

Chad

I reall only plan on using one driver. I have 1 12" right now on 100 watts and it is more than enough bass for me.

[Chad]

Which W6? The newer ones are pretty deep aren't they?

[RON]

Which W6? The newer ones are pretty deep aren't they?

I need to go look at it? Is 240 a good price?

[Chad]

Dunno about pricing, have not been inteh market for a while :D

I just wonder about the depth of the driver and getting it in that corner without it sticking into the hatch area too far.

[RON]

Dunno about pricing, have not been inteh market for a while :D

I just wonder about the depth of the driver and getting it in that corner without it sticking into the hatch area too far.

when you say corner you mean??? My goal is to still have a functional hatch.

[Chad]

Way back corner, like by the tail lights.

[RON]

Way back corner, like by the tail lights.

Have you heard any thing good about those flat JL subs. I am not set on a JL I just thought why not. What do you think? I am kind of on a budget.

[Chad]

Heard nothing yet, I'm sure they will be tested and reviewed soon.

[RON]

So I have been doing a lot of research on sound deading. And from what I have read:

The system plan on building: No more that 1000 watts (no like 500) to a sub and 400 watts to the front 4. I probably don't need to deaden the whole car like I had planned. And with gas going up keeping any weight out would be good. I do know that I am going to do the areas around the speakers but what other place would you say?

[kaisertj]

So I have been doing a lot of research on sound deading. And from what I have read:

The system plan on building: No more that 1000 watts (no like 500) to a sub and 400 watts to the front 4. I probably don't need to deaden the whole car like I had planned. And with gas going up keeping any weight out would be good. I do know that I am going to do the areas around the speakers but what other place would you say?

I felt the best places to deaden were just the hatch, front doors, and the rear speaker area, but just around the speakers themselves. Im guessing it added 20 or so lbs at most. I also used Fatmat, Dynamat is paying for the name imo. I have the JL 500/1 going to the 10" W7, gain turned about 3/4 way up. Using the 300/4 with the gain all the way up for the fronts, about 2/3 for the rear. Seems like a nice balance since its so easy to drown out the mids and tweets with the sub. Make sure to have your crossovers set up nicely, and plan on spending a few hours tuning for that right sound. Sounds like your gonna have a damn good setup, cant wait to see it all finished!

[Chad]

A deflex pad behind the door speakers does wonders too!

[kaisertj]

A deflex pad behind the door speakers does wonders too!

Are those the foam looking things? Not sure what that is, It help alot?

[Chad]

It's a very "rubbery foam", tough to explain. It's adhered to the inside of the outer door skin.

I did the "holler in the hole" test before and after and it substantially cut down on ringing, which, cuts down considerably on intermod distortion.

[kaisertj]

It's a very "rubbery foam", tough to explain. It's adhered to the inside of the outer door skin.

I did the "holler in the hole" test before and after and it substantially cut down on ringing, which, cuts down considerably on intermod distortion.

Nice. Im actually pulling off my panels soon cause I got a water leak. Where can I get this stuff? Should put it on while its apart.

[Chad]

Nice. Im actually pulling off my panels soon cause I got a water leak. Where can I get this stuff? Should put it on while its apart.

I got mine from madisound when i ordered the first round of drivers, I'll try to find you a source.