I've read a lot of the earlier posts about the K24 engines and am still intrigued about running an all motor K24a2- no supercharger, no turbo etc.
For those that are running the K24a2 what do you think?? What additions like cams etc. wakes them up a little more?
I know the K24a2 is a lower revving engine, but it has a ton of torque in the EP3 chasis. I also know the engine of choice is the K20a2 or K20z1, with or w/o turbo, but what is the consensus now about the all motor K24a2??
A+ really IMO
If you can source a 2006 or later k24a2 you are getting some of the most aggressive NA OEM cams you can find in Hondas (outside the f series).
It doesnt scream into the 9000's like k20a2-z1/2/3's do, but its got tons of torque, 3 lobe vtec that engages around 5000 and responds really well to bolt ons and tuning via kpro.
I would say, the potential for the k24a2 is where it really shines. Initially I got my k24a2 thinking that the mid-range torque was going to satisfy my need for speed. And it does when I'm just doing daily driving, but SOMETIMES, i wish it WOULD "scream into 9000rpms"
This is strictly speaking about an NA k24a2. If you want to gab a little bit about FI, then that seems to be a whole different subject that I dont know anything about.
lets just say the k24a2 is one pretty good sized step up from the k20a3.
as far as waking up the k24a2, I'm contemplating doing the RBC, CAI, and a bigger exhaust. So, youll know as soon as I do.
Formerly known as Plainol2k2si
The majority of swaps going on are K24 swaps, even a lowly stock K24A1 is a HUGE upgrade. Very few people are building K20 shortblocks any longer as there is no replacement for displacement.
Just pop in down in the swap section and you will find alot of info. also post up any questions.
The TSX engine really comes alive with I/H/E along with Kpro of course.
Here is my build and it will spin as high as a stock block A2 can. http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42986
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
another good option is a K24a4 with forged internals, kpro and a k20a2 headswap. I believe you'll save some money this way and maybe put out more power. You could also use a k24a2 head if you wanted to.
Originally Posted by talonXracer
hey talon. Can i ask you? How come there is SOOOO much variety in dyno results pertaining to the RBC? I really want to get it for the k24a2 but am afraid of losing more power that i dont have already.
Formerly known as Plainol2k2si
I would only use the RBC if you are planning on stage 2+ cams. A slightly ported PRB mani would be my choice for the K24A2, I have seen alot more useable torque gains in the midrange with that mani, and still have nice gains up top. A Maxbored TB is a must.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
Hey Talon- I did see this post about the engine you're building when you first posted it. Your short block looks like it's going to be pretty stout when you're finished.
I have read through a lot of the K24 posts and am always interested in member's positive and negative feedback/impressions of the stock K24a2. If I decide to install one in my car, I'd like to keep the a2 pretty much as stock as possible with the help of the K-pro engine management.
It will do fine with the EP3's mani and TB.(I would still consider a Maxbored TB)
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
That seems like a lot of work to fit a PRB manifold onto the a2 head. not to mention the coolant port fix.
I guess the good ol' RBB manifold for the Lazy-Man's win.
Formerly known as Plainol2k2si
You can use the PRB mani and see gains over the RBB.
Doing the coolant port fix takes a whole 15-30 minutes, or use the Hasport adaptor.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I'm assuming when you say F series you're reffering to the oddball F motor in the s2k which has almost nothing in common with the F series as in the accord motors. (although I would love an f20b)
I ran the PRB manifold on my K24a2 and switched to the RBB manifold. The torque was much better with the RBB and the power never dropped off up top.
Coming from someone who has personally tried both, I will never go back to the PRB.
As for the RBC, it's inferior with a basically stock K24a2 but if you do cams etc.. then it will have superior flow.
As for the K24a2, IT ROCKS.
I love the K24A2 its byfar the best bang for buck, the low and mid torque make up for alot instead of having a high reving k20A2. for Daily driving low and mid torque is the BEST!
I would Get the K24A2 and get a modified VTC, different Cams and you would have a VERY VERY awesome car
The thing is that people will tell you that you can't rev the K24. I disagree. I've seen the math on the piston speed, and the acceleration, but I've also seen the rods and bearings that came out of my K24A2 that I was revving up to 8500. The motor can take the revs. I don't care what anyone else says, they can.
Now, it does take some work to make the induction systems (intake and exhaust both) support those kinds of revs, but with the right combination I think it can be done. We are talking aftermarket cams though and I'm not sure the OP is wanting to go that route.
Even as just a straight drop in its a great motor and I would choose it all day long over a K20.:angel:
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