lately the idea of swapping a k20a in my car is becoming more reality now, i was wondering if this motor could pass a ref certification (i had a b16 in an ek that passed) i know the rules about the sensors and all that, but im just wondering if anyone has been successful with this motor. if not, has anyone done a legit swap with something comparable???
from what i know, i think its pretty simple to pass, just make sure you ahve a cat on. but i live in canada but here in vancouver their pretty strict too, but my friend passed with his eg with a ls/vtec in his car.
but why a k20a? those motors are so $$$$$$. Why not buy a k24a1 short block and buy the k20a2 and with the money you save, buy some cams and a 6 speed tranny with lsd. and you'll still have money left over.
caus thats too many numbers and letters, i get confused! no really though im just trying to get ideas on if there are cheaper motors that put out the same/ comparable power.
k20a is a really good motor, i would buy it if it was cheaper but its not lol. i think cheapest way and a quick car, is k24a1 (CRV block) wiht a k20a2 head. get some cams on there and a 6 speed (type r or type s tranny0 with LSD.Originally Posted by rolldic
the k20a costs about 5500-6800 without shipping. dont get me wrong k20a is a GREAT motor, it performs really well but well but a k24 has that nice useable power down low on the rpm. and a k20a you need to rev the shit out of it just to make power.
TQ>>>>HP
but some other people will chime in here and give some better advice, im just saying all this cus thats what like, idk what you like. but i wanna help you so you dont throw away so much money when you get something with more useable power in the city for cheaper.
Go with he K24 motors man, you will save SO MUCH money that you can put into the car. I just put a K24a1 in my 03 ep and man its night a day. I spent a total on the WHOLE swap around $2500, thats new clutch/pressure plate/header/mid pipe/exhaust/shifter. and with the other $2,500-3000 youll save you can go with a head swap, cams, Boost (I prefer S/C)
Or Better yet, best bang for the buck, get a K24a2 (TSX) The best K series motor for the price.
You won't be able to pass that engine through a ref. As soon as they see you're running a JDM ecu, they will send you back. Pretty much the main obstacles are all the sensors required on the intake manifold that the JDM ones don't have and of course the ecu. Since that motor has never been released here, there is no USDM ecu to use. Of course you're only other choice if you go with this is finding a smog station who can do it under the table.
But like everyone has been saying, I'd go with the tsx motor. that you'd be able to get certified. its something i'm seriously considering over the type-s engine.
Can the ECU problem not be fixed by using the type-s ecu with K-Pro? I would think that it would be better to use kpro over a stock type-r ecu anyways... correct me if I'm wrong
ive heard people use the type S ecu. i think you can do that to pass inspection otherwise how do people do it right? you can use the type s ecu, it just wont run right. so idk if you'll pass or not. but someone will clear this up
Your best bet is to get a complete K20A2 w/6spd and slide that in. Here in NY they are very strict, just like Cali for the most part, and my K20A2 swap passed with no trickery at all. Even now, I can pass in NY without any trickery, even a sniffer test.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I'm not 100% if you can or cannot use the type-s ecu, although it does sound like it could work. but you may be right, if you run the type-s ecu, you run the possibility of the engine not running correctly. you would have to make sure it doesn't throw any CEL codes, and you also have to worry about any timing issues. Believe me, these ref guys check every little thing. I think that once they look at the engine code and see that there never was a counter part (i.e. JDM B18c and USDM B18c5) here in the US they will tell you that your engine set up is illegal.
I'm sure the guys over on the K20 forum would be very knowledgeable on this so you might wanna browse over their threads.
well there is that guy with the 06-07 civic lx, with a k20a, he's running the type S ecu but he said that its not running its full potential. but yeh, i have no idea how these things work, sounds pretty strict. they dont even check your motor here. just your cat. the funny thing is, you can get insurance without even getting the car inspected, you just tell them that you got it inspected. they dont ask for any papers.
kpro has the k20a calibrations.. it will run fine.i know cause i do it.
there it is, I guess it does work.kpro has the k20a calibrations.. it will run fine.
However, i still feel that once they look at your engine code they will stop the inspection. I know they even scan that serial code sticker on the engines. like i said....pretty tuff
I have a K20A and Im using ep3 ecu with K-Pro and EP3 Harness so all the sensors are attached except for that reverse lockout function. I have it for 2 years now and motor is still running strong.
ok so what motors have people gotten BAR certified? meaning you went to a referee and the motor is able to be smogged legit.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks